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Thread: Browning T-bolt aftermarket trigger

  1. #1

    Browning T-bolt aftermarket trigger

    Wonder if anyone can help me? My father has recently bought the above rifle in 17hmr, and is finding the trigger a touch too heavy. Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket unit available, supplier, cost etc? He has adjusted as much as possible but it is still too heavy for his liking. Thanks in advance for any help.

    Atb Lee

  2. #2
    I looked into this when I considered buying one, nothing available then, and not heard about anything since.
    I didn't buy one for this reason, and a trigger group should be made of steel not plastic.


  3. #3
    There isn't an aftermarket trigger, unfortunately you can screw it down to 3.5 lbs. or as Browing say, you can lower the trigger as LOW as 3.5lbs. Whoofeicinhoo.
    There is a way of modding it. Go over to rimfire central and have a look. But if you ease it off to much you bolt will come out all the way as the tension holds the bolt lock thingie.

    I have a spare trigger that I have access to and I am hoping to to play with it to get the tension down to about 2lb. See how my hangover is on Sunday as to whether I get to do it or not. Other that that I really like the rifle. I am finding I can head and neck shoot bunnies out to 80 yards, beyond that I get wobble attacks and don't feel confidant and that is down to the trigger as far as I am concerned.

    As an aside I had the same problem with my X-Bolt. After fiddling I decided, feic it. Variation in and getting a Tikka instead. I like Brownings but will not be buying another until they sort out their damn triggers.
    I can speak in-depth and with great knowledge about most subjects until some bugger who actually knows what he is speaking about opens his gob .

  4. #4
    Thanks very much for taking time to reply TSS, will check out rimfire central asap. Would be very greatful if you stay tee-total on Saturday , so you dont feel too on Sunday. Please post a thread to let me/us know how you get on?? I'm sure there will be a few others on here interested in your results. Thanks again.

    ATB Lee
    Last edited by leej; 11-01-2012 at 13:31.

  5. #5
    Here is the link and the text below comes from the same website not from me.

    *Be sure that the gun is unloaded and the bolt is removed.*
    I do not recommend doing anything that I have written here. This is just to explain what I have done myself to attain certain results from my own particular rifle.

    To get to the trigger , sear, and trigger spring you will have to ask yourself if you want to break the *Warning* seal located just behind the trigger , visible when you remove the action from the stock. That being said you can loosen the screw underneath it using a 3/32nd allen wrench, which should be the same one you used to take the barreled action out of the stock. Lift up ever so slightly on the rear of the trigger housing to clear the bolt you just loosened and gently slide the housing forward and you can remove it from the barrel making it easier to work on. Looking at the assembly you can see the sear/trigger engagement through the hole furthest forward. The next hole more toward the center of the housing shows you another engagement that is associated with the safety.
    To get the housing open look on the right side of the housing and you will see where there are 3 tabs that you can press in. Then carefully separate and remove the left side of the housing. There aren’t really any springs that will fly out. Just keep the assembly level (right side down) as you take off the left side so you don’t dump anything by accident.
    Once open you will see the trigger spring on the lower left. It is only one of 3 springs in the whole assembly and only one of 2 that are immediately visible, the other visible one is located by the safety and that one can fly out if you’re not careful, but it is easily managed. By applying a little downward pressure to the top of the chromed(?) part of the bolt guide, disengaging the safety, and pulling the trigger , you can see how the trigger works and sear engages. Taking your finger off the chromed part after resetting the trigger , engaging the safety, and pressing the bolt release part of the guide will show you how the second engagement of the trigger/sear works.
    If this does not engage properly with enough pressure from the spring your bolt will not be held in place and slide out when the safety is engaged. Operating the safety you can see how the safety engagement I mentioned earlier works. When the safety is in the off position the lower part of that assembly should drop away slightly from the engagement when you press the trigger . If this doesn’t happen the firing pin will not be able to strike the cartridge when the trigger is pulled.
    The first and easiest thing I worked on was the spring. First I loosened the trigger pull adjustment screw until it was out just past flush to take pressure off of the spring. The spring can now be pulled straight up with little pressure and the pin that it is on can also be pulled straight up. Once removed I put the spring back on the pin for support and bent the long side of the spring in the same direction as the coils by just a hair, adding additional tightness to the coils to decrease the pressure on the trigger , and just so there was enough pressure to keep it in place once it was reassembled. Trigger pull adjustment via the set screw was more usable to me now. By just doing this alone you can get the trigger pull down a fair amount. But here’s the kicker. If you don’t have sufficient spring pressure, the bolt release sear may not hold “satisfactorily”, meaning, that if you put your gun on safe and your bolt is open, it may slide out without you wanting it to. You’ll need to check this with bump tests and by trying to jiggle the bolt out without pressing the release while on safe. If you have this problem what you can do is to just turn in the trigger pull adjusting screw increasing spring pressure until it is satisfactory for you. What I did was to make that contact a little sharper and a little deeper by just thousandths. Less spring force was then needed to maintain contact. This restored the amount of force that was originally there when I pressed the bolt release for the first time.
    To get to the rest of the parts remove the safety spring and then all of the pins (4 in total). Remove the safety slide button and you should be able to gently slide the trigger components out.
    Take note of the parts and their positions. A tiny spring is connected from the bolt guide/release to the safety lever. Because I made the bolt release sear deeper, I also increased the creep. I then proceeded to take out that little bit of creep (careful not to make the bolt release sear contact shallow also) and polish the trigger sear. Polishing the trigger sear will cause the bolt guide/release to drop a small amount and may have an adverse effect on the safety contact causing it to stick, consequently requiring that it too be stoned slightly to free it up. The biggest thing is realizing that changing one component may/will invariably have an effect on another component.
    To reassemble, start with the components that go inside of the trigger . Take note that the position of the safety lever is correct, (it mates with the other part) and that the holes line up and insert the pin to hold them in place. Just lay the trigger sear in loosely and slide the assembly back into the housing, seating the pin in its respective hole.
    Now install the safety slide button and the remaining pins and springs. Check the operation of everything, especially the safety slide button. If it doesn’t move don’t force it. Simply take out the safety spring, reposition the safety button (on or off), and try it again. While I had everything apart I cleaned the parts and re-lubed with Corrosion X (mainly for rust protection). I lubed and then thoroughly wiped dry the sear engagements. The side cover just snaps back in place. Although, the plastic seems sturdy, I don’t think that it’s Glock or Sig polymer, so disassembly of this nature should be kept to a minimum to prevent wear, as would the disassembly of the stock from the barreled action because it is bedded nice and tight. Once everything is together, check it again and again for proper function and safety.

    Well, there you have it. I don’t have a parts diagram so I’m sure I don’t have some, or any of the parts names correct, but I tried to name them according to their function or what would seem intuitive (to me at least). After gathering so much information from this forum myself, I hope that I’ve contributed something back that someone else may have found useful someday.
    I can speak in-depth and with great knowledge about most subjects until some bugger who actually knows what he is speaking about opens his gob .

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