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Thread: waterproofing floors/walls etc for butchering

  1. #1

    waterproofing floors/walls etc for butchering

    I am moving house next month and, as a result, will have to build an outdoor shed for the butchering of my deer. Currently I use a garage which is up to standard to get me my venison dealer license however there will be no garage at the new place so a shed it will have to be.

    I am looking for experiences and ideas from people on the site who have done similar to keep hygiene levels at a max.

    My current equipment such as stainless table and sink will be moving with me but I need ideas on wall and floor coverings, drains etc.

    Photos to would be great. I may also change my chiller setup from a double coke fridge o upright chiller.

    Similarly, if anyone can tell me the size in cubic feet of their current chiller setup I would be interested to hear.



  2. #2
    A bit off topic, is this certification hard to achieve?
    Is there a link to give some common sense requirements.
    Potable water and drain, stainless surfaces and easy clean walls and rodent prevention is what I am aware of, and what else?

  3. #3
    PM griff, he has an excellent new set-up and would be able to give good, first hand advice.

  4. #4
    Shed wise I am an expert. I had better be. It was my business for 20 years. Still do the odd one in retirement. If you are doing it DIY give me your sizes and I will sketch out sections and "cutting to minimise waste" plans. Depending on perminance concrete floor is best with gradients to drain point. NLDMG has a nice floor on theirs. Dependent on usage a painted wall to wash/spay down is sufficient. That is all that is in Atholl estates deer larder. At best practice it was commented on and the instructor from food standards agency pointed out the fully tiled or rendered walls are a mith. Provided they are waterproofed and can be washed down is sufficient. Frame up and ply line would be my suggestion. Any accidental damage is then easily and cheaply repaired. It also lends itself to easy change of use. My own larder is lino floored with with the lino turned up the walls. Water is flushed out the door to the drain.

  5. #5
    PM griff, he has an excellent new set-up and would be able to give good, first hand advice.

    Will do

    An outbuilding which my Father uses to extract and bottle honey is where I hang the deer. The walls are painted and the ceiling is plasterboard. There is no water supply or drainage, but that is a little tricky but could be possible with some work. I have no chiller nor mincer.
    I have seen plastic coated walls and the plastic screen strips to separate an area in a garage from the rest of it.
    I am sick of getting 1/lb for the deer when the butchers sell it for 18/Kg albeit for the legs. I am chucking money away. My butchery skills are rudimentary but could be improved with practice.
    Last edited by jack; 12-03-2011 at 15:19.

  6. #6
    We use this stuff or a generic version when we do Hospitals and Kitchens, on the walls and sometimes the ceilings.

    Floors I would think would have to be Ceramic or Slate tiles or Painted Concrete


  7. #7
    Account Suspended
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    North Yorkshire
    Clad your walls with this and gloss paint it with a few coats

    Knauf Drywall - Aquapanel - Drywall for Wet Areas

  8. #8
    I'm just finishing off my larder and bringing it up to EHO standards. I have built a 26'x10' timber-framed outbuilding at the top of my garden - the side and rear walls are clad with steel profile panels and the front in faced in tanalised featheredge board for aesthetic reasons. The larder area is 19'x10', as I also made space for a small reloading room and I have just added a further extension to house my 6'x6'x7' Porrka cold store (bought locally 2nd hand for 300). I've designed the layout so that there is a separate area for handling carcasses in the skin, away from the area where the butchery happens, divided by one of those heavy PVC strip curtains.

    The inside walls are all lined out with OSB and are being tiled with standard white 6" ceramic tiles, which my local EHO seemed happy enough with. The floors are concrete, and about to be painted with latex floor paint. The concrete was screeded with latex self-levelling compound to give a seamless joint with the walls. When I laid the floor, I put in a drain to a deep soak-away but the sinks are plumbed back to the domestic foul drain system using 25mm alkathene pipe and an old Saniflo macerator pump that a mate had lying around. Cold water is plumbed direct from the house rising main using more 25mm pipe - I'm about to build a new garden wall, so when I do, I'll drop both in-flow and out-flow pipes into the footings trench to protect them from freexing in the winter. Power is courtesy of a separate consumer unit, running back to the household circuit board via armoured cable.

    The last job to do is to install the electric hoist and a full length rail - I'm using an 18' galvanised I-beam RSJ with a trolley. Oh, and put the new hanging frame into the chiller - I've used reclaimed scaffold poles and key clamps, which are all being powder-coated white. Total cost of the whole set-up so far is about 400, as most of the material were scrounged, recycled or swapped for the odd lump of venison. It also helped that my shooting buddy Howie is a competent builder and electrician - I now owe him some serious favours!

    Last edited by Adamant; 12-03-2011 at 23:26. Reason: Spelling

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