In your professional opinion looking at the wood do you think it could be improved or is it a lot of effort for nothing? I thought CCL darkened it and made it matt? Does it not need to be able to breath or do you think CCL will seal it up and then all it needs is just a wax? I used a carnumba wax and that made it look great but didn't really seep in so well, will take a gander at Renaissance wax.
Do you have any before and after pictures of your SP? I am having shoulder surgery in a week so ill have plenty of time to oil the damn thing
Thanks
Tim
As Welshwarrior and I have both already said, you really need to start with a stripped stock, which means that the existing finish must be completely removed. I don't have any photos but can take some and post them if it's useful for you.
ALL oils will darken the timber to greater or lesser extent, some more than others. CCL, like all oil finishes, builds up to a more lustrous finish with every coat applied. The more oil applied over a longer period of time, the better the finish. It's important to get the timber finished to a high standard before you start. I sometimes dampen the surface very lightly after working to a fine abrasive paper finish and use a sharp scraper together with the finishing grade of paper very lightly over the surface followed by a fine wool finish before oiling. The timber usually starts to take a lustre after about the first 10 coats or so and builds up after that. Very fine coats rubbed well in are the key, along with patience. As Welshwarrior will tell you, a good finish takes time and effort.
Improve is a relative term, but you have a nicely figured stock and I'd suggest it's worth doing well. Hard to tell from just a photo what the final finish is like so I can't comment without seeing it in the flesh.
Carnauba (or Brazil wax) is a good finishing wax often combined with beeswax for furniture but is not suitable for exterior protection of gun stocks. No wax finish really cuts the mustard as an exterior weather protective finish. Whilst you can use it on a previously oiled stock as a means of bringing up a tired finish or maintaining a finish, it doesn't last. You cannot apply oil finishes over previous waxed finishes though.
As stated, the advice would be to strip back to bare timber, seal and finish the timber to a high standard then oil it with an appropriate oil. DIY is easily achievable if you have the time and patience. A really good professional finish isn't cheap due to the time it takes to achieve but it is worth it if you don't want the hassle yourself.
Wood doesn't need to breathe as such. In fact the opposite is beneficial for gun stocks. Timber needs to be sealed to protect it and to prevent undue movement with humidity/moisture changes. Oil seals well, as do PU finishes (most are spray applied at the factory because it is quick, cheap and durable).