Rat trap designs/plans

adjman

Well-Known Member
My sister is having serious problems with rats at her house. I have knocked a few over with the .22 air rifle but they are all over the place. My third nephew is a dab hand with woodworking and DIY and I would love to find some plans for a rat trap that he could make.

I wonder if anyone has such a thing or could point me in the right direction for some plans he could use to make up some traps to try and get rid of the problem?
 
In my experience you only normally catch the odd one in traps mate.
We used to put fenns in tunnels all around the grain store, after a week you might catch one, but then it could be a week or more before you would catch again.
I dont like to use poison but we had a bit of a problem this time so had to.
Even tried gassing the bloody things first, did it twice and they were still there.
Using poison still took a fortnight to get on top of them, one or two still about now.

Good luck, whatever you do.
 
Had a similar problem some time back and got a mate who researched the internet and rigged up a very effective home made trap.
It was basically a large plastic bin which was sunk into the ground and 3/4 filled with water.
About 2" from the top there was a wooden pole like a brush handle fitted across through 2 holes. The pole could turn easily and in the middle of the pole was a small piece of wood near the centre, like an off centre see saw.
Around the sides of the plastic bin, on the pole and the piece of wood there was bait like peanut butter smeared.
The rat walked across the pole and when it went onto the see saw bit, was tipped into the water.
It caught 3 within a day but the missus freaked out when she realised the rats were being drowned and the trap had to go.
 
Maybe try several options.
I have used a battery powered electrical plate against a wall (needs to stay dry(ish) so covered) or fence. baited with peanut butter . Ratty comes looking for goodies and is zapped stone dead. Plate turns off and ready to reset. You need a bit of bait on the outside as they come sniffing around before entering the death zone.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Procter-Bro...I3YW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329243433&sr=8-1


The other possibility is to find a bait box. usually prebaited to keep the poison away from non-target species. Countrywide stores usually carry em . You may need a few though!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rentokil-PSR107-Rat-Killer-Box/dp/B000TAT8S6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=outdoors&ie=UTF8&qid=132924

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pest-Mouse-Killer-Loose-Wheat-Based/dp/B000YPTGWE/ref=pd_bxgy_lp_text_b

hope that helps?>

Fraser
 
hi

like the guy abov says if there is a infest of rats the only way to get on top is some gd poison down is the only way.
 
Hi
Buy plenty of Rat Sticky Boards if you do not want to use poison, if memory serves me you get approx 12-15 boards in a box and they are approx 10" x 5" but you have to check them regular as they can eat there way off of them.
They do work really well where your limited with baiting indoors, but they will work outdoors as well just cover them up from the weather.
ATB
Wullie.
 
As is becoming clear there is no one method that will eliminate the problem. From the sounds of it you are going to have to throw everything at it, trapping, shooting and full on poison programme. Do something, anything, and quickly as rats populations can grow very quickly.
 
A old pal of mine with a smallholding, says there's not a rat alive that can resist peanut butter on a trap. !!!

Rgds, Buck.
 
Hi Guys

First thing , try not to disturb them, 2nd thing proof any holes and where poss find the way they are getting access to the house and proof it all off and remove any obvious food source and water as much as possible. they could be climbing a tree and running across the guttering or roof getting in under a tile or have come up the sewer pipe into the void between the inner and outer walls or through a hole in the wall check all areas for signs and smear marks.

Rats carry loads of infectious rubbish ensure you wear gloves etc when undertaking the work and if there is evidence of activity in the kitchen or living areas sanitise work tops etc and block off access holes etc

Assuming the activity is throughout parts of the house, the roof void or loft is the prime area for the nest etc so inspect to locate best point of activity if we say it is the loft area which is secure and free from disturbance from non target species of animals.

Rats have to have a drink, cover open water tanks, reduce any poss available food source and first point of call use mechanical traps, always fix into position with a piece of wire if they are skitzo, they do not like change , leave things as normal as possible pre bait the traps on non catch mode with corn and put a drink station in an area they use and let them settle down, leave the water in situ and set the traps to catch, make sure the mk4 fenns (these are brilliant) are installed in the runs, if needs be put a smear of peanut butter on the trap and sprinkle wheat on this and just leave it to adhere to the plate, it is a game of patience, always watch to see any new runs coming along and adjust traps accordingly YOU MUST CHECK THE TRAPS AT LEAST TWICE A DAY. trapping takes longer and is time consuming, but you see the result and there is no risk of a dead one popping off in a wall cavity and stinking the place out.

All mechanical traps must be covered by a cage to stop non target species getting caught, this even applies to the loft area as well as all other places, this would be the first point of action to remove the problem, when you have removed the rodents any obvious runs place some fine sand or flour on the runs and inspect regularly to ensure you haven't missed any.

if you keep getting a new flurry, you need to find the entry point and seal it off - very important as they will keep coming back, could be just running up the sewer into a broken pipe, unless you find the access point it won't stop.

If you resort to rodenticide, make sure it is a safe area to use (preferably in a tamper resistant monitor) and no non target species can get to it and importantly make sure it is fixed in position as they will remove bait and stash somewhere and you think they have eaten it all, the amatuer rodenticide such as bromodiolone, Difenacoum are two feed applications, you need to inspect and refill on a regular basis and if the activity has not greatly reduced or gone after 28 days , call in a professional. you may need different bait formulation to complete eradication and further proofing investigation

Hope this of some help

Phil
 
if there in and around a house do not mess about . Rats need harbourage and food , remove any rubbish they maybe living in or under and take away all food sources . Rats have neophobia , a fear of new things introduced into an area , so traps are not alot of use once you have a population . Gassing gives a quick knock down , but you need a trained opperator and it cant be used within 3 meters of buildings . tidy up remove food and place bait stations about the place , if their inside the house or buildings you can get ultrasonic devices to make them move out , this and regular baiting will get rid of them . Once their gone place perminant bait stations or tunnel traps to deal with new comers . Do not delay deal with them now
 
Thank you so much for all the ideas chaps - brilliant - I shall get going on these options right away :)
 
Only problem with the poison is where the rats actually die.

We had a problem at the works' offices so they decided to use poison.
Worked great on the rats!
Which died under the flooring and created a fly infestation on the ground floor.
Cue having to get the flooring lifted and dead rats removed.

Ed
 
Only problem with the poison is where the rats actually die.

We had a problem at the works' offices so they decided to use poison.
Worked great on the rats!
Which died under the flooring and created a fly infestation on the ground floor.
Cue having to get the flooring lifted and dead rats removed.

Ed


Nice :doh: I bet that was a prestige working environment for a while, pongo and flies for lunch :rofl: sounds like an abandonment of the 6 p's
 
Hi Guys

First thing , try not to disturb them, 2nd thing proof any holes and where poss find the way they are getting access to the house and proof it all off and remove any obvious food source and water as much as possible. they could be climbing a tree and running across the guttering or roof getting in under a tile or have come up the sewer pipe into the void between the inner and outer walls or through a hole in the wall check all areas for signs and smear marks.

Rats carry loads of infectious rubbish ensure you wear gloves etc when undertaking the work and if there is evidence of activity in the kitchen or living areas sanitise work tops etc and block off access holes etc

Assuming the activity is throughout parts of the house, the roof void or loft is the prime area for the nest etc so inspect to locate best point of activity if we say it is the loft area which is secure and free from disturbance from non target species of animals.

Rats have to have a drink, cover open water tanks, reduce any poss available food source and first point of call use mechanical traps, always fix into position with a piece of wire if they are skitzo, they do not like change , leave things as normal as possible pre bait the traps on non catch mode with corn and put a drink station in an area they use and let them settle down, leave the water in situ and set the traps to catch, make sure the mk4 fenns (these are brilliant) are installed in the runs, if needs be put a smear of peanut butter on the trap and sprinkle wheat on this and just leave it to adhere to the plate, it is a game of patience, always watch to see any new runs coming along and adjust traps accordingly YOU MUST CHECK THE TRAPS AT LEAST TWICE A DAY. trapping takes longer and is time consuming, but you see the result and there is no risk of a dead one popping off in a wall cavity and stinking the place out.

All mechanical traps must be covered by a cage to stop non target species getting caught, this even applies to the loft area as well as all other places, this would be the first point of action to remove the problem, when you have removed the rodents any obvious runs place some fine sand or flour on the runs and inspect regularly to ensure you haven't missed any.

if you keep getting a new flurry, you need to find the entry point and seal it off - very important as they will keep coming back, could be just running up the sewer into a broken pipe, unless you find the access point it won't stop.

If you resort to rodenticide, make sure it is a safe area to use (preferably in a tamper resistant monitor) and no non target species can get to it and importantly make sure it is fixed in position as they will remove bait and stash somewhere and you think they have eaten it all, the amatuer rodenticide such as bromodiolone, Difenacoum are two feed applications, you need to inspect and refill on a regular basis and if the activity has not greatly reduced or gone after 28 days , call in a professional. you may need different bait formulation to complete eradication and further proofing investigation

Hope this of some help

Phil


+1 this is the the dogs nuts , i do it this way and done very well in the last 10 years ps (CRUNCHY PEANUT BUTTER) they love it !!16-01-07_1537.jpg
 
ultrasonic devices available from most farm supply stores work by sending a signal around the electrical wiring in buildings , this irrates rodents and they will not live in the building , they may investigate the house but wont live in it . Fit one , they just plug in abd are only as big as a phone charger , find and block any points of entry , then get your bait out . Wax blocks , grain baits , gel baits , tracking powder or a mixture of any or all of the above will work . Get them out the house and kill them now
 
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