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Thread: Wet stone

  1. #1

    Wet stone

    Anyone Recommend a wet stone for sharpener knifes ? There are loads on eBay but not sure what's good and what's not

  2. #2
    I generally do my knives with a DMT 325 to get the edge sharp and then refine with a Chosera 1k - That leaves a cracking edge IMO and you can always add in a 3k afterwards if you want that extra refinement, but TBH I can shave my arm hairs off from the 1k edge so I think thats probably sharp enough hehe!

    I use straight razors so I have a pretty good honing set up for those, going up to 16k Shapton on Glass (the white ceramic ones) and I think those stones are great as they are very hard wearing and cut fast, and then I finish up on an Asagi japanese stone which is around 30k! Probably overkill for a knife so I'd recommend the chosera series.

    Naniwa Chosera Stone - Best price large stock |

    Dont get the superstone series for knives though - They're very soft stones and dish out easily even when honing razors so I can imagine that effect being worse with knives as you use a lot more pressure.

    Hope thats of some help!

  3. #3
    I've got an IceBear one and it's pretty cheap and yet sharpens my straight razor to, well, razor sharp!

  4. #4
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  5. #5
    I have a Shapton stone it sharpens fast, when I get it right, its all about technique and blade angle, the harder stones are less forgiving. I mostly use a Falkniven DC4 and a strop
    Last edited by tunskeen; 13-08-2015 at 09:00.

  6. #6
    I can recomend japenese water stones I use a 800, 1000 and 4000 grit I generally use the 1000 grit then finish on a strop for a razor edge.

    Staffordshire synthetic stocks

  7. #7
    As a former boner I have to say that 60% of an edge is the workman not the stone. 20% the steel given that you haven't got a blade made of lead. The stone will not make up for poor steel or poor technique.
    I boned and sliced for 6 years and only ever used an aluminium oxide stone. I now have more disposable income and have diamond hones, Japanese water stones and a couple of oil stones. It is horses for courses.
    The Japanese stones I use to bring up the hamon and the grain on differentially hardened blades or 'Damascus' blades.
    The diamond hones on the kitchen knives and gravers. But I still use the aluminium oxide for chisels, planes in the shed and hunting knives.
    The other factor is if the blade is too hard. A lot of novices think that the harder the better. Not so. If it is glass hard it can be very difficult to get a decent edge and it will chip if the bevel is inappropriate for the use it is put to. A carbon steel blade can be more useful as it takes a sharp edge quickly and can be 'brushed up' in the field.
    Last edited by hybridfiat; 11-08-2015 at 04:03.

  8. #8
    Does no one use aluminium oxide and finish with a steel?

  9. #9
    Your result will depend on what steel you use. Ive had loads of knives over the years, from alan woods, rob bayleys, to puukkos, to filleters, to folders, to 01 bushcraft knives.
    At the moment Ive got a TRC K1 with a secondary bevel, in elmax powder steel, which works best with a 30 degree angle, done freehand.
    I use the king waterstones, 1200/6000 grit, 800 grit, 3000 grit. and a leather back strop with ashley isles honing paste.
    You wont need anymore than the Kings, but the Chosera are supposed to be the dogs doo daas.
    Last edited by Dave1973; 11-08-2015 at 08:24.

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