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Thread: Help Dying Pheasants

  1. #1

    Help Dying Pheasants

    We have two pens on our shoot where the birds have suddenly started dying. Over the last week or so he have found 10/20 dead birds every other day. The birds are about 12 weeks old and seem a reasonable size if a little thin. There doesn't appear to be any sign of gapes but we have changed there feed to medicated pellets just in case. No signs of predation.
    Any ideas?


  2. #2
    Cocciodosis got into our birds, had to get some Baycox into their water. Sacrificed three live poults to the local agri vet consultancy to confirm the problem.
    Birds were good and strong when we got them, then two weeks in they weren't feeding, lethargic and keeling over at a similar rate to what you're describing.

  3. #3
    Out of how many? Pheasants favourite pastime is to die. There are some vets that can do a post mortem on the birds. Ask at your local vets if you are concerned.

  4. #4
    If you can see any that are hunched over, when they walk look like they raise as they walk, you should also notice chocolate like poo. Then chances are they have Coccy (coccidiosis), picking up 20 or so a day would indicate that, which is usually the start. You used to use Emptrol (wrong spelling) which also covered hexamita contained dimetridazole but they use something else now Baycox I believe and Tetsol for Hexamita. These drugs are now all prescription only though. I would catch a couple that look ill and take them to the vet, they will then confirm the disease and give you the meds.

    Once you get the birds in they more often than not get it within the first couple of weeks, is bought on by stress of being moved more than anything which is why they should catch up the night before and transport over night when it is cooler and put them in the pen at first day light or crap weather in the first few days can also bring it on, is also thought to be in the ground as well, which is why it is good to move pens every 3-4 years or so. We have the meds in the feed and put them on it from the day they come in for the first week or so, helps to prevent it but dosn't always.

    If it was gapes you would clearly see them in the gizzard and hacking allot which it dosn't sound like that's the case.

    The alternative would be hexamita which can be fairly similar to Coccy but more often the stage after. Poo is normally froffy yellowish.

    Key things to look at are there body weight and poo.

    Thin with yellow froffy poo would indicate Hexamita, normal body weight and chocolate poo then likely Coccidiosis.
    Last edited by johnmcface; 18-08-2015 at 11:14.

  5. #5
    Our birds were on medicated feed from when we got them, grower pellets with Flubenvet, still got the cocciodosis. It was limited to two pens, the pens with most birds in them, but also significantly the pens which were probably overstocked last year and in the worst condition.

  6. #6
    I know this is closing the stable door after the horse has bolted, so I apologise for that, and I appreciate it may be teaching to suck eggs and if so, a further apology, but medicated pellets are the answer to prevent. Depending on when they were last wormed before you got them, the first two weeks should see one week on medicated pellets and then a week on wormer pellets. Obviously, it costs a little more.

    We also ensure our birds are sourced where the travelling is kept to a minimum and release them in the pen pretty early in the day to give them time to have a mooch about and find their way about before dark. And, in theory anyway, choose a time when there will be a few days good weather.

    Hope you get them sorted soon, I can guess those sort of losses are not sustainable for long however many birds you have.

  7. #7
    Malxwal - Flubenvet is a wormer? So wouldn't help with cocciodosis

  8. #8
    Johnmcface has gave some very good advice in both his posts.

    Need to get it daignosed ASAP if ur vet cannae help sometimes ur gamefarmer or local keeper can (possibly not meant to legally) but may have some medicines to get u started. Or may even come out to attempt to daignose it. Sure if u google it might be some info somewhere, possibly on BASC site

    The onl thing i'd add is about cocci s**t, to add to john descroption, it tends to be runnier than normal and caramel colour and constituncy? (i know splitting hairs from choclate colour but caramel does describe it quite well )

    Even feeding medicated feed with wormer, read the instructions ur meant to feed for so long then back to normal feed and then switch back for so long if needed (i dose water now so not familar wit the feed rates/withdrawl) will cost u more and not really benefit the birds feeding medicated fed all the time

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by johnmcface View Post
    Malxwal - Flubenvet is a wormer? So wouldn't help with cocciodosis
    Aah, good point. I'll need to have a look at the prescription, see what else was in there, as the vet was surprised the cocciodosis got a hold of them given the prescription that was in the pellets.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Malxwal View Post
    Aah, good point. I'll need to have a look at the prescription, see what else was in there, as the vet was surprised the cocciodosis got a hold of them given the prescription that was in the pellets.
    More often than not it is Amprol in the feed.

    Yeah true Countrryboy, it can be more caramel in colour, bit like a Cadbury's caramel but certainly not as nice.

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