Modern House Construction

Harry mac

Well-Known Member
I think you can all guess where this is going. We are currently considering moving house, and if possible, buying a new/recent build. Of the ones we've so far viewed very few if any seem to have walls sturdy enough to mount a gun cabinet to. Even the walls which are evidently "fabric of the building" seem to be clad in plaster board with a gap between the board and the wall, rather than plastered directly onto the masonry. How does one go about installing a cabinet in houses like this to the satisfaction of the police. I'll be seeking advice from my FEO after the week end, but wondered if anyone on the site had encountered similar circumstances.
 
There are many methods available, with bolts the builder use for attaching frames etc to the new builds A hole is drilled , a plastic tube is mashed in & the bolt attached. It will literally pull a huse down. See you builders merchant :)

dont be too agresive attaching, as the breeze blocks can shatter !! If the house is built to its best concrete blocks will be used as an alternative, on your 'dream' home
 
Harry, I got some extra long rawl bolts which go through the plasterboard, through the thermalite blocks and into the exterior brickwork! Careful measuring required though!;) A good squirt of 'No more nails' or similar into the hole also helps to prevent crumbling.
Also a couple of large screw into the 22mm chipboard floor for good measure!
Hope that helps.
MS:)
 
Thanks to all for the replies. It's good to know there's ways round it that don't involve major remodeling work.
 
No worries Harry.

I had the same problem as MS said Extra Long Rawlbolts, did'nt see the point of the screws though when Rawlbolts

are rock solid as you's all know.

Atb Buck.

PS. All the best in the New House, Her indoors will keep you BUSY!!! :D
 
Have thought about this when looking at houses myself - best thought I could come up with was to bolt the cabinet flat to the floor in the understair cupboard, so the rifles are laid flat, and you access them from the top. Al least there's no longer any worries about knocking one over when you're getting another out.
 
Even the walls which are evidently "fabric of the building" seem to be clad in plaster board with a gap between the board and the wall

Can you not recess the cabinet into the plasterboard so it is flat against the blockwork?
 
harry if the house is timber frame you will have 7or 8 inches from the face of plasterboard to the back off the facinc bricks you can use threaded bar and an epoxy resin avaliable from most builders merchants or alternativelly cut back plasterboard to shape of cabinet and bolt directly to timber frame
 
If drilling through the cavity to the exterior wall on a new build you be creating a conceived damp problem, which could null invoid your builders guarantee. Plasterboard bolts and no nails:D
 
Can you not recess the cabinet into the plasterboard so it is flat against the blockwork?

The new houses now use 'Thermalite' blockwork which is fine to support walls, but is probably the equivalent of cheddar cheese when it comes to securing bolts or similar.:( The older clinker type breeze blocks are what most people are used to. Very few timber framed around here now either.
 
Same construction as my place, Harry.
4 long expanders into the concrete floor and 2 bolts through the rear cavity wall and backed with a metal plate with the bolt heads captive in the plate with the nylon lock nuts in the cabinet.
 
i live in a log cabin type 2 bed bungalow on the shoot all wood construction walls being skimmed ply ,very warm in winter ! i have a large cabinet in a spare room layed on the floor with a sheet of chequer plate larger than the cabinet under it all screwed down to the wood floor with bolt head screws loads of them ! fao had no problem at all .:D
 
spot on! its how mines fixed, if you are going to worry about someone breaking out the fixings then no system is totally failsafe, in themalite block you are better using resin than Rawlbolts as the Rawlbolts exert outward pressure from the hole causing the block to crumble and fail if overtightened, the resin fixings are so strong the block will fail first :D
 
Harry mac as usual everyone has an opinion mostly wrong:doh: without correctly reading your discrption of the type of construction:coat:
as having spent too many years in the constrution industry the correct way would be to work out the block thickness
normally 100 or 150mm then buy some thunderbolts(trade name)or go to scwrewfix cat look at Concrete screws & anchors page43 buy flanged head conc screws I suggest 10x80would be best .do not over tighten they will hold in most blocks if you over do it then you have to buy resin.:old:
 
I Built a new extension instead of internal walls being 100mm they were built using 150mm concrete blocks, even the building in spector asked why I was building the internal walls out of 150mm concrete block when I didn't have, to so I told him that I thought it held the roof up better and away he went happy, and the cabinets are going nowhere.
 
Chemical fixings will do the job nicely or Hilti anchor bolts if you are unsure give me a shout and I will come over with a Hilti rep if necessary and give my advice on the matter maybe even do the job if you are not confident.
 
If it's timber framed try and find a timber upright if it's block you can use resin fixings which bums and qeeers sell (bq) or drill straight in to the block and knock the plug straight into the block.

Aid
 
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