Pulling on a lead

User00004

Well-Known Member
I have a Pet dog, that I'll take stalking if I'm by myself, but because he is on the lead he pulls how can I stop this.

Thanks

TJ
 
TJ,

Try a Halti - you'll find them in shops and on the net. It leads the dog by pulling the muzzle round, so they have to change direction. Worked on my Ridgeback in short shrift. The other thing to do is to take the dog for a walk and consistently change direction. The dog will learn that he needs to follow you (at the moment he's trying to be the leader) and will start to walk on a slack lead. Lots of encouragement and patience should sort this out.
I know of some that have had success with pinch collars too, but I think the Halti is the way to go.

What dog?

E t R
 
I walk y dog when training with a small green garden cane in my hand the same hand i am holding the lead in if the dog walks passed my knee the cane moves swiflty across his nose and some time just in thin air to remind him. It took about 4 good long walks before the message sunk in and he is now 11 and will walk to heal with no encouragement. ps i dont have the stick or the lead any more.:lol:
 
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Im going to go against the grain here slightly.

If Im training a dog, no matter what age or breed I usually just give a good yark (and I mean a good one)on the lead when they start to pull, accompanied with the command "HEEL". My last lab pup was "HEELING" without a lead in 20 minutes.

Haltis are good at stopping them pulling on the lead but I feel they are a preventer rather than a cure.
 
I agree with all of the replies so far, Halti, stick in front of nose and good yank. Only thing I would add is this, if you can, treat the dog training and stalking with the dog as seperate tasks. HPR's are quite difficult to get to heel behind your leg as they always want to be a nose length in front for scenting, nose length becomes head length becomes dog length etc. JC
 
My GSP used to pull like mad when he was a younger pup. I tried the good yank etc and it made a difference for about 20 mins till he would forget about it and started pulling again. This went on for months until one day I grabbed him by the top of his back leg bbt hooking my hand around it and lifting him up a bit and pulling him back. I was quite gentle with this and it didn't hurt him in the slightest, but he hates it and it only took a couple of goes to stop him pulling and have him heeling even without a lead reasonably well!

Gez
 
I train my dogs by dan's method and I also have them walkin just in front so they help scenting deer in front,JC is correct some dogs will try and take the pee but if you incorporate a slap on the thigh into the training when saying heel they soon get used to comin back to heel
Take it slow,starting with the lead first,after dog not pulling just let the lead drop onto ground if dog persists in going forward too far,stand on lead,then progress to no lead once dog stops going too far forward
Some breeds heel much better than others
Never had no problems with labs(even headstrong ones)using this method
Cheers
 
I walk y dog when training with a small green garden cane in my hand the same hand i am holding the lead in if the dog walks passed my knee the cane moves swiflty across his nose and some time just in thin air to remind him. It took about 4 good long walks before the message sunk in and he is now 11 and will walk to heal with no encouragement. ps i dont have the stick or the lead any more.:lol:

Plus one on that except I will use a whippy little broken fishing rod,cutting the air with a "swish" in front of them makes them take notice.
 
Hi
Its all about timing.
think of an imaginary line where you want your dog to walk, as soon as the dogs nose crosses this line give a sharp yank on the lead but to the side not straight back.this snaps the dog out of what it is thinking and gets it to concentrate on you.then follow up with the word heal or what ever command you are using and at first you might have to put the dog back where you want him/her to be.
don't forget the art is in the timing and as soon as he/she crosses the imaginary line yank that lead to one side (this unbalances the dog and gets his/her attention) and the word heal.
They soon get the message.
Constancy and timing are the key words here. when walking your dog IE training your dog have your mind 100% on the dog. not chatting to a mate or talking on the phone, or your timing and consistency will be out and the dog will get the wrong message.
the stick one works as well but i normally use this one for heal work wile not on the lead.
ATB
Cam
 
So the command get back you Barstw=ewrd before i brake yaneck you useless lump of Sh it while still getting dragged down the road with aDOG ON A ZIP ZIP DONT REALLY WORK THEN HA:lol:
 
Im going to go against the grain here slightly.

If Im training a dog, no matter what age or breed I usually just give a good yark (and I mean a good one)on the lead when they start to pull, accompanied with the command "HEEL". My last lab pup was "HEELING" without a lead in 20 minutes.

Haltis are good at stopping them pulling on the lead but I feel they are a preventer rather than a cure.

This is one method I do use , but in fairness I don't think Dan has put the procedure across in a way that really relates to how it should be executed
yanking back in any ole manner will cause harm to the dog's neck , so not exceptable
It should be done in a controlled manner and the force of the yank should also be done at an exceptable point and force so it can be delivered where the whole of the dogs body bares the brunt not just the head and neck
It makes a difference
Halti's are good if you only ever intend to hav the dog on a lead , as very few dogs relate to what a halti is trying acheive once the halti is taken off
long leashes are a good training aid and dogs soon learn that they are still under some sort of controll when still allowed 5 metres of grace
using a long leash and changing directions soon teaches a dog to turn direction when you do as it runs out of leash to wander on
but the most important info here TJ
Is about the type of dog you are talking about and what age and training it has had prior to you taking it on
 
Very valid point Stone,I presumed it was a pup:doh:I also always try an get dogs attention when doing heelwork with the "yank",in time they look round to you.When deer are in front they don't though,still at heel though,so my method works for me,then again my dogs get a lot of work,experience helps:thumb:
 
Another thing no one has mentioned but mibee taking it for granted is type of lead, ie a slip lead so it is slack but tightens jist before the 'yank' and slakens again (i'm sure u ken the proper way to put it on, ring on bottom side) U can also buy the chain choker type for consistant pullers they will hear the noise of chain tightening and come back to position before u even pull it. I tend to try and turn right (for heeling on left) 180 as soon as the dog go's to far in front ansd keep doing it. Also doing zig zags and constant turning as well as slowing down/speeding up. Slowing down really makes them concentrate. Give the dog PLENTY of praise but ONLY when in the right position (ie dinae say heel if the dog isnae actually in the position u describe as heel until it kens wot/where it's meant to mean), the more praise the better even clapping head rubbing ears so the best place to be is by ur side

U can also jist give a very quick sudden jerk, i jerk down and in and not jst back the idea is more to get the dog to focus than actually pull him back into position. Dinae get invoved in a tug o war wi it, it will get used to that and jist expect that as normal. Either slack or sudden jerk no inbetween

The most important thing is like others have said is decide where u want it to walk and be consistant. It's no good making it walk there 1 day and allowed to walk infront the next then gets a row on the 3rd day, it jist confuses it.
 
I personally don't like yanking on the lead, if the dog pulls then she brings it on her self and will hopefully associate her choking with her actions, rather than trying to twig why you are yanking her. Plus they say its not good for there necks.

I taught our lab to heel really easily, every day when out on a walk or just in the house I'd pull out a treat and hold it down straight by my side and as soon as she was beside me I'd say heel. I built this up over a few days and weeks, gradually increasing the amount of time I held onto the tip bit to hold the dog at my side for longer. Just once or twice a day I did this. Then over time I would just put my hand by my side and say heel, she'd come and walk beside me then I'd give her the treat. I controlled her attempted flights by hooking my hand quickly in front of her back leg as she made a run for it, really gently though. See's to have worked well, Keeping a short lead helps well too.

Each dog is different though, mine responds extremely well to food! All ways reward and try not to punish unless it is the only option (i.e. thick).
 
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All dogs are different,even within a litter,the only time I feed a treat is when they find a deer
More sensitive types heel better than headstrong ones
however where deer are concerned I would rather reel a dog back than have it behind you,you then know the dog has a bit of go about it
For myself I would not try and give the dog a treat,when they find a deer that's when they get a treat,there's many a way to skin a cat though!If it works,fine,just like mine to know they have done well when given a treat,not constantly feeding them to stay at heel which a well bred dog should do no probs anyway
As I said earlier,I don't like them welded to my heel,body length in front;back end in line with me,nose in front indicating,different dogs=different methods
A headstrong dog respects you that bit more if you give it a jerk rather than feed him food,a sensitive one may start disliking you,read your dog.
 
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All dogs are different,even within a litter,the only time I feed a treat is when they find a deer
More sensitive types heel better than headstrong ones
however where deer are concerned I would rather reel a dog back than have it behind you,you then know the dog has a bit of go about it
For myself I would not try and give the dog a treat,when they find a deer that's when they get a treat,there's many a way to skin a cat though!If it works,fine,just like mine to know they have done well when given a treat,not constantly feeding them to stay at heel which a well bred dog should do no probs anyway
As I said earlier,I don't like them welded to my heel,body length in front;back end in line with me,nose in front indicating,different dogs=different methods
A headstrong dog respects you that bit more if you give it a jerk rather than feed him food,a sensitive one may start disliking you,read your dog.

Read your dog, its so true.

I should have mentioned I weaned mine off treats for the large part as she developed and reward her by showing her I'm pleased.

Do you reward the dog with a piece of the offal? I'm going to go that route unless I here different.
 
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