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Thread: Waxing rifles

  1. #1

    Waxing rifles

    Does anyone apply wax to rifles, either metal or stock?

    having just spent yesterday trying to get 12 hours of rain out of every little crevice it occurred to me that a light polish of kiwi clear polish on everything would certainly help stop it soaking in to the worn edge or inner surfaces of the stock and bead it up everywhere else

    not something I have thought of doing before

  2. #2
    It is an old technique that you find mentioned in old books and magazines and most likely why a lot of old classic hunting rifles are still in good condition with no rust on them. Another techniques used by old gunmakers was gold plating of internal parts to resist corrosion. But then again it is also mentioned that they cleaned their guns after an outing.

  3. #3
    Ed, I use best quality furniture beeswax on my rifle stock but if it's raining I keep it in an easy-access loden slip. Getting it truly soaked would produce a few pale marks but they disappear with the next application of wax.
    Last edited by McKenzie; 06-02-2016 at 12:05.

  4. #4
    As much as I love good wood on rifles it's time consuming when the weathers regularly as bad as it can get that's why I went to a synthetic stock on my rifle a Mauser m03 extreme if the weather is bad I take it all down and give it s good wipe over and jobs a good one couple of minutes

    if its the shotgun I use furniture polish and stock oil and the usual for the barrels etc

  5. #5
    Yes I uses a beeswax mix on my stocks including barrel channel and a lanolin wax on the metal. Keeps it all nice and looks after it learnt from and old wild fowler who's guns stayed in great condition

  6. #6
    I do, stock as well as the metalwork, its a leather boot proofing wax, i found how good it was a repelling water from my rifles metalwork after not thoroughly cleaning it off after a bedding job, the water just beads and drops off with a quick shake.


  7. #7
    sounds good
    assume you need to degrease the barrel and receiver to take the wax do you?
    i normally apply a thin coat of oil with a pad on all metal surfaces, usually dries but comes off easily
    looking at wax as it shouldn't rub off as easily

  8. #8
    I use Renaissance wax on my wood and metalwork pieces...well a home made version. It is a blend of microcrystalline and polythene waxes and has a higher melting point than beeswax so does not suffer from being sticky at room temperature and attracting dust like beeswax. It is tougher but still has some creep to repair scuffed/scraped areas. It does not have the organic inclusions that Beeswax or Lanolin do that can break down over time and the acids formed can attack metal.

    It was developed at the British Museum for conservation...reassuringly expensive if you buy it from Picreator on eBay. Which is why I make it as I get through a lot. It goes a long way and well worth having a pot in the house as protector, great for curtain poles, drawer sides etc....much better than a silicone spray from the point of view of removal.

    I also use shoe polish, and have used the pigmented versions to give a patina to the piece, I have used it on air rifle barrels to reduce the appearance of wear to the blueing.


  9. #9
    I have used Renaissance Wax on both rifles and shotguns (metalwork and woodwork), this season. It has worked well in the field, and on firearms in storage.

    He that strikes the venison first shall be the lord o' the feast. Shakespeare, King Lear.

  10. #10
    I use Renapur on woodwork and metal and my shoes

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