Tips for dog training please.

Eyefor

Well-Known Member
My 2yrs 8 month old cocker bitch is a great dog far beyond my expectation.

She enthusiastically retrieves, quarters, flushes, waits, stops / drops to whistle, returns every time to the whistle and heels perfectly - off the lead. But put a lead on her - either a slip lead or a muzzle type - and she pulls like buggery. It's as of she doesn't understand the word!

Off lead she will walk to heel for long distances without repeat commands, but on the lead I'm getting a bit frustrated and I don't want to lose my patience with her because that will undoubtedly be counter productive.

We've tried treats, different leads, sticks held just in front of her, short leads, long leads, separate (non-routine daily walk times) walks - everything we can think of but all without any signs of improvement.

I'm really grateful for the excellence in all the important matters but any suggestions to get my dog to heel on the lead (apart from get a labrador) will be really appreciated.

Thanks.
 
does she wear a collar normally? may just be the strange feel on her neck if not, so maybe try a collar for a bit to get her used to it. Alternatively, use a slip lead, put it on her then drape it round her neck without you holding it and walk her to heel with that - a sort of halfway house, lead on but no pressure on it to get her used to it.

S
 
My old springer was the same.....on a lead he'd pull like a train. It was like those blokes on 'strongest man in the world' hauling a truck along. We tried all sorts, and the best option was a lead that also went over his nose - that was about the only thing that made a difference. I'm sure that my left arm is now 2" longer than my right thanks to him.....
 
have the same problem with a 4m old puppy!
considered a Halti but am not going down that route yet. too early but suspect that is what will be happening!
 
I've got a Lab (I know!) that does it. He knows what to do and will reign back when told, but he's obviously got the memory of a goldfish where this is concerned and will soon revert to type. Not funny if you've got pockets full of cartridges, a shotgun over your shoulder, a stick in your hand and a muddy sloping gate entrance to negotiate.

It's just enthusiasm I know, that's the way he is, but I will persist and he will get the message.....
 
If you have ever seen the forces train there dogs you may feel that it is a little cruel but it works. Strong choker chain lead and every time the dogs pull they drag with all there might dragging the dog behind them. After a couple of times they soon stop.
 
When you want to start sorting the problem, let the dog run a bit before putting it on the lead.
Don't put on the lead & immediately start yomping - stand still & get him to sit for a while by your side with the lead on loosely. After a bit move a couple of steps so he has to get up & follow you - then make him sit again & wait for your command.
Don't ever let a dog drag on the lead. As soon as it starts to pull give it a jerk back. & a quick repremand (not a great bollocking) so he knows he has done wrong - he will want to please & won't like being scolded too much. He will soon learn.
A chain lead is good for this as it makes a sound that also helps grab the dog's attention & is a bit heavier giving a sharper shock.
One trick I've found is to walk with the dog on a short almost vertical lead. To get the dog close in to you it is useful to take the lead up round your back & over your shoulder (opposite side to dog). That way the dog is pulling against your back - not your arm -- much more comfortable. Keep the dog close & at your side rather than out front - he then interacts more with you.
A long lead allows the dog to pull (husky syndrome). If the pull is upwards, any drag tends to lift the dog's head & unweight his feet giving you more control.
As you walk keep changing direction without warning him - that way he will learn to watch you & follow your lead.
Also if you concentrate on the dog & pay too much heed to it, it will pick up on that & interpret it as a way of getting your attention & want to play up more. - If you are a bit more detatched & appear unconcerned the dog will be calmer & more likely to heel better.

Good luck.

Ian
 
I had the same problem with my dog.

I am assuming that you walk with the dog on your left. If so, then keep the dog on a fairly short lead (use a slip lead, not a lead + collar), and every time the dog pulls ahead then turn left into the dog. Effectively you're cutting across her.

You may spend some time walking round in circles but eventually she will get the idea that if she pulls then she doesn't go where she wants to. It may take some time.

If you walk with the dog on your right then turn right into the dog.

This works best on fairly flat and smooth terrain. Best to avoid ploughed fields!

Good luck
 
100% agree with the above ,choose a clear open space where you don,t have to worry about going a--- over t-- , put the dog on a check/slip lead and walk to heel, slip lead should be high under dogs chin, then constantley change direction turning right ,left and about turn after only a few steps, which you should very, so the dog can not predict your next movement ,within a few sessions dog will be on your left knee and watching you to see what direction you are going next, walking in straight line will cause a young dog to pull ahead.
 
Try using a slip lead but instead of just putting it around the dogs neck, take a loop from under her neck and twist it to make a figure of 8. Put the front loop over hr nose. Its normally really effective and stops them pulling straight away
 
Many thanks for the replies.

I take some comfort that I am not alone but most of the recommendations I have tried (well, not the roller skates but including the hard yanking - and the loop over the nose worked for about 3 minutes but then back to normal) though I have not tried the regular turning which I will now give a fair crack.

She does wear a regular collar so she is used to something around her neck.

Hopefully we'll get it sorted soon

Thanks again.

Iain
 
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Hi it all boils down to basic training. As soon as your pup is clear to go out after jabs. I start walking close to walls so that pup can only have its nose at your knee rest behind you walk up and down change direction widen gap with leash dangling in your hand if pup moves forward of your knee flick the leash in front of nose (not hitting it) with a firm no heel. Then once it is walking in open if it tries to walk in front move your stick across its chest(not hitting it) to stop it moving forward again a firm no heel. Never had a dog pull in 35 years there is nothing worse than seeing a dog pull.
Jim
 
The biggest thing is being 100% consistant (llike all aspects of dog training) Does anyone else walk the dog? Do u always use a slip lead or normal lead.
Sounds like it has got used to associating pulling with the lead, i'd say it's unusual for a dog to heel well off the lead and not on it.

I'd always use a slip or choke chain, the figure of eight thing works well with a slip lead but u have to be quiet gentle with it, the constant turning works too plus change direction, speed, walking in circles just trying to get ur dog to focus on u, possibly a tasty treat at the right time might help. |So does stopping everytime dog goes in front, dinae move forward until dog comes back to the correct postion takes ages to get anywhere thou and possibly more for pups ur dog may be too deeply ingrained

Also the way u correct with a slip lead u want to be pulling short and sharply but more to the side or 45 rather than straight back, u dinae want to be jerking straight back and dog just learns to pull against it.
And the second it puts its nose 1" forward give the dog a low growl/OI the sooner u react the better, no good letting the dog sneak forward over mins then bollocking it, which many folk do, let the dog get 4-6ft in front before they give dog a row. Means the poor thing doesnae really know where 'heel' position is

A really stupid suggestion but i'm watching some old 'dog whisper' stuff on tv , some of the stuff he does is quite good, he reckons all about ur body language and ur 'energy' if ur expecting dog to pull it will pull

Ps other option is get a lesson of someone, Shouldnae be bad to fix and be well worth it to have a dog that dosne pull for the next 8-10 years
 
another thought Have you tried her walking to heel on lead, carrying a dummy Hup her take dummy, walk bit further, give her another dummy, walk on bit further, hup and take dummy etc.. Might take her mind off hauling

S
 
Update.

Thanks again for all replies.

Whilst looking a complete idiot in the local park and using some of the ideas given on here there has been a huge improvement in just one day. Using only her normal slip lead I have turned in on the dog (unannounced), kept her close to walls, and given a sharp "ach" yell if her nose has passed my knee.

I trod on her a couple of times but she seems to have got the hang of it but I don't want to overkill it so she's done well on two walks today so I'm hoping I can (finally) get it sorted.

Thanks for all help.

Iain
 
Update.

Thanks again for all replies.

Whilst looking a complete idiot in the local park and using some of the ideas given on here there has been a huge improvement in just one day. Using only her normal slip lead I have turned in on the dog (unannounced), kept her close to walls, and given a sharp "ach" yell if her nose has passed my knee.

I trod on her a couple of times but she seems to have got the hang of it but I don't want to overkill it so she's done well on two walks today so I'm hoping I can (finally) get it sorted.

Thanks for all help.

Iain

That is brilliant news. Well done.
 
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