lamping

tony rentokil

Well-Known Member
Ok guys I have,sorry did have a fox after my partridge.I struggle to handle lamp gun,sticks etc on my own,could I just ask how you get round it.
I have tried a bracket that fixes the lamp next to the gun rest/sticks,but when used at night the light, lights up the silencer and front end so I have a red mist when I look down the scope.
Regards Tod.
 
I use add-on NV and tripod sticks; I'm out foxing almost every night of the year, but don't even own a lamp!
 
Loads on this problem, Insulation tape over bottom third 'ish of your scope's objective lens, tube cut from fishing rod postage packaging,(makes lightweight full length shade, under mounted small lamp, (cluson size), shoot from bipod from vehicle roof, using a light source mounted off to one side etc etc.
 
There are two ways mate , invest in a Laserware ND100 Glacier,,,, I can give you the contact there if you need it and he should give you a good deal if you tell him I passed you on , this projects a laser light past your moderator and gives you awesome image also has an adjustable mount for the top of your scope. You can also get a zoomable lamp/torch again projects the beam past your mod or mount your existing lamp on the underside of your rifle but if your rifle has a floating barrel do not attach it to the barrel as this MIGHT off put zero.

any questions feel free to message me.
 
Ok guys I have,sorry did have a fox after my partridge.I struggle to handle lamp gun,sticks etc on my own,could I just ask how you get round it.
I have tried a bracket that fixes the lamp next to the gun rest/sticks,but when used at night the light, lights up the silencer and front end so I have a red mist when I look down the scope.
Regards Tod.

I extended the length of the lamp arm, this clips on to the scope which intern throws a nice light.
These days I use a small t20 light for spotting which intern saves battery and switch life .
If it is a bright night then the amber filter comes off.

Sorry but I did chuckle when you said you was struggling with the lamp/sticks and light...if you took away one item then would it make it easier lol....


Just practice and thinking through a better method...

Shooting from quad sticks adds a stable platform so my rifle can rest with the lamp on top whilst I try to call in what I have found with the t20.
If it wont move then I make a plan to work out a shot...
Just a method that works for me, I did the same a many people do, buy stuff and found it was carp.

They are both LF 170's but camera angle is deceiving, the height difference is enough to get rid of the glare with out making it top heavy as my sticks help out.

I never walk with it clipped on as the scope is what matters...

004_zpsw1olnpyo.jpg



Tim.243
 
Last edited:
I extended the length of the lamp arm, this clips on the to the scope and throws a nice light.
These days I use a small t20 light for spotting which intern saves battery and switch life .
If it is a bright night then the amber filter comes off.

Sorry but I did chuckle when you said you was struggling with the lamp/sticks and light...if you took away one item them would it make it easier lol....


Just practice and thinking through a better method...

Shooting from quad sticks adds a stable platform so my rifle can rest with the lamp on top whilst I try to call in what I have found with the t20.
If it wont move then I make a plan to work out a shot...
Just a method that works for me, I did the same a many people do, buy stuff and found it was carp.

They are both LF 170's but camera angle is deceiving, the height difference is enough to get rid of the glare with out making it top heavy as my sticks help out.

I never walk with it clipped on as the scope is what matters...

004_zpsw1olnpyo.jpg



Tim.243

Tim is spot on with the advice that he has given!
Just to add that if you don't want to have all the bulk of something like a LF 140 or 170 (Or the weight of a 12 volt battery) get a T50 or T67 to mount on the scopes using one of the figure 8 type mounts as they normally are quite high and minimise glare from a moderator - And as Tim says use a small T20 for spotting with!
 
+1 for the laserware glacier. I have two now one on each rifle. Perfect for loan lamping. I pick them up with the main lamp then if I see one put it down and use the laser
 
If doing it old fashion ie not thermal and digital scope suggest following. Use lightforce lamp for long range initial detection. Have scope mounted LED torch. I fit a inner from a kitchen roll to the torch to ensure no overspill/splash back from the moddy and much tighter beam. This is mounted on a cluson clamp which is by far the best mounting sysytem. Use a set of Limulus excellent quad sticks so rock steady platform. Alternatively shoot off roof of motor. If you are doing a lot of walking out then a head mounted light can be very uesfull, I have a tigra SLE head mounted lamp which is very lightweight and the advantage is the light is always pointing where you are looking. With adjustment you can actually use it to shoot so dispensing with the scope mounted illuminator. New type batteries are much lighter and last much longer than old sealed lead acid.

However if your realy seriuos about it then you have to use a thermal and Drone Pro on a designated rifle, expensive but very effective.

D
 
Thank you guys some great ideas,I think the problem apart from the ones mentioned,is I am a bit loathe to mount anything on my swar scope.
I know all the modern lights/lamps are super light,I have got the quad sticks.
Regards Tod.
 
Thank you guys some great ideas,I think the problem apart from the ones mentioned,is I am a bit loathe to mount anything on my swar scope.
I know all the modern lights/lamps are super light,I have got the quad sticks.
Regards Tod.

I clip my 170 on a Z6....previously a Kahles...the more factors you add then the harder it will be.
By having something that you don't have to fiddle with then you can get on with the shot...

I dived for years in allsorts of conditions and depths (100 mts + ) figuring out how stuff should work and where it should be was a must, just like on shoot day you see people having to look down to reload their gun and then they take their eye off the birds...!!

I am sure you will get there just need to work it out....

Tim.243
 
I and my ex mate used laser genetics ND3-50 sub zero and this is a laser green light that can be easily attached onto your scope and is an excellent bit of kit for on yer own. I also had a special mount with a 140 lamp and very lightweight battery that fits into my pocket and both of these lights had an on/off switch also attached to the rifle for ease of use.
 
A couple more things to think of.
the lamp you are using, is it a hunting lamp. Ie I have a really bright lamp but the beam is too wide and it just flares off my mod. If you have a narrow beam torch then as suggested get a tactical torch and clip it on with a clamp that looks like a 2 half eights and bolt together with a screw in the middle. Or better yet buy a picatinny ring, cost about £8 I think. Look at ant supplies. Then get a torch holder that clamps into the picatinny rail. Works well. I have used them for ages.
one of these Adjustable Laser Torch Illuminator Mounts
and one of these
Scope Tube Accessory Rails ~ Weaver Picatinny Rail Ring Mount
You could also move the torch more forward to miss the mod, but be careful as you don't want to upset the balance.
if your using a different torch then maybe bog roll holder is the way to go but I didn't have much success so changed torch.
 
tony if your bothered about marking the scope if you mount a t20/50/67 put a bit of inner tube on first or tape,hope you get sorted ,atb doug,
 
Good evening, the tape on the bottom of the scope does trick, I had the same problem and when I was told to do that I thought are you having a laugh. But it works a treat.
 
I use a scope mounted T67, or a Pulsar N750 digital NV unit. Regarding the glare, stove painted Scapa tape on the can works for me.
 
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