I asked in another post about barrel bluing but thought I would start a thread on my latest project.
I picked up a very tired and somewhat battered John Dickson variant of a Parker Hale 1200 in .270 for an absolute steal.
The barrel is as far as I can see "as new". mint, crisp rifling and throat, few scratches on the outer crown but nothing to worry me.
Blueing was wearing away in all the usual spots.
Action cycled easily and there was barely any wear on the rub strip where the bolt slides leading me to believe that the low use barrel was confirmed as such.
The wood was still sheathed in its horrible if somewhat chipped and battered factory varnish and this is what immediately let it down.
As all blokes who like messing with tools will do, I stripped it down to its constituent components within seconds of getting indoors!!
I will take and post pictures of the metalwork later but I foolishly didn't take a picture of it in its entire original condition such was my haste to "get tore in"!
having read up and now proclaim myself an internet expert and received a great deal of PM advise from a very kind chap on here I set about getting tooled up with the various hardware and consumables to sort the furniture.
nitromors paint stripper
sand paper (various grades)
assorted blocks, dowels, corks and things to wrap sand paper round
orbital (random motion) sander
toothbrush, nail bruch, soft paint brush.
wood stain of appropriate colour (make sure you get the dye type rather than the paint type)
English Walnut Oil Preparation (its not just oil, that will get sticky on hot days)
having finally managed to get the manky old butt pad off I hung up the naked stock and slavvered it with nitromors taking care to keep it moving to assist in the "lifting".
once fully blistered and stripped I washed it (in the bath if you must know...not advisable unless you live alone which I don't!).
I took a tooth brush of medium consistency with some soap to the checkering to get rid of 50 years of dead skin and crud out.
left to dry in a warmish but not overly warm room to dry over a day or so.
once dry I hit the dings and dents with the proven "iron over wet cloth" treatment to steam out as much of the dents as possible.
Once dry I then set about with the sand paper, taking care not to hit the checkering and keeping the strokes with the grain.
once mostly done I hit it with a fine grade on the orbital sander to polish it up.
looks quite sorry for itself in this state:
Once dried and dusted (having a compressor and airline helps but) a good brush out of the checkering with the soft brush does the job.
with a certain amount of trepidation I hit the wood with a small piece of rag soaked in stain.
It soaks in very quickly and it is easy to see when too much has been applied as it seems to dry like a paint ON the surface rather than IN it.
I used a toothbrush to apply to the checkering and then wiped immediately to stop the surrounding areas getting darker.
left to dry, couple of patches were given a tad more colour to bring them up to the same overall tone.
left to dry again in a mildly warm room for a day. I then decided to wing it from the advice and I rubbed the wood down with fine grade wire wool.
This turned out to be a master stroke as it not only polished up the wood, got rid of excess dye but it gives the illusion of slight ageing on the corners and edges that would naturally be worn.
I then decided to stray from the norm again and avoid the grain filler. the wood is very smooth and I really didnt like the idea of the dings and marks I couldn't steam out getting filled with what is really just a filler.
so on to the first coating of the magic walnut oil.
applied with the hands to give some warmth to the process and surprisingly theraputic.
apparently the course of action is to apply:
once a day for a week
once a week for a month
once a month for a year
still looks a bit wet in the pictures but since I took them it looks great. photos dont do it justice but I will do a few more applications and add the pictures.
few weeks of this will give me time to find a decent recoil pad!
still have a while to go on the metal work before it is put back together.
more on the metal later