Moderators

im trying to clean two moderators at the moment but can't seem to get them apart, does anyone have any hints or tips on getting them apart or do i just need to eat a few more wheatabix?? :)
 
put it like this, how much times do u clean your car exhaust? never so why should you clean your mod? there is no need to.
 
put it like this, how much times do u clean your car exhaust? never so why should you clean your mod? there is no need to.

I beg to differ on my .222 the grouping went from clover leaf to 1" plus groups which baffled me for a while then i held the T8 mod upto the light and looked through it and there was carbon whiskers in evidence so 30 cal wire brush clean out and BINGO clover leaf group again.

Jimbo
 
I had the same problem with a wildcat mod so i clamped it in vice with just enough pressure to stop it turning wrapped in cardboard then applied wd 40 to join and then wrapped free end in cardboard and used pipe wrench to free it. cleaned it by soaking and scrubbing in soapy water.
 
why would u seriously use water on it? that is crazy, some wd40 i can understand but water? baffles me. well they are exactly the same as a car exhaust and u never clean them. cant say i have ever cleaned mine in 5 years and they have gave me no problem.
 
Just buy a jim baker marauder moderators
It is made of stainless steel and is a sealed unit consisting of a series of welded baffles forward of the muzzle, with a large rear expansion chamber that sits over the barrel its powder coating on the out side , the best part it will not rust out , will not need cleaning and jim said the more you use it the quieter it will get.
Jim Baker Tel: (Mobile) 07733 043823
http://www.jimbakerbulletsnguns.co.uk
Mark
 
Just buy a jim baker marauder moderators
It is made of stainless steel and is a sealed unit consisting of a series of welded baffles forward of the muzzle, with a large rear expansion chamber that sits over the barrel its powder coating on the out side , the best part it will not rust out , will not need cleaning and jim said the more you use it the quieter it will get.
Jim Baker Tel: (Mobile) 07733 043823
http://www.jimbakerbulletsnguns.co.uk
Mark


It won't rust but it will corrode and faster than steel too you only have to see how much quicker a SS barrel with a mod left on corrodes than a crome Molly barrel does.
 
im trying to clean two moderators at the moment but can't seem to get them apart, does anyone have any hints or tips on getting them apart or do i just need to eat a few more wheatabix?? :)

you could try heating them up this should then help when taking them apart. that or drop it in some coke. it will soon loosen up
 
OP - What type of mods are they? If they're stainless centrefire mods then you shouldn't need to clean (like the MAE T12). If they're rimfire mods then yes you should clean them (especially if for 17HMR or carbines), as the unburnt powder will build up and cause blockages or accuracy issues.

I don't clean my centrefire mod (MAE T12) as it's a sealed unit and made of stainless steel - so like your car exhaust doesn't need cleaning.

My rimfire mods are also SS sealed units, but the 17HMR especially does get clogged up sometimes - I personally fill with WD40, then soak in hot soapy water, then rinse and allow the water to run out until it comes out clear. I then dry them out in the airing cupboard, then give a light spray of WD40, and dry out again. They put back in my gunsafe with tissue underneath to catch any WD40 that runs out.

If they are not sealed units then either soaking in diesel or heating up should work. If they're so corroded inside that you can't get them apart then my advice is buy some new ones - I highly reccomend the MAE mods sold by Julian Savoury at JMS Arms if you have the money, or if not then SAK's are efficient and so cheap you can replace once a year if you can't be bothered to clean them! :)
 
Last time I looked my car exhaust wasn't a machined component built within exactling tolerance with lumps of lead and copper being fired out at 3000fps within sub millimetre distances from the bore!!!.......

clean the bloody thing if you can.

the crap and crud that builds up in it is nasty toxic stuff and you only need one lump to roll around inside, get stuck on the leading edge of a baffle and dislodge the flight path by 1/10th of a minute of a degree and you could be looking at a new mod.....among other things.

it is hygroscopic and only compounds the issue of crown corrosion if it is left to build up.
 
corrode! its stainless


Types of Stainless Corrosion


1. Uniform Attack - also known as general corrosion, this type of corrosion occurs when there is an overall breakdown of the passive film. The entire surface of the metal will show a uniform sponge like appearance. Halogens penetrate the passive film of stainless and allow corrosion to occur. These halogens are easily recognizable, because they end with "-ine". Fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine and astatine are some of the most active.

2. Crevice Corrosion - this is a problem with stainless fasteners used in seawater applications, because of the low PH of salt water. Chlorides pit the passivated surface, where the low PH saltwater attacks the exposed metal. Lacking the oxygen to re-passivate, corrosion continues. As is signified by its name, this corrosion is most common in oxygen restricted crevices, such as under a bolt head.

3. Pitting - See Galvanic Corrosion. Stainless that had had its passivation penetrated in a small spot becomes an anodic, with the passivated part remaining a cathodic, causing a pit type corrosion. (Commonly seen on rifle crowns)

4. Galvanic Corrosion - Placing 2 dissimilar metals in a electrolyte produces an electrical current. A battery incorporates this simple philosophy in a controlled environment. The current flows from the anodic metal and towards the cathodic metal, and in the process slowly removes material from the anodic metal. Seawater makes a good electrolyte, and thus, galvanic corrosion is a common problem in this environment. 18-8 series stainless fasteners that work fine on fresh water boats, may experience accelerated galvanic corrosion in seawater boats, and thus it is suggested you examine 316 stainless.

5. Intergranular Corrosion - all austentic stainless steels contain a small amount of carbon. At extremely high temperature, such as welding, the carbon forces local chrome to form chromium carbide around it, thus starving adjacent areas of the chrome it needs for its own corrosion protection. When welding, it is recommended you consider low carbon stainless such as 304L or 316L.

6. Selective Leaching - Fluids will remove metal during a de-ionization or de-mineralization process.

7. Erosion Corrosion - This corrosion happens when the velocity of an abrasive fluid removes the passivation from a stainless.

8. Stress Corrosion - Also called stress corrosion cracking or chloride stress corrosion. Chlorides are probably the single biggest enemy of stainless steel. Next to water, chloride is the most common chemical found in nature. In most environments, the PPM are so small the effects on stainless are minute. But in extreme environments, such as indoor swimming pools, the effects can be extreme and potentially dangerous. If a stainless part is under tensile stress, the pitting mentioned above will deepen, and cracking may take place. If you are using stainless steel bolts under tensile stress, in an environment where chlorine corrosion is likely, you should examine the potential for stress corrosion cracking carefully.
 
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They work on the same principle. Do the same job. Just my opinion. I dont clean mine and wont ever, everyone to there own. But i have no problems with mine. Had it for 5 years not a problem so not cleaning them
Doesnt make them any worse than cleaning them.


Last time I looked my car exhaust wasn't a machined component built within exactling tolerance with lumps of lead and copper being fired out at 3000fps within sub millimetre distances from the bore!!!.......

clean the bloody thing if you can.

the crap and crud that builds up in it is nasty toxic stuff and you only need one lump to roll around inside, get stuck on the leading edge of a baffle and dislodge the flight path by 1/10th of a minute of a degree and you could be looking at a new mod.....among other things.

it is hygroscopic and only compounds the issue of crown corrosion if it is left to build up.
 
Just buy a jim baker marauder moderators
It is made of stainless steel and is a sealed unit consisting of a series of welded baffles forward of the muzzle, with a large rear expansion chamber that sits over the barrel its powder coating on the out side , the best part it will not rust out , will not need cleaning and jim said the more you use it the quieter it will get.
Jim Baker Tel: (Mobile) 07733 043823
http://www.jimbakerbulletsnguns.co.uk
Mark


How is your marauder mod going mark? I've put about 200 rounds through mine now and its definitely become quieter!

I love the fact that it doesn't need stripping/cleaning, and my other mods will get replaced with Jims marauders when funds allow..
 
How is your marauder mod going mark? I've put about 200 rounds through mine now and its definitely become quieter!

I love the fact that it doesn't need stripping/cleaning, and my other mods will get replaced with Jims marauders when funds allow..

Hi SaltLick
my marauder mod definitely become quieter and is working very well ,a m8 just had a 243 Custom Made Rifle my jim and put a marauder on it and another m8 is waiting for 1 to go on his 30-06
 
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