Tikka with dovetail inclined rail/rings options

bewsher500

Well-Known Member
I have a tikka with an integrated dovetail in the receiver
looking for a 20moa inclined rail or ring option

wondering if there is one out there?

custom is an option but don't know anyone who makes 20moa rails
 
+ 1 for Tier One. Their kit is excellent and they're nice chaps to deal with.
 
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T3 is tapped for bolt on bases/rail though isn't it?
mine is not, just dovetail

Instead of adding a rail I had the front optilock base milled down by approx 30 thou just where the ring
sits, this gave me 20 MOA over the distance between rings. The scope tube doesn't suffer any stress or
allignment issues as the polymer inserts in Optilocks accommodate this.
 
Instead of adding a rail I had the front optilock base milled down by approx 30 thou just where the ring
sits, this gave me 20 MOA over the distance between rings. The scope tube doesn't suffer any stress or
allignment issues as the polymer inserts in Optilocks accommodate this.


sadly not using Optiloks!
an option though

Do you know the model number of your Tikka?

658


Think I am going to get a generic 20 MOA rail and have a female dovetail milled into it
the thought of tapping the receiver or adding yet more height is less exciting
 
From what I have found, the 658 might have a 16mm dovetail. Sounds like you could get some Optilock bases (Bases and Rails - Optics-trade) and have the 20 thou mentioned previously taken off the bottom of the front ring instead of off the dovetail.
Or Google 20 moa scope rings.
 
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Instead of adding a rail I had the front optilock base milled down by approx 30 thou just where the ring
sits, this gave me 20 MOA over the distance between rings. The scope tube doesn't suffer any stress or
allignment issues as the polymer inserts in Optilocks accommodate this.


very interested in the measurements for this
am assuming with a parallel dovetail I can dramatically alter the MOA inclination on offer by altering the distance between the mounts using this method?

my front dovetail has a notch for a recoil pin which would limit the movement of that one

would it make more sense to mill the base?
that would leave the collar that the ring has to engage the base as before and I am guessing its an easier job that trying to mount the ring
 
very interested in the measurements for this
am assuming with a parallel dovetail I can dramatically alter the MOA inclination on offer by altering the distance between the mounts using this method?

my front dovetail has a notch for a recoil pin which would limit the movement of that one

would it make more sense to mill the base?
that would leave the collar that the ring has to engage the base as before and I am guessing its an easier job that trying to mount the ring

I had a similar problem as I was unable to obtain a suitable picatinny rail with 20 MOA. I reverted to simple geometry and used the formula - Sin x = opposite/hypotenuse - where angle x was the required 20 MOA, opposite is the calculated height difference between the two bases and hypotenuse is the distance between the ring centres.
Forgive me if I am teaching Granny to suck eggs. Hope it helps.
 
So I was thinking.....(dangerous I know!)

The spigot on the base of the optilocks is 2.2mm

what is to stop me using a well made shim of the exact base of ring dimension between the ring and the base on the rear?
a piece of shim of say 0.75-1.0mm would give me huge elevation without the need for machining and without compromising the integrity of the mount.

sound doable?

next question...where can I get metal shim material!?
 
I'm not familiar with your scope mounting arrangement but when I had a need to get 25moa and couldn't source a rail I used two part bases and shimmed the rear one at the edge only, (nearest the ocular lens). I then mounted the scope, barely nipping down on the top rings, just enough to check that I had enough elevation and that I wasn't 'bottomed-out' on the elevation and so limiting windeage. When I was happy at the amount of shimming, leaving the rings on the scope, I removed them from the bases, then took the bases off the action and refitted them to the rings.
Now, using dummy base fixing screws, plasticine and releasing agent I bedded the scope/rings/base assembly to the action the same epoxy as you would for stock bedding. Works a treat.
An alternative I have used was to shim the rear mount and then, using a wooden dowel the same O.D. as the scope and grinding paste, lap-in to ensure the rings are profiled to overcome the misalignment this mounting method causes. The amount of material removed by grinding-in is absolutely minute and should it mean that you cannot quite get the ring tops tight without bottoming on the lower rings it is a simple job to rub the top ring mating face down to give the necessary room to snug up on the scope tube.

As for shims, just cut up a drinks can, they are aluminium and if necessary you can use a couple. If one is insufficient and two are too much, just tap one with a hammer to thin it down.
 
bedding not required if I use optilocks as the inner plastic rings rotate to the angle of the outer steel ones to keep scope stress free

drinks cans are a good idea but suspect if I need 30 thou I would probably need a few layers and would prefer one layer of the correct thickness
 
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