# Thread: Converting MOA to inches for holdover value

1. ## Converting MOA to inches for holdover value

Hi

I struggle with understanding MOA and other such ballistic ranging terms. What's works for me is knowing at 300 yards I need to hold over 8inches or whatever.

I recently brought a leica rangemaster 1600 with a ballistic calculator in it. I fully appreciate these are probably inaccurate and not to be trusted until tried and tested and not really needed in stalking. This is more for holes in paper and a bit of fun, however.... It gives a hold over value in MOA or MRad.

Reading stuff online most sights say if your zeroed at 100yards then it's basically one inch is 1 MOA every 100 yards so 2moa 200 yards and so on to 5moa 500 yards.

Now theres every chance, in fact I'm sure I'm being thick here and probably missing something. Basically all I want to know is if I laser a target and it says holder is 5, 8 or 10 or whichever moa how do I covet MOA to inches?

Many thanks

Ps I have standard 8x56 scopes on my centrefire rifles

2. (distance in yards multiplied by MOA value) divided by 100

eg (300y x 2moa) / 100 = 6"

problem is knowing what 6" looks like at 300Y - it gets worse as you get further away. you need graduated reticle or target turrets me thinks!

3. 1 MOA = 1.047" at 100 yds

Simplistically

At 300 yds 1 MOA = 3.14"

At 500 yds 1 MOA = 5.23"

At 1000 yds 1 MOA = 10.47"

If your using holdover, you are estimating the drop to correct for on target.

(so, for example, you come across a shootable animal at 300 yds, your drop is 8 inches, you judge / estimate that distance thru the scope and hope for the best.....)

If your scope has MOA turrets then your better to dial in the drop

However, if your scope has metric turrets (CM click ajustment), your better working in metres and Milrad ajustment........

Just noted you have standard 8x56 scopes:

IMHO, better to have 200 yds zero and limit yourself to range which the parabola of the projectile remains within a 4"

( eg 200 yd zero, - 2 inch high at 100, zero at 200, 4 inch drop at 300)

So you limit your shots to 300....

4. Its well worth taking the time on a nice still day to actually shoot your drop chart, i use a target on a piece of wall paper approx a metre long, put your 100m taget at the top, then get your mate to walk it back at 25m increments marking distance as you go until the shots drop off the paper,i use this method and convert to Moa for the clicks on my scope,copy info onto a card and away you jolly well go
This is the way forward without having to go down the chronogragh route to find the speed o a paticular bullet plus other info needed to use a ballistic callculator....

I used both methods when creating a drop chart for my 6mmbr, it was very pleasing when my proven shots lined up within A BA HAIR with the ballistic callculator i used right out to 500...

5. Originally Posted by nell
Its well worth taking the time on a nice still day to actually shoot your drop chart, i use a target on a piece of wall paper approx a metre long, put your 100m taget at the top, then get your mate to walk it back at 25m increments marking distance as you go until the shots drop off the paper,i use this method and convert to Moa for the clicks on my scope,copy info onto a card and away you jolly well go
This is the way forward without having to go down the chronogragh route to find the speed o a paticular bullet plus other info needed to use a ballistic callculator....

I used both methods when creating a drop chart for my 6mmbr, it was very pleasing when my proven shots lined up within A BA HAIR with the ballistic callculator i used right out to 500...
I'm liking this method - the calcs hurt my head

6. Remember your avarage 8x56 scope has .5 moa crosshairs, if your reaching out there's a lot of error behind the cross. Maybe not an issue on bigger deer but on that 400y fox.................

7. Thanks for the replies. All good points raised. Redmist you have actually made MOA a little clearer for me. But I much prefer knowing inches and cm to dial in or hold over. I've just got a 22.250 and will use it for vermin and mr fox hence why I wanted the range finder.

Gary your spot on with your points, that's something I have noticed with my S&B 8x56's.

I want to get a scope for the 22.250 with a suitable reticule or bdc turreted scope but to be honest it's a head ache deciding what to go for. I like Swarovski BT series, they sound the simplest to use or perhaps an S&B varmint scope with BDC turrets where I believe you just dial the actual drop you want say 10cm etc seems much simpler than MOA. Or the Zeiss top line ones but they are all second focal point I believe which if I'm right that's even more stuff to get confused about!

Cheers guys.

8. Originally Posted by purdeydog
Thanks for the replies. All good points raised. Redmist you have actually made MOA a little clearer for me. But I much prefer knowing inches and cm to dial in or hold over. I've just got a 22.250 and will use it for vermin and mr fox hence why I wanted the range finder.

Gary your spot on with your points, that's something I have noticed with my S&B 8x56's.

I want to get a scope for the 22.250 with a suitable reticule or bdc turreted scope but to be honest it's a head ache deciding what to go for. I like Swarovski BT series, they sound the simplest to use or perhaps an S&B varmint scope with BDC turrets where I believe you just dial the actual drop you want say 10cm etc seems much simpler than MOA. Or the Zeiss top line ones but they are all second focal point I believe which if I'm right that's even more stuff to get confused about!

Cheers guys.
Send your S&B to their german service centre (Fao: Sabine Brandt), and for around £120 they will install a metric elevation turret (BDC) that will do exactly what you require. all you need to do is have a dope chart prepared.

9. Originally Posted by purdeydog
Thanks for the replies. All good points raised. Redmist you have actually made MOA a little clearer for me. But I much prefer knowing inches and cm to dial in or hold over. I've just got a 22.250 and will use it for vermin and mr fox hence why I wanted the range finder.

Gary your spot on with your points, that's something I have noticed with my S&B 8x56's.

I want to get a scope for the 22.250 with a suitable reticule or bdc turreted scope but to be honest it's a head ache deciding what to go for. I like Swarovski BT series, they sound the simplest to use or perhaps an S&B varmint scope with BDC turrets where I believe you just dial the actual drop you want say 10cm etc seems much simpler than MOA. Or the Zeiss top line ones but they are all second focal point I believe which if I'm right that's even more stuff to get confused about!

Cheers guys.
Send your S&B to their german service centre (Fao: Sabine Brandt), and for around £120 they will install a metric elevation turret (BDC) that will do exactly what you require. all you need to do is have a dope chart prepared.

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