home made tumbler
- Thread starter mereside
- Start date
sweep 6.5x55
Well-Known Member
I find this stuff the best http://www.midwayuk.com/apps/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?SaleItemID=557992
harrygrey382
Well-Known Member
they need to be slow enough so the brass falls down when they reach the top as the drum turns. If it's too fast they'll stick to the outside due to the centrifugal effect. So that's real slow for a washing machine, but a tumble drier might be ok.
Have you considered making one? They're basic...
Have you considered making one? They're basic...
mereside
Well-Known Member
hi harry i am into photography and developing and it dawned on me that i use a rotary roller which rolles my film in a chemical to develope i also use a plastic drum for paper and it would probably fit at least 50 -100 cases instead of buying one was going to try that . if it works and i cant see why not these drums are pence on fleabay as are the unirollers for anybody else that doesnt want to spend a fortune ,atb wayne
harrygrey382
Well-Known Member
Hi Wayne. Good move - sounds like it'd work well. Sonds like it'd work perfectly. I went even more low tech and cut a gas bottle down and mounted it to a motor. It took a lot of gearing down:
By the way - I too am into photography. However, I use manual (paterson) tanks - I'd love a drum style developeing tank because agitating for over 10 minutes at a time is a pain! You must shoot a lot of film though... I guess I wouldn't shoot more than about 30 a year so couldn't justify the expense and space of a big system
harrygrey382
Well-Known Member
harrygrey382
Well-Known Member
Wow, you're more dedicated than me for sure. I've always fancied making my own developer but have beena bit nervous. I'm more comfortable with resistant materials... What film is that and what format then?
mereside
Well-Known Member
sorry i didnt read your post properly,i was using 35mm 120 mm and 4x5 but since stalking i have sold my bronica and my kodac 4x5 i still have the film in the freezer as its fuji velvia 50 and the paper is positive i will get back in on some pinhole stuff i want to play with .my black and whites are hp5 or ilford atb wayne
harrygrey382
Well-Known Member
wow, that sounds fine! For B&W? How's it on grain size? I mostly use pretty slow films and only use B&W - mix of stuff but do like HP5, along with a lot of the new Adox stuff. How does it perform with films like Agfa APX100 and FP4+?
mereside
Well-Known Member
harry its really fine no graining,although i do like grain it works well with fp4 havnt tried any agfa although i use 50 year old agfa paper and i was asked by adox to test their paper alongside the old agfa fibre papers as they baught the agfa paper coating machines i probably have three boxes of old agfa left with a box of adox.harry not sure if this picture will come out properly as i have taken it off the ilford site as i dont have a copy on my laptop but this was shot with hp5 developed in pyro and then printed on 50 year old agfa paper developed in diluted lith the image took an hour to develope with constant agitation and statched before the image blocked up.
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harrygrey382
Well-Known Member
hmm I think I'm lagging well behind in experience here wayne... That's interesting about using old paper. I have a stash of expired Kodak paper - some 20x40 amongst others IIRC. I haven't tried it but had written it off, but you give me hope! Is lith the way to go with old paper? Does it still give the 'normal' gradients and tones compared to something like Ilford FB MG? What's the best way to get old paper to look like fresh stuff?
How does the Adox and Agfa paper compare then? I really like the new Adox company and want to support what they're doing. I'm trying their CMS 20 which is interesting. I wish they did FB matt paper though...
mereside
Well-Known Member
harry not all papers will lith you would need to cut a piece expose and see i have around 20 pieces of unknown resin paper that has a lovely colour but sadly will never find that again adox has a fb its called mcc111 which was the paper i tested against the agfa they werent quite a match tones where really nice not as creamy as agfa a little whiter but a lovely paper and a joy to see hanging in a frame.for old paper add some Potassium Bromide 10% solution Water : 500ml;
Potassium bromide : 50g;
Add 50ml of 10% potassium bromide solution per liter of stock solution developer.
Add 25ml of 10% potassium bromide solution per 500ml of stock solution developer.
Again, you can increase the amount depending on the fog intensity of the paper.
Potassium bromide : 50g;
Add 50ml of 10% potassium bromide solution per liter of stock solution developer.
Add 25ml of 10% potassium bromide solution per 500ml of stock solution developer.
Again, you can increase the amount depending on the fog intensity of the paper.
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harrygrey382
Well-Known Member
Yeah bit of a rude sidetrack, but it's good info! I reckon the mixer'd work pretty well if I tried a motor mix. Not much good if I wanted to lay more than one brick though...
Excellent, thanks for that info. I'll give it a go. I was hoping to find some way of tackling the use by problem. Does that MCC111 come in matt?
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