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Thread: First rifle

  1. #1

    First rifle

    Ok, so I know most of you guys have been at this game for donkey's years, and grew out of "little" rifles yonks ago, but we all have to start somewhere!

    So, after a lifetime of shotgunning, I went out yesterday and bought a .22 LR rimfire.
    Main quarry will be corvids. Next on the list will be rabbits, possibly lamping. NWP won't allow .22 for fox (although a local keeper tells me he's always used a .22 rimfire for foxes).

    Kept it simple. 2nd hand CZ /BRNO Mk II & moderator, new 3-9 X 50 scope & mounts. Together with cleaning kit and 400 rounds of expanding ammunition, the whole package came in at under 300 (plus the VAT, which I'll claim back).

    Firstly, what tips can you give me re: zeroing?
    Secondly, how to get the best use from what appears to be a very versatile 'scope?
    Thirdly, I read in interesting thread on here re: taping the muzzle. Sounded like a very sensible thing to do, but is it ok to do this on a subsonic .22 ?

    Also any other advice gratefully recieved.

    Last edited by VSS; 20-02-2011 at 22:17.

  2. #2

    rifles set up

    hi there

    i think you have started very well by getting your cz rifle. i have had mine for about six years and taken account of a fair few rabbits with it. my firearms officer (sussex) is the same and wont put fox on my .22 rimfire but if the range is short and i am certain of a head shot then it does very well. i stress short range as subsonic ammo just dosnt have the punch down range. i set my scope to 6 x magnification and keep it there. others maybe differant its just what suits me. i generally zero mine at 60 yards as this gives a happy medium and you dont have to hold over much for 80 to 90 yard shots and dont have to adjust much for shorter ranges.
    hope this helps

  3. #3
    The firearms officer did unbend sufficiently to say that it would be ok for despatching snared / trapped foxes.

    Re: zeroing range, I'm reckoning on having to work on the higher side of the rifle's capabilities for wily corvids. What do you think?

  4. #4
    with practice you could consistantly drop corvids at 100 yards. do remember that .22 rimfires love to ricochet i went back to using my air rifle in the summer as the ground was hard even shooting into rising ground it was bouncing. the joy of a .22 sub is that you still have to get preety close. while it can be frustrating eapecially with crows your field craft will be so much better for it. and if you move up to larger quarry calibres you will have loads of field craft and find it that much easier.

  5. #5
    Ground is all hard here - mostly exposed rocky outcrops. The firearms officer wanted me to go for .17HMR, on account of supposed reduced riccochet risk, but I said I wouldn't be able to afford the ammo!

    What about the muzzle taping thingy?

  6. #6
    my friend uses a .17 and loves it but it is really affected by wind. knowing what north wales is like you get get your fair share of wind dont you. when you say taping the muzzle is this to stop snow/rain going down the barrel. if so i have never bothered. it is very easy to get snow up the barrel and not even know with nasty concequences

  7. #7
    Yes, it's to keep all sorts of muck out when you're lugging the gun through the undergrowth. There was a very interesting thread about it on here a couple of months ago. I just wasn't sure if it would be ok with the lower velocity subsonic. Would the tape blow off cleanly? and would the accuracy be affected?

  8. #8
    sorry its taken a while to reply. my brother in law passed his driving test a week ago and just had a close shave with a fallow. missed the deer. hit two cerbs and a wall. thats the end of that car. at least no one was hurt. as far as taping over the muzzle i will bow to greater knowledge from others on this one. im not sure if there is enough velocity to blow the tape off safely and not affect accuracy. ultimately its best to keep barrel clear of any debris in the first place but i know were you are coming from.

  9. #9
    SD Regular
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    East Midlands M1/M69 Junction 21
    Firstly, what tips can you give me re: zeroing?
    Fire it at twenty five yards to start off! At least that way you can see if it is "wildly" off zero! Also at that time set your windage so at least you don't have to worry about "left and right" (in theory) only "up and down".

    Wind can affect a bullet drop BUT at least if you set the windage at twenty-five yards your will be confident that the wind has affected it the least. If it is a still day by all means set the windage at fifty yards.

    To try to set windage at over fifty yards is sometimes at the luck of any wind!

    I'd personally zero a 22 rimfire to shoot "dead on" to sights at seventy-five yards.

    That way, in theory, at up to seventy-five yards, your bullet will be no more than the distance between height of the 'scope crosshairs and the bore of the rifle below your point of aim. And will never be above your line of sight through the 'scope.

    If you try and do it at greater distance I think that actually your bullet trajectory will take it OVER THE TOP of your line of sight.

    Once done I'd then walk back to one hundred yards and see how far below the point of aim the bullet has dropped.

    And, if it is a STILL DAY WITH NO WIND, re-check your "left and right".

    Again, in theory, with a seventy-five yard zero if you aim at the neck of a crow (standing front on) at up to one hundred yards you will hit him there or in the chest.

    I'd still stick with this seventy-five yard distance even if using the hyper velocity 22 rimfires.

    FWIW I found that the MOST accurate, some twenty years ago when I used such a thing, was RWS HVHP.

    What make is your expanding ammunition?
    Last edited by enfieldspares; 27-01-2011 at 00:40.

  10. #10
    Ammo is winchester.
    I have yet to put a round through the gun, but have spent some time today manually bore sighting after mounting the scope. Did that at 50 yards.
    I reckon I'll do as you suggest, and work at 75 yards for zeroing. That should give me a bit of leeway in both directions, and I'll be able to allow for that once I've got the hang of the multiple aim point reticle.

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