new knife to replace mora

Tomm

Well-Known Member
hello everyone,

I am after a new knife to replace my mora, I like the mora but I cannot seem to get a good enough edge on it using my lanksy, im after a half decent knife with a normal grind that will work with my lanksy better, if if not an idiot proof method of getting a decent edge on my mora?
any suggestions will be much appreciated,

thanks
 
have a look at havalon knives,no need to sharpen (although there is a video on you tube on sharpening the blades) just replace the blade,just bought one and very impressed
 
Here's my recipe for having a sharp blade at hand and not breaking the bank:

I have 10pcs of this basic Mora (also stainless version available), they cost 3.90 Euro each or something:

MORAKNIV BASIC 511

I modified two of the scabbards by cutting of the rigid plastic belt attachment and replacing with webbing, so the scabbard moves easily when you e.g. sit. I also wrapped the scabbards in camo tape to take out the hollow plastic noise. These scabbards are on the belt of two hunting trousers. I also cut of the silly stacking nib on all of the scabbards.

Rest of the scabbards are in the car, in the rucksack etc. When a blade gets use, I replace it with a fresh blade after getting home. I don't judge whether it's dulled, I just replace it in the scabbard. I may also replace the blade on my belt with a blade from the car during the day if needed.

When I get several blades waiting to be sharpened, I use a largish flat diamond stone (Dianova) and sharpen them taking care to preserve the grind angle. It doesn't take a lot of work to restore the edge, so it's nice to have few blades to sharpen at one go. I don't use my blades as screwdrivers etc. like some people are tempted with these cheap ones, though...
 
I don't believe there is any such thing as a knife you don't need to sharpen! I like a fashion knife but I have been using a mora for the last year. They are very practical and I don't think you can beat them for cost effectiveness. I haven't had any problems sharpening mine.
 
hello everyone,

I am after a new knife to replace my mora, I like the mora but I cannot seem to get a good enough edge on it using my lanksy, im after a half decent knife with a normal grind that will work with my lanksy better, if if not an idiot proof method of getting a decent edge on my mora?
any suggestions will be much appreciated,

thanks

The Mora knives that I have are able to take and hold a good edge.

It would seem to be a problem with your sharpening system.

I use either diamond sharpeners or oil stones. The removal of the burr thrown up by the stones seems to be the difference in apparent sharpness. A strop or polish with a rotary mop to remove the burr, gives the razor effect.

If you look closely at the edge and can see a line of light along it, you have a problem. My woodworker father had this mnemonic "If you can see an edge...there isn't one"

The cutting edge is just two planes coming together. If the planes don't meet, or if there is a burr attached then you will see light reflection from it.

It is worth working at to get right.

Alan
 
It would seem to be a problem with your sharpening system.

I understood from the original post that Tomm knows his sharpening system (that he finds convenient to use and idiot proof) is designed for steeper angles found in knives, whereas Mora has angle that's found in "puukko" knives (more or less known as scandi grind in knife industry).

My approach is twofold:

- don't get the Mora very dull, so it's easier to sharpen and follow the original grind angle
- sharpen several at one go, at the time of your choosing and using decent equipment

There's sharpening systems that allow adjusting for puukko grind angle, probably best and most expensive being Tormek from Sweden.
 
I understood from the original post that Tomm knows his sharpening system (that he finds convenient to use and idiot proof) is designed for steeper angles found in knives, whereas Mora has angle that's found in "puukko" knives (more or less known as scandi grind in knife industry).

My approach is twofold:

- don't get the Mora very dull, so it's easier to sharpen and follow the original grind angle
- sharpen several at one go, at the time of your choosing and using decent equipment

There's sharpening systems that allow adjusting for puukko grind angle, probably best and most expensive being Tormek from Sweden.


Maybe a bad choice of words on my part. Perhaps I should have said sharpening regime.

Maybe I have misunderstood the OP but he says he likes the Mora. So changing a blade profile you like for the arbitrary one which your sharpener is designed for seems slightly strange to me..

But in case there are pro-lanskyites reading, I was not referring to the physical mechanism but the process. Moras can be sharpened successfully. If the OP cannot, it is a problem with the sharpening and not the knife.

I don't know exactly what the "lansky" he refers to comprises, but I hazard it is some sort of guided system. The trouble with guided systems is that if it is not appropriate for the existing blade profile it has a lot of metal to move before it can achieve an edge.

I have always sharpened freehand, the advantage being you can follow the existing angles of any profile, or adjust it to suit your preference. My post was mainly to help the OP learn what to look for when sharpening, whatever the system or process used, or angle required come to that.

Alan
 
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There is also a Lansky blade medic sharpener which I'm not sure is good method apart from in the field emergencies.

It takes some practice but a good whetstone with a leather strop for polishing the edge can't really be beaten. Starkie Sharp do a whetstone called 'diasharp' which they do with a leather cover for polishing that I would recommend.
 
Tomm, I use a Lanksy on my Mora knives and use the outer holes every time. This gives a sharp and strong edge. I'm happy to sharpen it for you although the cost of the two way postage would probably rule that out? However, if not, get on you tube and see how the experts do it. I suspect that it's your technique?
baguio
 
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If you are already using Mora Knives why change - they do the job very well, don't cost very much and if / when you loose one your heart doesn't break. The carbon steel ones sharpen easily enough, and one on your belt, one in your pack is the way to go.

I do use a stainless / rubber Buck Alpha as my primary knife, but Mora is always there as a back up, or for when the edge goes off the Buck. I got the Buck before I knew about Mora's and to be honest if I did n't have the Buck would just stick with the Mora.

One key attribute of both the Buck and the Mora is their sticky rubber handles - mostly your hands will be wet when gralloching - either its ****ing with rain, or you have blood on them. Wooden handles, such was the Opinal and on many fine knives are slippery when wet. Slippery knife = trip to A&E sooner or later.
 
Wooden handles, such was the Opinal and on many fine knives are slippery when wet. Slippery knife = trip to A&E sooner or later.

You mean like this:

View attachment 62654

Wooden handle. Cold, wet day. In a hurry = 4 hours appreciating the rich kaleidoscope that is A&E.

Oh - and the doc who finally stitched me up vaguely knew me, and knows that my wife is a vet. Doc's recommendation? Get the vet to do it next time - saves everyone time.
 
Hi I got one of these *Karesuando Skarpsint RWL 34 Knife a few years ago takes a bit of time to sharpen but holds it's edge for a good time.
 
thanks for all the replies up until now. i do like the moras and have got 5 or 6 of them but i cant seem to get the edge the same as when they were new, someone has kindly offered to show me how to use a wet stone and a stop properly so i will give that a go before i buy anything eles. thanks baguio for the incredibly kind offer but i think like you said the postage would nearly cost the same as a new knife. if i still cant get the hang of it then i will look into the other knives suggested!

thanks again
 
I was terrified about sharpening knives. I, too, have mora, and found that a fine (or extra fine) oil stone does a brilliant job. I then use a piece of leather (or a leather belt) to stroop it, and I have to admit that it works wonders. It took me a handful of sharpening attempts, but each time I do it now I am achieving better results.
 
Anyone tried the Gerber Myth Drop point ?
has a built in sharpener on the sheath.
Online at £29.95 may be worth a look.
 
not used the drop point but they do a smaller vesion in the myth range i think its called a compact and that is a fantastic little knife very sharp and well made and the edge was easy to keep on it aswell and i very nearly bought one but the blade was quite thin and i was woried it might snap when i cut through the breast bone when gralloching
 
if you sharpen a scandi grind blade ie a Mora with a secondary bevel angel from a full flat blade ie Swiss army knife you will eventually have a sharp blade but the Angel you cut with is to now to thick You need to Sharpen the Scand angle to sharp then apply a small micro bevel to help reduce chipping and hone on a strop.

Scandi have the sharpest edge (therefore most delicate) are easy to get the angle right on a free hand stone as you have a large flat bevel to hold to BUT require a large amount of material to be removed to get a small change in edge sharpness so take a lot longer than a normal small secondary bevel this is made worse if you use a stainless steel Which is generally harder than carbon steel and has alloys added to make it wear resistant (sharpening is wearing the metal away)

you need to Sharpen the main bevels back use good quality Diamond sharpeners (say 15-30mins) on a cycle say after 10 touch ups on a fine stone/ceramic ( a few strokes per side) which you do once after 10-20 Strops on a loaded leather (every use)

exact number of cycles at each stage will depend on the knife steel exact angles use type and how you use your knifes i.e. lots of bouncing off bone will speed up sharpening need etc

Mora Dont make a cheap knife this a very good knife with good steels in carbon and stainless mass produced at a low cost
 
I find the carbon steel Mora knives achieve a much better edge than the stainless steel ones. I use a simple sharpening steel. If you make sure you clean and dry them within a few hours of use, they don't rust or tarnish. If they do it comes off very easily with wire wool.
 
I use a Lansky on my Mora's and you can shave with them. I put a 20 degree grind on all of mine, it takes a bit of work initially to put a new edge on them but once you have done that its easy to maintain. I would highly recomend getting the ultra fine stone and the leather attachment they do make a real difference.
 
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