sling stud for sako finnbear

Mungo

Well-Known Member
I have a recently acquired Sako L61R (Finnbear).

It seems to have the origonal sling studs - which means that I cant fit a bipod.

I've unscrewed the original stud, and the hole is slightly wider than the standard studs I have on my other rifles.

Does anyone know whether there are studs out there that fit the original holes and which take a bipod/qd sling?

Or could suggest how to get a standard stud to fit in the hole? Polyfilla?

Thanks.
 
2p worth
I removed my stud on both the sako's and drilled it for a harris long bolt type and on the 75 I moved it back a tad to the point that gave better support I also made a flat oblong washer to give the nut a better fixing and cut n bedded it flush inside the barrel channel .
 
I removed the swivel ring from the stud leaving the stud in the stock, had to file the studs slightly so that I could fix quick release swivels and bipod.
 
I removed the swivel ring from the stud leaving the stud in the stock, had to file the studs slightly so that I could fix quick release swivels and bipod.

Can you remove the ring without cutting it?

And did you ever unscrew the stud?

Mine seem to have a very odd threading. Stud is long enough to go right through stock, and only has about 4mm of fine threading very near the tip. This has also been shaved square on two sides (if that makes sense). Now that I've unscrewed it, it won't screw back in - doesn't seem to be engaging with anything - just spins without tightening.

Any ideas?
 
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Can you remove the ring without cutting it?

Yes could on mine anyhow, if they are the same as mine were you will need something like a mole wrench to bend it enough to get it out of the hole , only trouble as I already said the stud is to wide to take normal detachable swivels and needed to be filed down a bit for them to fit.
 
Just sorted the Winnie yesterday, unscrew stud unit, cut through original sling bar / ring using junior hacksaw, remove two halves, drive out the fine pin in the centre of the stud head, file both side of stud head until clearance achieved to attach Uncle Mike's or bipods / other sling fixtures, mine had extremely sound threading into stock, but if not you can use plastic wood or even car body filler to get a good safe re fit.
 
Finnbear - did you have to do anything with your Finnbear?

I'm curious if anyone else has the origonal front sling stud and if it's as odd as the one I've pulled out. I'll try to get a pic up - it looks like nothing I've seen on anything else.
 
....I'm glad I've read this 'cos when I first bought my Sako Forester I couldn't get a bipod on for love nor money - despite the liberal application of numerous anglo-saxon compounding adjectives!! :eek:

I thought it must be me :doh:, or that my Harris wasn't perhaps as Harris as I thought it was when I bough it.....:-|

Eventually filed a smidge (technical term, hope I've not lost you :D) off the front stud and presto hey, bipod now fits.

Would've been a sight easier if it was just the same size as everyone else's to start with though!!!
 
Finnbear - did you have to do anything with your Finnbear?

I'm curious if anyone else has the origonal front sling stud and if it's as odd as the one I've pulled out. I'll try to get a pic up - it looks like nothing I've seen on anything else.
Mungo
my L61R has a normal front sling stud Harris fitted straight on .
norma
 
I would just buy a new stud and glue it in with a 2 part epoxy something like JB weld would do it, on my old sako L691 the stud was forever turning and sort of chewed the wood out when I unscrewed it, bit of epoxy and it never moved again.
 
I cut off the original sling bit ,removed stud and filed down sides to fit uncle mike swivel. I have since replaced whole fitting because swivel was rubbing on stock,it was tight to fit bipod and finally the threads stripped and the whole fitting came out just as I got into the truck after a day on the hill! Replaced it with one from Bushwear - seated the back nut on bed of epoxy and the original backing plate. put a dab of locktight on the thread to make sure it could not unscrew.
 
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