"Swing off mounts?"

norsk

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Yesterday I bought a nice Mauser.Now I am after some quick detachable mounts,sadly I don't know the correct term for them or where to start looking.I would like the ability to quickly remove the scope and use open sights.

Here is a picture of the Rifle I would like some for.I suppose being a largely European invention,I would likely find a pair that would suit a 30mm scope tube rather than a 1"?

As its a vintage Rifle,a used pair of rings and bases on a Steel tube scope would be what I am after.
 

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Try Alan Rhone. (I think that's the name, anyway).
There was a demo rifle at the North Wales Talking Stalking evening last year that had their quick detach scope mount system on it. Pretty impressive, and no loss of zero.
 
Thank you for your help.I think the system is pretty common on the continent,not sure the exact term they use for the system though.
 
Hi There,

That's almost for sure an oberndorf sporter pre-war type A, maybe type B, what does the side of the action inscription say? The rounded pistol grip is a dead giveaway along with the strengthened sidewalls of the stock.

Whatever you do, don't start customising it or messing with it as it's a collectors piece.

The bolt however is not original and is a Zastava/Interarms bolt, looks like FN of course, but Interarms usually did checkering on top of the knob, FN did not I'm pretty sure.

An original with all original parts should be worth between £1000 and £2000.

What I would do if I was you is purchase an orberndorf bolt handle from Duane Wiebe and have it laser welded properly to restore the oberndorf original look, and blue the bolt entirely too which would have been the original finish. I suspect the bolt is a bit sloppy in the action in comparison to what the original bolt would have been, but what you can do to correct that a lot is a new extractor claw which does not curve inwards 1/3 back from the front of the extractor/bolt face, the all square side extractor will sit tight in the RHS of the rear receiver bridge and really firm up the bolt cycling.

Do not grind off the rear receiver bridge stripper clip/charger hump, but instead find a rear base which works with an 'unmodified' rear bridge.

I as well would measure the spacings of the drill/tap holes and order either Recknagel eramatics or EAW(Apel) quick detach pivot mounts. You want the rear to be dovetailed (14mm I think), which you can get for unmodified rear bridges for the M98, and then a front pivot/swing off mount.

Is it 7x57, 8x57 or 9.3x57/62?

congrats on the fine rifle by the way. I suspect if it has the original rear sights it's a ladder/tangent type in a band?

photo's? :)
 
Erwin at Alan Rhone is very helpful, and incredibly knowledgeable.

I have Recknagel swing off mounts on my side by side rifle. They are well made, & expensive, and whilst I've never had an issue shooting driven boar, I'm not certain just how consistent they would be on a stalking rifle, shooting out to say 250m.

I wanted removable mounts for a Merkel Helix I've just got, and "Orion" on here mentioned a make called Ziegler. I had a chat with Erwin, and he said the Ziegler mounts are VERY consistent, so I've gone with those. That said, they are frighteningly expensive for a set of mounts :eek:

http://www.alanrhone.com/contact.html

 
Lovely. What chambering?

Since it has already been drilled and tapped for scope bases, the first thing is to figure out what kind of bases. These look like something post-war, although the rifle is of 1920s design. The bolt may be original, but bent for a scope , flattened and checkered. Later bolt handles on some Mausers came flatted and checkered on the bottom side. I will look at it closer, later on.

Measure the hole spacing. All the postwar American bases pretty much have the same spacing, so you can remove a Redfield one-piece base and replace it with a Leupold dual dovetail or Weaver. Likewise, the Warnes, coming later, use the same spacing.

None of these are vintage to the era of the rifle, but vintage as in 60 years old - still good.

It should have a straight ramp front sight and a two leaf rear. I have lots of pictures of untouched ones and restored Type A and Type B ( and F and G ) Mausers.

The cheapest set to try would be Weavers. Vintage rings would be the steel strap rings by Weaver ( still make them) with the thumb / coin screws. If you put them on the steel Warne bases, no one would know, and the look would be good. A steel tube blue Weaver K4 or K6, or an older 26mm tube Zeiss or Kahles from the 1950s or 1960s would look right at home on it, too.
 
Thank you for all your replies and kind help.The Rifle in chambered in 6.5X55 Swedish.I bought it close to Norways boarder with Sweden.

There is a replaced segment on the stock to the right side of the receiver and two very well done (almost undetectable) plugs in the right side of the receiver.Suggesting perhaps that it once sported a receiver mounted sight.There was a discussion on another forum regarding this rifle,I dont know the rules regarding linking to other sites so I will just say they concluded the Rifle was made in about 1919 by a company in Efurt Germany.The serial numbers are consistant through out the Rifle,Floor plate,bolt,receiver,safety etc

I like Southerns suggestion of simple mounts but I really lean towards detachable mounts due to my desire to hunt Reindeer and that can and does involve snow storms which can render scopes useless in moments.Whipping of the Scope and using Irons is a advantage,even with Roe Deer hunting in Sweden when the weather goes from mild to wild in a short period of time.There are two holes on the Barrel that have screws in them I will use to mount a rear sight,I have one suitable in my box of "treasures".

The bore is in pretty decent nick,a bit of frosting on the lands,the proof is in the shooting.Its just a nice old Rifle I will use for hunting at medium ranges.I paid about £250 for it.
 
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Also consider leupolds and talley, not high end, but do the job and won't cost you 750 euros!

I tried the Leupolds, fine if you just leave the scope on, but useless if using as intended, with very poor repeatability. Would be ok for 50m boar, but I wouldn't trust them for 100m +. I haven't tried the Tally.
 
Thank you for all your replies and kind help.The Rifle in chambered in 6.5X55 Swedish.I bought it close to Norways boarder with Sweden.

There is a replaced segment on the stock to the right side of the receiver and two very well done (almost undetectable) plugs in the right side of the receiver.Suggesting perhaps that it once sported a receiver mounted sight.There was a discussion on another forum regarding this rifle,I dont know the rules regarding linking to other sites so I will just say they concluded the Rifle was made in about 1919 by a company in Efurt Germany.The serial numbers are consistant through out the Rifle,Floor plate,bolt,receiver,safety etc

I like Southerns suggestion of simple mounts but I really lean towards detachable mounts due to my desire to hunt Reindeer and that can and does involve snow storms which can render scopes useless in moments.Whipping of the Scope and using Irons is a advantage,even with Roe Deer hunting in Sweden when the weather goes from mild to wild in a short period of time.There are two holes on the Barrel that have screws in them I will use to mount a rear sight,I have one suitable in my box of "treasures".

The bore is in pretty decent nick,a bit of frosting on the lands,the proof is in the shooting.Its just a nice old Rifle I will use for hunting at medium ranges.I paid about £250 for it.

Could hardly see it for the engraving, but yes, it's a small ring mauser which therefore might make it an erfurt, still, with an interarms bolt most likely. You'll therefore have, I suspect, a small ring large shank barrel as most erfurts I've seen were large shank.

the cutting and filling on the RHS of the stock is quite large, might have been accidental damage and stock splitting that happened when it was inlet for a side mount on the RHS, as there were not RH sidemounts used of that magnitude. The oversize repair job was most likely to ensure all ends of the damage were secured from further 'runs'.

No leupolds are not reliable for return to zero, talley are within 1 moa but still not good enough to rely on for smaller game with more precise shot requirements. pivot mounts are pretty darn good from eaw and recknagle, and perfect fit clawmounts are the best by far..but, as with ALL QD mounts, you simply cannot and should not rely on them to A. always keep zero, and B. Return to zero.

In my book, QD mounts are for removing scope when really necessary, and once scope is re-fitted (at least on bolt action CF's'), you should expect to control shoot it to check zero.

For DG hunting, it is of course well known that the QD system should be removable very swiftly and only using one hand whilst holding the rifle in the other and getting ready for a shot..you may be in a hunting situation where having to fiddle with levers on the wrong side of your dominant hand or multiple levers is nothing but dangerous.

The ziegler kontramount is well made, but personally I find it very ugly and also the scope tips backwards, so with a big bolt shrould like that on a classic M98 (domed), you might find that the bolt has to come out before the scopes ocular bell housing can tip down far enough,,and to me, that's just a complete joke and a no no no area.

Best QD mounts I've come across are the one's built into DSB's by Joe Smithson, esp. with the single release button on the rear ring only...that said, just the rings are about a grand in the white ;)
 
I think PKL has pretty much summed it up. I am going through similar process with my Rigby 275 - its pretty much like yours and has been drilled and tapped for a scope. Currently fitted with a leupold one piece base and rings.

I have a set of EAW swing mounts that should fit. Leopold QR - the stud with lever seem tough and certainly those who I know have them, they are repeatable. The alternative is to mount V or weaver type bases and then have a slide on system. Again reasonably repeatable. Claw mounts are the best, but really need to be barrel mounted as the front base has to go at the front of the scope. Alternative is the Ziegler system.

How repeatable are quick release - very much a function of properly mounting the scope and not having stress in the system. On my combination gun with claw mounts I have shot 1 1/2" groups with the scope removed for each shot. I am confident that for deer sized game I can put the bullet where it matters. On my Brno 22rf I have a dovetail system, and again I can slide the scope on and off, and it still shoots to point of aim.

Saying all of the above PKL is correct in that you should really take a check shot, and once scope is on, leave it alone. I think the best option if you are regularly going to shoot close and want wide angle, is to go for a 1.5 -6 x 42 type scope, but appreciate that with open sights you have much better all round vision and that can be important in some situations driven hunting, or when dogs are involved.
 
Thank you for all your replies and kind help.The Rifle in chambered in 6.5X55 Swedish.I bought it close to Norways boarder with Sweden.


I like Southerns suggestion of simple mounts but I really lean towards detachable mounts due to my desire to hunt Reindeer and that can and does involve snow storms which can render scopes useless in moments.Whipping of the Scope and using Irons is a advantage,even with Roe Deer hunting in Sweden when the weather goes from mild to wild in a short period of time.There are two holes on the Barrel that have screws in them I will use to mount a rear sight,I have one suitable in my box of "treasures".

The bore is in pretty decent nick,a bit of frosting on the lands,the proof is in the shooting.Its just a nice old Rifle I will use for hunting at medium ranges.I paid about £250 for it.

I real bargain!

I have some photos of similar rifles from the same era, so you can see what they look like. I own an earlier K98, and and earlier 6.5x55 small ring like yours, and I built a takedown Mauser to look like yours, with the side panels, also in 6.5x55. My oldest 6.5x55 has a Lyman receiver sight, which works wonderfully. It detaches quickly and returns to zero.

Warne QD rings with levers return to zero very well, and sit lower than Talleys, so the receiver sight can look over them. Your rifle probably had Weaver bases and a Lyman rear, with the leaf on the barrel removed. The Weavers actually will come back very close to zero if you turn the screws back to the same spot (a little mark you make), but you need to check them with a shot before working long range.

I am going to have to delete some of my old photos in order to make room to post images showing my rifles up close and others like yours, in all sorts of trim - Talley, Warne, Weaver, Leupold, claw mounts, side mounts.
 
Southern,

Do you by any chance know of any husky 640 9.3x62's on your side of the pond? if so, please let me know,,could even go 146, but probably not 1600's models. hard to find the x62's, all x57's...
 
I've nothing but good things to say about Erwin and Alan Rhone. However one thing that you MUST be aware of is that they do insist that if you fit the Suhler type calw mounts that the rifle be sent for re-proof.

Now that's all well and good but..and this is the big but...re-proof now is done with a lot higher pressure cartridge (I am told) than used to be the case. So you run the risk of the chamber being slightly enlarged as sometimes happens with proof and, alas, if the rifle actually fails proof you've spent a lot of money on work on what is now a scrap rifle.

So after looking into it all for my Belgian 1960s 'artisan' .280 Remington on a Nazi 98K action I didn't proceed with the work. It is a shame but re-proof doesn't actually do the gun any good and may do it some harm and will most likely slightly alter you chamber dimensions.
 
Yesterday I bought a nice Mauser.Now I am after some quick detachable mounts,sadly I don't know the correct term for them or where to start looking.I would like the ability to quickly remove the scope and use open sights.

Here is a picture of the Rifle I would like some for.I suppose being a largely European invention,I would likely find a pair that would suit a 30mm scope tube rather than a 1"?

As its a vintage Rifle,a used pair of rings and bases on a Steel tube scope would be what I am after.


Give these people a ring. Välkommen till Bössmakaren AB, vapen, reparation, reparationer, drilling, studsare, kolv, pipa, räffling, räffla, pipset, plättering, hagelgevär, hagel, jakt, jaktvapen, Bössmakaren, dubbelstudsare, bössmakaren, h englund, klippan, mikael englund they do Apel swing off mounts.
 
I've nothing but good things to say about Erwin and Alan Rhone. However one thing that you MUST be aware of is that they do insist that if you fit the Suhler type calw mounts that the rifle be sent for re-proof.

Now that's all well and good but..and this is the big but...re-proof now is done with a lot higher pressure cartridge (I am told) than used to be the case. So you run the risk of the chamber being slightly enlarged as sometimes happens with proof and, alas, if the rifle actually fails proof you've spent a lot of money on work on what is now a scrap rifle.

So after looking into it all for my Belgian 1960s 'artisan' .280 Remington on a Nazi 98K action I didn't proceed with the work. It is a shame but re-proof doesn't actually do the gun any good and may do it some harm and will most likely slightly alter you chamber dimensions.

well you're dealing with the wrong people then. unless you're dovetailing a front clawmount base into the front receiver ring there's NO REASON to re-proof whatsoever, complete and utter nonsense in my book.

Get the work done anywhere else and it won't be re-proofed, guarantee you.
 
thanks buddy, much appreciated. unfortunately no 640 series or 146 in 9.3 x 62, just the new one's which I'm not after...there are a couple old 640 series for sale.

on another note, are swedish shops that expensive with their guns? seems crazy high prices for huskys that are $300 in the US


Have a look around here Blocket
 
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