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Thread: Parker Hale trigger.

  1. #1

    Parker Hale trigger.

    my Parker Hale 1200 Safari has an awful trigger. I was thinking along the timny trigger for a replacment. Would appriciate comments from anyone who has replaced thier triggers and what they replaced with.
    Thanks, Tusker.

  2. #2
    Timney seems to get good review, the Shillen units seem to have more problems.
    Apparently you need the exact model to fit your cocking unit.
    another thread on here about it.

    I have just rebuilt a PH trigger which feels great, polished sear, polished trigger, polished the tip to the tension piece, cleaned and shiney insde and out,
    only problem is it needs a re-profiled sear to work with my bolt/cocking peice!

    if you do replace yours I might be interested in the factory one

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by tusker View Post
    my Parker Hale 1200 Safari has an awful trigger. I was thinking along the timny trigger for a replacment. Would appriciate comments from anyone who has replaced thier triggers and what they replaced with.
    Thanks, Tusker.
    The real P-H Safaris could be had with one of three trigger options the Std two stage Mauser trigger, the P-H Timney type and a double sett trigger.

    So which does yours have?

  4. #4
    Hi Brithunter, I think its the std 2 stage Mauser trigger.

  5. #5
    Ahh then they can be worked on quite simply. First step in lightening them is to remove a bit of length on the coil sear spring this lightens the pull for a start. remove no more than one coil. half a coil is best. I use the side face of a bench grinder to keep it flat. Touch it on and once it starts getting hot dip it into a container, bean tin works, of water. Slowly does it.

    I'll bet after all these years the face of the cocking piece has a small indetation worn into the face. this needs polishing with a fine stone to remove it. keep the angle the same. if one is careful the actual height of the sear cane be reduced slightly this in turn reduces to amount of engagement and length of trigger travel to release the sear so it must be done carefully with safety in mind. Too much and the safety will not engage and the trigger could be jarred off the cocked position.

    generally polishing the mating surfaces and making sure they are clean will vastly improve the feel of the pull.

    There are also after market direct replacements for the Mauser two stage military type some are adjustable some are just to make them single stage. If I was closer I would show you what to look for and how to clean it up. Over the years I have done several of them.

  6. #6
    My local gunsmiths have told me there is nothing that can be done for my trigger. I dont believe them so can anyone reccomend someone in Sussex that could do the job for me?
    Many thanks, Tusker.

  7. #7
    Whilst not in Sussex Fultons of Bisley could do it. if they will or not is another matter. david if he is still there was good on the old triggers.

    Another option would be to phone Ron Wharton of Rigbys and ask him.

    The old chap from lewis retired but I believe is still tinkering with stuff as a sort of past time. He is a fully trained armourer I would need to contact Chris of Smith Arms in Essex to ask to make sure though as I know he still sees him and they often travel together to the HBSA meetings in London.

    May I ask whom the gunsmith was?

  8. #8
    Tusker, I have a two stage PH on my 270, I just sorted the trigger.
    some 2500 grit wet and dry on the mating surfaces of the sear and cocking piece on the bolt and a grinding wheel nipping a coil at a time between refit and test.

    IMO tinkering with the standard two stage trigger is infinitely safer than lightening the spring on the standard adjustable trigger unit.
    the spring has no bearing on the sear being held in place and a slam fire would be difficult to reproduce on even the lightest of two stage triggers.

  9. #9
    First thing to do is strip and carefully examine the parts. often after extended time and use the cocking piece (firing pin nut) develops a slight crater in it's face which sure does not help the feel of the trigger.. Keeping the same angle polish this flat to remove the dimple/crater.

    Also polish the underside of the receiver/action where the trigger pivots and the two humps on the trigger blade at the top. if the first stage pull is a bit too heavy the sears coil spring can be reduced in length slightly. This will lighten the first stage. Keeping the angles to same polish the face of the triggers sear engagement surface. You want to polish up and down not side to side so any tiny lines left as going in the direction the sear drags up the face this will make it feel smoother than if your dragging over these fine lines.

    I use a medium then fine oil stone to do this.

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