Ruger 10/22 tweaks

I have recently carried out some tweaks on my basic 10/22 they are listed below with any links and detales of ant lubes used.
I stripped and degreased the reciver and bolt then used Dow Corning Molykote (D-321R anti-friction spray coating Art. No. 4045681 NSN 9150-99-2250519). I coated the reciver and all the bolt components. This has greatly reduced the fouling caused by powder residue getting stuck to oil in the reciver and the action is smoother.
I carried out the following: http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251177
It involves polishing various components within the trigger group. I used 3 various grades of micro-mesh to achive good results. When reassembling the trigger group I gave all points of wear or movement a thin coating of Dow Corning Molykote G-n metal assembly paste, I used this sparingly so as to reduce fouling from powder residue. This has made the action of the rifle smoother and far less prone to stoppages.
It hasn't reduced the pull weight of the trigger as no angles on sears were effected by polishing. I will in time get a target sear and hammerand , polish them before fitting.
I hope that this may help anyone that may be thinking of spending money on their rifle, try some other things before parting with your hard earned cash.
 
Craig there's a place in Ifracombe called Rude Fat Dog
that does custom work on 10/22s give them a call they may be able to offer some advice on how to sort your trigger.

Brian
 
Craig there's a place in Ifracombe called Rude Fat Dog
that does custom work on 10/22s give them a call they may be able to offer some advice on how to sort your trigger.

Brian

I've heard of them and when I get some funds sorted out I'll call them. I only want to get the minumum parts that I need to sort it out. I'm going to go and see the armourers here and use some of their kit to see how heavy the trigger is now. I'm nbot going to let them loose with the rifle though.
 
You mean "plumbers" not armourers to use correct parlance.

Well if we're going to go down that road............................being a fairy.............I know more about small arms than the knuckle dragging "expert" plumber (Ex= Once was; Spert= A drip under pressure).
 
I'm out of touch - is fairy the latest parlance for a Flem :)

Without armourers the RAF would only be another second rate budget airline.
 
I'm out of touch - is fairy the latest parlance for a Flem :)

Without armourers the RAF would only be another second rate budget airline.

A fairy is the combination of Nav Inst, Comms, and Radar.

Your right there, but you don't have to be clever to do bomb on -----bomb off or load bullets. Ejection seats are a nice touch though

Lets face it though the RAF is little more than a really good flying club with it's own engineers and the added advantage of things that go BANG!
 
Craig I don't know about really good flying club because at least with a flying club they generally turn up, the RAf in my experience usually have technical problems and abort the flight.:D

Your right about not letting the plumbers loose on your 10/22, I certainly wouldn't as most don't have any real knowledge about small arms. Having owned a 10/22 previously, I took the route of spending as little as possible on it and doing most of the alterations myself. It's not too difficult to improve the trigger and it's quite simple to make the modification for auto bolt release which is probably the best modification you can make. Don't be taken in by all the accesories and add ons available very few actually improve how it shoots but they make the retailers a fortune.
I use the old military addage that "a rifle should be like a good soldier - spotlessly clean and lightly oiled". I found this particullarly true with regard to the 10/22, too much oil collects dust, dirt and crud and clogs up the system.
 
I am not a 10/22 fan but I do have one, but it does live in Montana, and it is scarily accurate. It has had extensive work done to it, Muir and I were sitting at his dining table one evening, when most of this got done. I removed the trigger, which was standard Ruger and required the strength of Hercules to pull it, and then handed it to Muir to stone the sear (well he is good at that sort of thing) then he replaced the trigger, well if you have a gunsmith to hand it is a waste not to use him :). I then completed what other work could be done while were sitting there, I fitted the scope. The scope is worth mentioning, it is a Simmonds 8 point, it cost a mighty $38 in a gun store in Billings but I can't remember where, more about that later. The next day I completed the "customisation" that is to say I loaded it and sighted the scope in.

Having completed the customisation I settled at the bench on the 50 yard range, got a good grip and cheek weld then fired off all 10 just as fast as was possible whilst still maintaining aim, this produced a ragged one hole group, I did it a couple more times just to make sure, then Muir did it so it was no fluke.

Now to put it to work, we were testing some pre production 22 ammo for Aquila, that little gun accounted for an untold amount of prairie dogs at some indecent ranges. Now to sing the praises of the scope, both it and the rifle were used and abused big time. The combination was dropped more times than I can remember and bears the scars, the scope is scratched, dented and generally unloved but, it never once lost it's zero. It's one of those cheap and cheerful things that just works, well this particular specimen anyway.

So that's what you need to fettle your gun, a dining table, a cheap scope, pre-production ammo Oh and a gunsmith :D

John
 
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OK 10/22 fans, I have one of these, and I know that a lot of semi autos don't like subsonic ammo,my 10/22 will only cycle RWS without a problem all other brands jam, no problem with normal ammo, only subs. but I like subsonic for rabbiting
with spotlight, local gun shop no longer stocking RWS, is this just something I have to live with or does anyone no any tweaks to improve cycling.
 
BT: The first feeding tweak is to try a new magazine. If that fails, disassemble the magazine and polish the metal feed insert. Make sure the magazine internals are clean. You can find instructions on-line for Ruger magazine disassembly. It just takes an Allan (hex) wrench.~Muir
 
I am not a 10/22 fan but I do have one, but it does live in Montana, and it is scarily accurate. It has had extensive work done to it, Muir and I were sitting at his dining table one evening, when most of this got done. I removed the trigger, which was standard Ruger and required the strength of Hercules to pull it, and then handed it to Muir to stone the sear (well he is good at that sort of thing) then he replaced the trigger, well if you have a gunsmith to hand it is a waste not to use him :). I then completed what other work could be done while were sitting there, I fitted the scope. The scope is worth mentioning, it is a Simmonds 8 point, it cost a mighty $38 in a gun store in Billings but I can't remember where, more about that later. The next day I completed the "customisation" that is to say I loaded it and sighted the scope in.

Having completed the customisation I settled at the bench on the 50 yard range, got a good grip and cheek weld then fired off all 10 just as fast as was possible whilst still maintaining aim, this produced a ragged one hole group, I did it a couple more times just to make sure, then Muir did it so it was no fluke.

Now to put it to work, we were testing some pre production 22 ammo for Aquila, that little gun accounted for an untold amount of prairie dogs at some indecent ranges. Now to sing the praises of the scope, both it and the rifle were used and abused big time. The combination was dropped more times than I can remember and bears the scars, the scope is scratched, dented and generally unloved but, it never once lost it's zero. It's one of those cheap and cheerful things that just works, well this particular specimen anyway.

So that's what you need to fettle your gun, a dining table, a cheap scope, pre-production ammo Oh and a gunsmith :D

John
John1022group.jpg

Like this?? (of course I saved it!)

I'd like to mention that if your 10/22 has a barrel band, ditch it, or cut the very top off leaving the barrel free from it but just the "hooks" left to hang onto the wood. John's is a 10/22 rifle with a 20" barrel and no band.He forgot to mention that we also adjusted the bedding a bit. It is a shooter, though.~Muir
 
BT: The first feeding tweak is to try a new magazine. If that fails, disassemble the magazine and polish the metal feed insert. Make sure the magazine internals are clean. You can find instructions on-line for Ruger magazine disassembly. It just takes an Allan (hex) wrench.~Muir

Thanks a lot,will do as you say and see how it goes.
ATB Jim
 
OK 10/22 fans, I have one of these, and I know that a lot of semi autos don't like subsonic ammo,my 10/22 will only cycle RWS without a problem all other brands jam, no problem with normal ammo, only subs. but I like subsonic for rabbiting
with spotlight, local gun shop no longer stocking RWS, is this just something I have to live with or does anyone no any tweaks to improve cycling.

Polishing the relevent parts of the trigger group will help so will grinding a beval on the rear of the bolt, but that would have been a step too far for me. I think the trick for yours would be to do what you feel will lighten the pressure needed to cock it. There are loads of ideas on these 2:
http://gunsandfun.com/
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/

I would be careful about what I did though, I haven't ground the bolt and don't feel I need to with mine. Polishing worked a treat, but I have never had any trouble with subs though.

If you have any trouble or advise PM me and I'll try and help.

Craig I don't know about really good flying club because at least with a flying club they generally turn up, the RAf in my experience usually have technical problems and abort the flight.:D Mainly because the powers that be don't get us the parts that we need to fix the bloody things. We more often than not know what's bust, but don't have a bit to fix it with. Crap Eh?

Your right about not letting the plumbers loose on your 10/22, I certainly wouldn't as most don't have any real knowledge about small arms. Having owned a 10/22 previously, I took the route of spending as little as possible on it and doing most of the alterations myself. It's not too difficult to improve the trigger and it's quite simple to make the modification for auto bolt release which is probably the best modification you can make. Don't be taken in by all the accesories and add ons available very few actually improve how it shoots but they make the retailers a fortune.
I use the old military addage that "a rifle should be like a good soldier - spotlessly clean and lightly oiled". I found this particullarly true with regard to the 10/22, too much oil collects dust, dirt and crud and clogs up the system. That's where the molykote is great, nothing sticks to it.

I was out the other night with my 17HMR and it's the first time it's been playing the game. I was impressed. going to go out later in the week with the 10/22 for some NVG bunny snotting.
 
Polishing the relevent parts of the trigger group will help so will grinding a beval on the rear of the bolt, but that would have been a step too far for me. I think the trick for yours would be to do what you feel will lighten the pressure needed to cock it. There are loads of ideas on these 2:
http://gunsandfun.com/
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/

I would be careful about what I did though, I haven't ground the bolt and don't feel I need to with mine. Polishing worked a treat, but I have never had any trouble with subs though.

If you have any trouble or advise PM me and I'll try and help.



I was out the other night with my 17HMR and it's the first time it's been playing the game. I was impressed. going to go out later in the week with the 10/22 for some NVG bunny snotting.

Thanks Craig, will start wirh Muir's suggestion and take it from there.
 
Muir, followed your advice,there was quite a bit of wax in the mag, fired off mag of Winchester subsonic as quick as I could reloaded and did the same again did not jam once, normally it would jam every third or fourth shot, so it would
appear that the problem is fixed.


Thank you.

Craig, had a look at the links you posted, some interesting stuff there, however took Muirs advice on cleaning up the mag as a starting point, and it seems to have solved the problem.
Thanks
 
i found when i had mine the best ammo was cci subs,followed by winchester. rws is noted for been heavily coated in wax and clogging up 10-22s very quickly!... the mags like Muir has said fouls just like the action...most owners often clean the action and over look the magazine..(as i did when i first bought one!) i was lucky when i bought mine to be in a rifle club/RFD where almost everyone had one in some shape or form and could see or try a 10-22 with various modifications. some very expensive! my own conclusions were that if ever i needed to modify mine i could tweak the parts that were in it to do the job.(rather than buy tweaked parts!)one example is to do away with the bolt stop,you could buy a new modified part....or use a file and 10 Min's of your time!! this was the only modification i wanted to do,but never got around too it,....so i left it as it was out of the box new stainless/synthetic 10-22 cleaned properly as per owners manual (if you haven't got one download it, the spring tension in the mag is also important!) it very rarely jammed both with target use and in the Field! by the way if you need any parts look at ebay:eek: you could just about build one:norty:
 
Craig, had a look at the links you posted, some interesting stuff there, however took Muirs advice on cleaning up the mag as a starting point, and it seems to have solved the problem.
Thanks

I have found that it's worth starting with the simple and cheap things before you spend lote of money.
 
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