PDA

View Full Version : Cleaning Fluid Test



mildot
30-10-2013, 00:51
I have so many cleaning fluids and every one is meant to be the best on the market!!!!! well I decided to do a simple test.
I put a bullet into different pot for each of the cleaning fluids, Then added the fluids as labelled. In the 1st pic the fluid was left for 5mins...
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/516/cnaj.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/10/cnaj.jpg/)


The 2nd pic is 11/2hrs later. The big pot is Forest Bore Foam after 20mins.... I forgot to do that one from the start.


http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/2336/cs7h.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/21/cs7h.jpg/)



As you can see the wipe out & accelerator starts removing copper almost instantly.
The Forest Bore Foam is almost as quick.
The rest shows no signs of removing copper.
the eco gun oil is a dark green fluid and there was no change in colour.

I repeat this is a simple test and therefore not scientific.

Redmist
30-10-2013, 01:08
Ive found that Wipe Out with Accelorator is the best cleaner.

Ive tried CR2, I like it, but it doesnt work as well as WO.

Ive tried most products, Wipe Out is the one that works for me and has done for the last two years, im running several rifles, including a couple of F Class "race guns", they need to be 100% clean.

When I was in the states in August for a comp, with several others, we found that some of the products taken didnt clean as well as they did in the UK - probably down to the heat and heavier fouling experienced.

Wipe Out for me...

brock and norris
30-10-2013, 09:31
Whe I was working at the Rifle Store in Hodnet Ten Years ago we carried out similar tests. Wipe out/patch out/accelerator was not available then. At the time the clear winner was KG 12 that would strip a 2pence piece back to the steel disc over night. We still use KG products and like them very much indeed. We also use wipe out for 95% of our cleaning work and have found it truly excellent. Barnes CR2 is very similar to Sweets 7.62 and G96 copper solvent as it needs to be agitated using a nylon brush to get oxygen into the solvent to get it to work to its maximum potential . All three of those solvents should not be left in the bore for more than ten minutes, and require oil back in the bore afterwards.
The foam cleaners we find a little messy and wasteful bearing in mind the amount of rifles we clean during the course of a week Yours respectfully Mike Norris Brock and Norris custom rifles

enfieldspares
30-10-2013, 13:58
I am very interested in what was left UNSAID in the Brck and Norris response regarding the new style 2p pieces. Was the steel underneath the copper wash on that coin affected at all by the overnight exposure to the KG12...and...if not where can I get KG12 and what do I ask for?

Hornet 6
30-10-2013, 19:38
where can I get KG12 and what do I ask for?
You ask for KG12, you can get it from here http://www.tacfiresystems.co.uk/store/cleaning-accessories/kg-cleaning-products/
(http://www.tacfiresystems.co.uk/store/cleaning-accessories/kg-cleaning-products/)I like it, but find it works much better after cleaning any carbon fouling out first.

Neil. :)

brock and norris
01-11-2013, 17:02
I am very interested in what was left UNSAID in the Brck and Norris response regarding the new style 2p pieces. Was the steel underneath the copper wash on that coin affected at all by the overnight exposure to the KG12...and...if not where can I get KG12 and what do I ask for?

Nothing Hidden or implied by omission. The steel was unaffected and having used it on many, many barrels......... including my own! I have no reservation in recommending it as a great solvent. It does however require a slightly different methodology to other solvents.Using a patch run the wet patch slowly through the bore, IE . thirty seconds from chamber to muzzle and then thirty seconds back . fouling will be a brown colouration on the patch. Three or four patches usually deals with most everyday copper fouling. You can leave the bore wet overnight with no issues what so ever. For a more aggressive application one can scrub using a nylon brush.
yours respectfully Mike Norris Brock and Norris Custom Rifles

dvbookshop
01-11-2013, 17:19
Getting it to soak into a patch is easier said than done; it has amazing surface tension and runs right off fabrics in globules.

Hornet 6
01-11-2013, 19:38
Getting it to soak into a patch is easier said than done; it has amazing surface tension and runs right off fabrics in globules.

Really, KG12 seems to soak into any patch I have tried easily.

Neil. :)

brock and norris
02-11-2013, 08:34
Getting it to soak into a patch is easier said than done; it has amazing surface tension and runs right off fabrics in globules.

Use cotton flannel not cotton twill and push the patch onto to spout of the bottle . the solvent , when you gently squeeze the bottle will be taken into the patch. after the initial absorption you will find that the patch absorbs the kg 12 readily.

jimmy milnes
02-11-2013, 11:09
Use cotton flannel not cotton twill and push the patch onto to spout of the bottle . the solvent , when you gently squeeze the bottle will be taken into the patch. after the initial absorption you will find that the patch absorbs the kg 12 readily.

Hi B&R
Have you ever heard of using kroil to loosen the copper before using a stripper and if so what are your thoughts please
Regards
Jimmy

brock and norris
02-11-2013, 11:47
Hi B&R
Have you ever heard of using kroil to loosen the copper before using a stripper and if so what are your thoughts please
Regards
Jimmy
Hi there Jimmy. Yes indeed Kroil was mixed with shooters choice or butch's bore shine and seemed to work well especially when cleaning using moly coated bullets. We used to use kroil as a very light finishing oil passed through the bores before short term storage ie a week or so .It is a very light penetrating oil that seemed to be very good at loosening general crud and non metallic / powder fouling. However I never saw any real evidence that it loosened copper fouling. I hope that anwers your question ,.Yours respectfully Mike Norris Brock and Norris Custom Rifles

Yorkie
02-11-2013, 11:59
Montana Extreme is the most effective Bore Solvent i have used and their Copper Killer if you can find it is very effective. Both are Barrel safe according to the Manufacterer. BUT they stink to high Heaven so not a good idea to use them Indoors.

Yorkie.

achosenman
02-11-2013, 12:05
I am sat here waiting for Wipe out to do it's thing. Coming from KG products I'm not impressed that much. Accelerator doesn't seem to do much either.

I always put a bore scope down the barrel after cleaning to check and it doesn't lie. IMHO nothing cleans like KG...period.

I'm only sticking with it until it's used up, then back to KG for me.

ATB

6.5rem700
02-11-2013, 12:17
I use KG1 [carbon] and KG12 ]copper] they work very well,
​ AND ive started using CR2 which is as good as the KG stuff ,if not better as its
2 in 1

caorach
02-11-2013, 14:57
I tried KG12 and it was amazing at removing copper. Unfortunately it then took a lot of shooting to get the rifle to group in a relaible manner again :-) The rifle shoots nearly anything well, is very reliable and will shoot much better than I ever well but KG12 really messed with my head. Great stuff for the copper though, no question.

achosenman
02-11-2013, 15:33
I tried KG12 and it was amazing at removing copper. Unfortunately it then took a lot of shooting to get the rifle to group in a relaible manner again :-) The rifle shoots nearly anything well, is very reliable and will shoot much better than I ever well but KG12 really messed with my head. Great stuff for the copper though, no question.

I don't clean that deep TBH. I agree if you take it back to shiny metal that is too clean. I will reduce the carbon or copper if that is the problem. Most times I run a patch with KG2 through for a couple of strokes making sure to not fully exit the crown. This leaves a bit of copper etc so I don't have to settle the barrel again.

For me first shot, cold bore is what counts.

ATB

brock and norris
03-11-2013, 10:40
I tried KG12 and it was amazing at removing copper. Unfortunately it then took a lot of shooting to get the rifle to group in a relaible manner again :-) The rifle shoots nearly anything well, is very reliable and will shoot much better than I ever well but KG12 really messed with my head. Great stuff for the copper though, no question.

Good morning Gents, We found, and it is the recommendation of KG that the cleaning process should be finished with an oiled patch through the bore. The KG 12 does leave the bore squeaky clean with little or no lubricity in it. The very fine oil finish gave similar results to having fired a conditioning shot and from our tests the first round went into the group. I believe that this oil finish duplicates the slight lubrication effect of the powder fouling in the bore. It must be stated that the oil was a very fine application and it was essential that the chamber was dry to avoid high pressures. Yours respectfully Mike Norris Brock and Norris Custom Rifles

Little Jon
12-11-2013, 15:34
Hoppes elite- copper terminator works very well with a good brush scrubbing also.

mildot
17-11-2013, 19:02
ive just had my eyes opened. I used what I thought was the best stuff I had accelerator and wipe out, I then tried some boretech and got loads of patches out with dark blue on!!!!
Im now converted to bore tech...

Jager SA
19-11-2013, 18:06
I still use shooters choice and Kroil, but still use the Kg range. That said I never really go to town on cleaning rifles as such, however, the products do produce the results and the Kroil is good for leaving in the bore after your cleaning. I will say though, chromoly needs a bit more care over stainless having played around with different barrel metals.

Redmist
20-11-2013, 08:44
ive just had my eyes opened. I used what I thought was the best stuff I had accelerator and wipe out, I then tried some boretech and got loads of patches out with dark blue on!!!!
Im now converted to bore tech...


Are you using brass jags,,

Ive swapped to alloy ones - brass give false readings.


Boretech products very good,,,,, as good as Wipe Out

jungle_re
20-11-2013, 09:13
ive just had my eyes opened. I used what I thought was the best stuff I had accelerator and wipe out, I then tried some boretech and got loads of patches out with dark blue on!!!!
Im now converted to bore tech...

:rofl:
It certainly didn't hamper your shooting one of the funniest things I've watched in a while.
id love to know why some barrels need the cooper fouling to shoot yet others are far better completely clean. It takes over 20 shots after a full copper removal for my tikka to shoot as well as it can again.

this was not the jag, same jag was cleaned with solvent after use and the wipeout plus accelerator didn't produce the blue. On the day the bore tech knocked it into a cocked hat, though I'm wondering if temp had an issue as it was bloody freezing!

The tramp
20-11-2013, 14:39
:rofl:
It certainly didn't hamper your shooting one of the funniest things I've watched in a while.
id love to know why some barrels need the cooper fouling to shoot yet others are far better completely clean. It takes over 20 shots after a full copper removal for my tikka to shoot as well as it can again.

this was not the jag, same jag was cleaned with solvent after use and the wipeout plus accelerator didn't produce the blue. On the day the bore tech knocked it into a cocked hat, though I'm wondering if temp had an issue as it was bloody freezing!
It wasn't freezing !! Chilly, and getting close, but not quite freezing. Besides, it was probably cleaning out the 'snipers aid' ;)

​Pete (SD)

mildot
21-11-2013, 00:57
Are you using brass jags,,

Ive swapped to alloy ones - brass give false readings.


Boretech products very good,,,,, as good as Wipe Out

I was using a brass jag! I was shocked as I had cleaned the rifle well with wipe out & accelerator. I thought I would try a mates boretech and I was surprised how much came out! after a couple of patches the blue disappeared.

Jungle RE
I was hoping I hadn't over cleaned! but that wasn't the case. now if I had used more sniper aid it could have been a different story.....

Dalua
21-11-2013, 08:27
I'd love to know why some barrels need the cooper fouling to shoot yet others are far better completely clean. It takes over 20 shots after a full copper removal for my tikka to shoot as well as it can again.

The answer to that question as far as my first (and s/h) stalking-rifle went was apparently that the barrel was hideously pitted by the first owner's neglect, and needed those pits to be smeared full of copper to smooth them out and get it back to some semblance of accuracy. It has since been rebarrelled, and is like all my c/f rifles put away cleaned every time.

My cleaning regime is Forrest foam and patches until no more blue, alone if just a couple of rounds fired: or if after more shots, a scrub with KG1 and then the foam.

I concur that aluminiun jags are a valuable bit of kit!

jungle_re
26-11-2013, 15:56
It wasn't freezing !! Chilly, and getting close, but not quite freezing. Besides, it was probably cleaning out the 'snipers aid' ;)

​Pete (SD)

fairly sure yours melted out Pete judging by the flame :lol:
And no question that the wipe across the crown was clean after an overnight saturation of Sniper Aid!

Christian.H
01-12-2013, 14:20
Interesting test