Which Loctite for scope ring screws?

Siggy

Well-Known Member
Hi,

Was thinking of using loctite on my scope rings when I reassemble it soon - should I use loctite243 or 222 or 221?

cheers

Siggy
 
Have to ask but why?

Have come across loctited screws on a used rifle before and severely cursed the idiot who did so. In fact had to buy new screws as they chewed up so badly. never used locite on them and never had a problem. Expect the same would be true today. Degrease the threads and screw home snugly.... job done.
 
as per McK had a S/H scope that came with rings after having to cut the buggers off due to lock tight red being used I know why it was sold with the rings ?:doh: but if you need/have to its the blue type thread lock no stronger but wheeler Torque type driver is all you need ,
Torque screwdriver & check periodically.
 
I use 222 on the threads which go into the receiver & the rings. I also put a blob of two part 24hr epoxy between the screws on the receiver (not in the threads) & a couple of small spots where the rings contact the scope tube (again not in threads). It's nothing for me to do 2000km on corrugated roads in a week & not doing this with scope mounts is just daft. I don't use European scopes for the same reason, Leupold seem to be the only ones that can do a million or two kms without problems.
 
Just use the correct Loctite, non permanent thread loc. I remember 243/222 being good for scope mounts.
Loctite done properly gives you a defined torque to open again. How much torque is needed to open a rusted thread???
Loctite will keep water out, avoids corrosion in the threads and also act as a lubricant opening or closing which can avoid galling of stainless screws in stainless.
I've been using Loctite for over 30 years now and have in the past used the wrong type which lead to disaster, learning curve. Adhesives/glues are part of engineering and sometimes essential.
The big problem is that many scope rings have lousy screw quality (optilock for one), that is where the trouble starts.
edi
 
Some screws are hidden and can't be checked without removal such as the screws that secure the Optilock bases to the rings. Loctite 222 studlock or similar is ideal. It also allows you to trust a smaller amount of torque without having to graunch screws up too tight and cause damage to scopes etc. I saw a classic example of this on the range last Saturday where a good shooter was slightly confused when he shot a 5 inch group from a Sako rifle with a S&B PMII scope on a picatinny rail. He then shot another group slightly larger and changed ammo. The first shot of the third group and his scope and rail fell off completely!:eek:
Problem solved! Rifle re-assembled and shot fine.
I also had a trainee that 'missed' a chest shot deer once. He wasn't sure if he'd hit or not so fired again at the chest. As he fired the second shot, the deer dropped and his scope fell off! He'd missed the first shot completely and somehow hit the roe in the high neck with the second despite aiming at the chest!
Both of these incidents would have undoubtedly been prevented with a bit of Loctite applied. Low strength studlock gives you confidence and peace of mind with the ability to dis-assemble when applied at sensible torques. I always use it and never have to check my screws as a result. Never had a problem.
MS
 
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As stated loctite 222 is the one to use, (this can be undone with hand tools) just a dab, you certainly don't want anything stronger.

I have watched YouTube clips of people undoing screws stuck fast with loctite by firstly applying a soldering iron to the head of the screw, the heat soaks through and melts the loctite holding the screw fast which enables the screw to be removed more easily.

A useful tip to know!

ps - I have only ever used a dab of loctite 222 when attaching optilock rings to bases as I have seen these come loose before.
 
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Some forms of Loctite seem impervious to heat and being undone. So when I fit the scope I will do just as I used to and that is clean the threads and just do them up shug enough to hold and then go shooting.
 
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Thanks all - as neither the Loctite or the torque wrench have turned up through the post, but the new rings have, it looks like I'm going to be borrowing the wife's nail varnish!

Cheers,
Siggy
 
As stated loctite 222 is the one to use, (this can be undone with hand tools) just a dab, you certainly don't want anything stronger.

I have watched YouTube clips of people undoing screws stuck fast with loctite by firstly applying a soldering iron to the head of the screw, the heat soaks through and melts the loctite holding the screw fast which enables the screw to be removed more easily.

A useful tip to know!
Just wait untill you buy a scope and mounts from Europe as some of our friends over there like to araldite there scopes in to the rings.:doh:
 
Yes REIVER I had the pleasure of such a thing on a Zeiss 'scope I bought in Paris. Cheap because of the araladite. I froze it, poured boiling water over it, froze it again.

Eventually the araldite bond loosened and I could "pick" the araldite off with a fingernail.

After this I have always bought Zeiss 'scopes. Because after all this mistreatment the Zeiss didn't fog, the lenses didn't crack, the thing didn't show any ill effect. Testament enough to its quality.
 
Hi,
Thanks all - I'll look into torque screw drivers!

Cheers

Mark
I use loctite blue, always have & not once a problem. Just read the bottle for intended use. You only put a tiny dab on one side of the tip.
The only issue is when a huge blob has been dropped on the screw which is almost the same size :doh:
 
or you get a phone call, hi mate i cant get my rings off they are stuck solid,i replied well yes you used araldite rapid on them :banghead:bs.
 
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