Results of Red Oil for Potman

Brithunter

Well-Known Member
Hi There,

This is the difference that an oiled finish with Alkanet Root Oil (Red Oil) over the factory finish:-

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339206830.jpg


As the rifle came to me with a slightly worn finish. So this was stripped off with Nitromors and a couple of small marks steamed out then after drying a few coats of Red Oil applied to highlight the grain.

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Which it did quite nicely. It has not achieved the worn glossy handled look yet but it will get there with use ;).

These are the Leupold Q/R mounts we spoke about on that 1200 Super:-

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The bases of these on this rifle required "fitting" as they didn't match the actions profile perfectly, shame about that as they cost around £85 :(. The weaver bases are the cheapest option and they can take a wide variety of different rings.
 
Hi There,

This is the difference that an oiled finish with Alkanet Root Oil (Red Oil) over the factory finish:-

339209413.jpg


339206830.jpg


As the rifle came to me with a slightly worn finish. So this was stripped off with Nitromors and a couple of small marks steamed out then after drying a few coats of Red Oil applied to highlight the grain.

339207252.jpg


339207170.jpg


339207110.jpg


Which it did quite nicely. It has not achieved the worn glossy handled look yet but it will get there with use ;).

These are the Leupold Q/R mounts we spoke about on that 1200 Super:-

14284690.jpg


14284710.jpg


The bases of these on this rifle required "fitting" as they didn't match the actions profile perfectly, shame about that as they cost around £85 :(. The weaver bases are the cheapest option and they can take a wide variety of different rings.

My first rifle was a Parker Hale 1200 super S with a set trigger built in that you had to rock forward to set it.
Shot quite a few deer with it as well, The only thing I could not get to terms with was the sloppy bolt action and there was problems with the extractor as well so got shut of it after a few years and bought a Shoenaur Stutzen with double set triggers in 270 cal
re stock oil a old stockmaker from a top london gun maker recommended a little dodge to me by using baby oil
 
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The chair is for "Occasional use only" having lived in a small flat I needed a couple in case extras were required for visitors so brought two of these chairs. They serve their purpose so can remain as they are :cool:.

My first rifle was a Parker Hale 1200 super S with a set trigger built in that you had to rock forward to set it.
Shot quite a few deer with it as well, The only thing I could not get to terms with was the sloppy bolt action and there was problems with the extractor as well so got shut of it after a few years and bought a Shoenaur Stutzen with double set triggers in 270 cal

Hmmm I still hear people say this about the Mauser 98 action :confused: strange as it was designed with the clearence for muck etc in warfare. I cannot fault your choice of the Schoenaur as they are beautifully made :cool: and a real piece of gunmaking art. Although I am aware of the P-H single set trigger I have never come across one :( but wonder about them as the std P-H adjustable trigger goes quite low in weight of pull. The exractor should have been an easy thing to sort out after all it's a Mauser 98 one ;).

Sam sorry I don't know why they're not showing for you. Filters perhaps? Other can see them so the protcol is working it seems.

Oh I am about to start on this stock:-

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Hopefully the striped grain with really come out :cool:.
 
Thanks I am hoping that the 1200C will come out a bit like this Brno ZKK 601:-

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ZKK601StockFiguring.jpg

I used a Wharthog Purdeys kit on that one and yes I have a couple of scopes that fit it ;).
 
I know the purists have much to say about wood warping and weathering and needing high maintenance but those plastic stocks are really ugly after seeing wood like this.

Brianm
 
I know the purists have much to say about wood warping and weathering and needing high maintenance but those plastic stocks are really ugly after seeing wood like this.

Brianm

:lol: Brian that's the std Brno stock just with the factory varnish removed and a rubbed oil finish applied. After a days Muntjac stalking near Northampton one particular time once home I had to strip the bolt to pour the water out. It rained all day and even sitting in the cover in the lea side of the wood didn't help much, we did get a yearling Buck though on the last knockings of the light :D. The stock is still true and not warped and still has the factory bedding untouched. I think in the years since this oiled finish was applied I have rubbed in a spot of oil twice now to maintain the finish. Not exactly high maintenance ;) Oh I brought the Brno with some of my Pistol compensation from dear ole Tony :mad:.
 
Oh this one just required a bit of oil rubbed in to refresh the finish. It was new never used the gun only proof fired then finished :-

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BSASingleX11WIPLHS.jpg

Trouble is sitting on the shelf for 30+ years meant it had dried a bit. The stock is off a BSA Single X11 and the breechface is unmarked. I have not shot it either so it remains brand new unfired. You can see the grain is not perfectly filled and as I wish to retain it's original finish I just used some conditioning oil on it. Otherwise I would have filled the woods pours for a perfect smooth finish ;).
 
Now you have made me think about doing my BRNO ZKK, you rotten bugger!

John
 
Fantastic work. Do you think this finish is slightly less protectice as regards scratches/dings than a varnish finish? Wondering whether to give it a try.

Could you possible give a short summary of how you remove the old finish and how many coats you apply etc?

Cheers

Gabriel
 
Fantastic work. Do you think this finish is slightly less protectice as regards scratches/dings than a varnish finish? Wondering whether to give it a try.

Could you possible give a short summary of how you remove the old finish and how many coats you apply etc?

Cheers

Gabriel

I use Nitromors to strip off the old finish and it requires as many applications as is needed to remove the old finish. Different manufacturers use different finishes and some are tougher to remove that others. You have to use water to neutralise the Notromors so once the stock is dry you need to de-whisker it. I steam any dents and compression marks out then worry about de-whiskering. I also "Bone the wood" that is I use a swarfe/suds brush with a round wooden handle and rub it over the wood applying pressure and this lays down the raised fibres and also smooths the surface and slightly burnishes the surface of th wood.

Once this is done I wipe the wood down, avoiding the chequering, with 400 wet and dry then 600 wet and dry paper then after wiping off any dust with a cloth I then apply the first coat of Alkanet Root Oil (Red Oil) which is allowed to dry. The first coats will dry very quickly as they sink into the surface so the first day you will be able to get at least two coats and depending on the wood and the weather, if it's warm and dry the wood will absorb it more quickly and the surface will dry.

The Alkanet Root oil will darken the wood slightly but it does enhance the grain and once you get the tone you like then once that coat is dry you can wipe the surface with the 600 wet and dry to make sure it's smooth then apply the first coat of stock oil.
This can be Boiled Linseed oil or one of the many prepared stock oil finishes. You only apply a small amount at a time and rub it in then let it dry. There are some grain fillers avaialable to close any pores in the wood this is best done if you want a marble smooth finish. Some stock finish oils have fillers in them I understand. From start to finish it's possible to get a superb hand rubbed oil finish in about 10 days sometimes it takes longer the depth of finish is up to you and the deeper the finish the longer it will take.

As for durability well all I can say this is the old traditional way of finishing a stock. Small marks are simply repaired by rubbing in a small amount of oil finish. Maintenance is simple about once or twice a year you put a spot of oil on your finger and rub in into the stock. A properly applied oil finish is also weather resisitant. I find it's more tactile than the varnish, often a polyurathane finish which I find slippery when wet, the oiled finish seems to have more grip.

JATB,

Now you have made me think about doing my BRNO ZKK, you rotten bugger!

What me? :oops: No not me must have been someone else ;). Now you know you really like a nice looking stock and that's nto MY fault. It's just common sense :cool: :D
 
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