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Thread: New/Modern Chainsaws, u plug into the computer

  1. #1

    New/Modern Chainsaws, u plug into the computer

    I had a bad day at work on friday 3 saws and a climbing saw in the back of pick up, all 3 ground saws decied to pack in or play silly buggers which were all going well before ; went to replace a spark plug in 1 only to find both my new spark plug boxes were filled with old plugs (be gettin chucked in the bin from now on) On the plus side i've managed to get 2 going again very little wrong with them.

    So past few nites been looking throu some glossy online brochures for Husky and Stihl saws as i need a big reliable saw, and then looking at the price tags.
    Been 3 or 4 years since i bought my last saw so not to bad really, looking throu the brouchres and seen the a few strange technical terms Auto tune, Mtronic etc that i've never noticed before.

    In a good old fashioned saw shop the day (the kind with saws and parts off saws lying all over the place, total choas but he can go straight to anything he wants, his staff struggle thou) asking for prices and wot all these new phrases are/mean.
    It turns out quite a lot off saws are now auto tuning meaning the carb never needs tuned so no H/L/Idle screws and even more scary some of the top end stihls (and some huskys are jist coming out) u actually plug it into ur computer for diagnostics and it will tell u wot is wrong with it and wot needs replaced.

    To me that seems like far to complicated for something like a chainsaw, mibee i'm being old fashioned but even the auto tune seems a step to far to me. I'd imagine any carb probs and u jist buy a new carb instead of adjusting/new diaphram kit.

    As an add on does anyone have any experience/reccommendations of good 70+cc saws, ie Husky 372xp (a proper old skool saw, with a proper carb) compared to the newer more modern 576xp or how they compare to the comparable Stihl 441 (never under stand how the stihl model no's work)

    The last saw i bought was a stihl 361 which i like and have done a lot off work with, althou not as good as a husky 357, but i sometimes think that the husky's are sometimes over engineered and over perform (especially the 357,great saw but does tend to go bang quite often) and i seriously doubt the 357 would still be going now whereas the stihls seem to plod on and last a bit longer. I also have a few older 371/372;s that get canibalised to keep my 372 going which i love when its going well, but jist not relaible enough now.

    Decision time stick with a new 372 old skool saw, a slightly more modern 576/ stihl441 or going high tech and get a computerised 1(think they are similar in price) if only they could make a robot to push the bloody thing

  2. #2
    I know just what your going through!! Had all of my saws play up other day, not starting or revving erratically and smoking bad, after ditching the fuel out of them all, flushing and using a fresh mix all was well again! One of the lads must have double dosed the can

    My 72 started playing up a bit too often towards the end of last year so decided it was time for a new saw as well. I had a Stihl 361 before that and while it was tough and robust, it was such a numb thing, not a patch on the 72. I was going to keep it as a mid-to-large back up but realised i was a huskey convert so cashed it in for a lyle 46 silverside

    So when replacing the 72, I don't think the 576 was available at the time but was considering the 560. I won't bore you with the details but if it was in stock there and then, i would have had one but it wasn't so took another 72 instead!! The 72 is just such a good bit of kit, especially with heated handles, and i'm dead happy i went for what i know.

    Lad i work with had a bunch of 357s but there always seemed to be something wrong with them so he just got a 560 and he loves it. It can be a bitch to start when hot but bags of power, competes with my 72, and the rev-boost is good when snedding out... Another guy i work with has the new 550 for first thinning, beats the hell out of the old 57s and the weight of the 346!

    So to sum up - you wont go wrong sticking with another tried and tested 372, BUT the "new" saws have some really good plus points, and been around long enough for the probs to be ironed out and i for one will take the gamble for my next saw.

    (though i haven't looked at the super dooper new new saws!! i'll save that for the APF)
    Last edited by MrMickeyD; 17-07-2012 at 00:21.

  3. #3
    I use a Stihl ms 441 , you don't have to have m tonic , it's an option . Mine hasn't got it . I use it with a 25 in bar and I really rate it . Great saw . Saturday morning had a sizeable oak into cor lengths and tidy in 2/12 hours . Like I say great saw

  4. #4
    I am pretty sure stihl will have done stacks of testing before the new saws reached our tiny island in the Americas and Asia ,Canada Ect it's always a rench going away from what you know but someone has to be A pioneer maybe that's you .
    good luck

  5. #5
    Do a check of the plugs, if they're oregan ones bin them and get NGK. My mate who is a forester just had a husky go bang with the plug actually breaking a couple of weeks ago. It required a rebuild although apparently he was lucky he didn't keep trying to start it.

    The local repair place says its a problem with the plugs which oregan must know about but won't admit. Apparently a heap of saws/strimmers etc have gone the same way.

  6. #6
    The new 550 and 560 are excellent! 576 is a good saw as well. The teething issues have been sorted. Good light weight fast Torquay saws. Husqvarna all the way for me!!! Still waiting for the T540xp though!

  7. #7
    Cheers for the replies folks.

    Dunno wot i'll do althou think it will be either a 372 again, plus having a few dead ones in the shed helps for spares or possibly a basic non computerised Stihl 441 or size up? It's a total pain mixing the 2 companies thou as the different chain guages means u cannae transfer bars and chains

    Acm, i thought the 441 might have struggled pulling a 25" bar on esp in oak, takes a bit of grunt to do that. I'm usually on a 18" more for felling big soft woods which copes well even with some pretty big trees esp if ur boring the hinge out and i don't do much cross cutting well not till ur 3.7 up so usually a bit narrower.

    Norma i'm sure they've done a lot off testing on the saws and i'm sure they'll work fine (till warranty expires atleast) but for me it jist seems over complicating things so more to go wrong and in time and when it does ur hands are tied no matter how mechanical u are and most faults will be fixed by throwing the old part away and replacing it rather than fixing/tuning.
    In my opinion most mechanical things rely on electrical/computers far too much nowadays, u hardly dare open the bonnet of ur motor/tractor/digger and the 2n hand market esp in tractors is going to be knackered. Think the days of bodging fixes in the field to get the job done and starting by shorting the starter motor with a screw driver are over, althou in some cases that might be a good thing for safety. I remeber fencing for a boy (on a motorway job too) and the forward/reverse selector on tractor(ford 8840) was broke so the man on the chapper had to lie beside back wheel and put it into gear by hand and hope u never slipped ur foot of the clutch. Was like that for weeks.

  8. #8
    You can put an 8 pin sprocket on the new saws and change to 3/8th if this helps?

  9. #9
    Cheers deer man, guage was probably the wrong terminology. Its the thickness off the groove in the bar i was meaning, ie drive link thickness, dunno the proper term. I think that Husky work on 1.5mm groove and stihl work on 1.6mm and thats the same for both 3/16th and 3/8th chain.

    I may be wrong with that but thats wot i've always been told and always end up with 2 types of chain numbers for each chain pitch for the 2 saw makes (3/16th 21/22 and 3/8ths 73/75)

  10. #10
    I see what you mean. You could run all saws on 3/8 or .325. If you still want to run Sthil maybe have a coue of spare bars? Don't know if they are compatible on husky saws I only run them apart from the top handled saw.

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