Fitting wildcat sound mod

rob121

Member
Hi There,

I purchased a wildcat sound mod yesterday for my t3 243. After talking to the lad in the gun shop, he mentioned drilling the cap that goes on the end of the mod over the barrel (if you know what I mean).

Basically he advised me to either drill it so it was very tight or drill it so it had plenty of clearance around the cap and the barrel. Apparently if its not tight it can effect the harmonics of the barrel. He went on to tell me that most people just leave the cap off.

I dont want to leave the cap off because personally I think its asking for problems later on with dirt etc.

Just wanted to know how you've fitted yours and whether it does actually make a difference.

Many Thanks,


Rob
 
i leave a little clearence i dont like it to be tight i have a jig for the lathe then bore it out witha boring bar
 
i leave a little clearence i dont like it to be tight i have a jig for the lathe then bore it out witha boring bar

Didnt think about using a lathe (not that ive got one but would be able to use a mates). I was just planning on using a pillar drill and just use a set of vernier callipers to match the drill bit.

I personally cant see that if it had a small amount of play that it would do too much damage in terms of accuracy but im by no means an expert and wouldn't have a clue on barrel harmonics. Thats why ive come to you guys :tiphat:
 
I have a Wildcat predator 8 on my SS T3 in 243. I have my bung/spacer/plug what ever it is you refer to tight on my barrel, to the extent it sometimes is a bugger to get off. My rifle consistently shoots cloverleaf groups at 100m so I'd try tight first, if that doesn't work then give some clearance. For the record I did not have to drill anything, was an out-of -the-box fit, no drilling required... And I'd not want to go at it with a drill, surely asking for trouble if you got it a fraction off-centre.

Stig
 
Rob, If you bought it from a gun shop they should have lathed it to fit your barrel.
The general opinion is that all mods that have a rear bush should have a few mil clearance.
The thought behind it is that if it touches/tight, as the barrel heats up it will get even tighter so you will not have the same barrel harmonics for the first second and thrd shot !!
Have a word with the manufacturer, I don't know who runs it now but I'm sure whoever it is will put you right.
 
Thanks for the advice. I will speak to the gun shop again and see what they have to say.

I think ill give it a bit of clearance, as you say when it gets hot its going to expand.

Knew I should of brought a t8 :doh:
 
Hi
We usually machine the rear support bushes to give them a 0.1mm/.004" clearance. This allows for expansion if required.
 
Thanks for the advice. I will speak to the gun shop again and see what they have to say.
I think ill give it a bit of clearance, as you say when it gets hot its going to expand. Knew I should of brought a t8 :doh:

The T8 also has a rear bush as well that needs 'profiling' normally done by the gunshop too.
 
I would have thought it is a must for this job to be done on a lathe. The hole in the bush really need to be concentric to the rest of the mod. If it is not when you screw the mod on the internal thread and the bush will fight each other. This could cause all sorts of problems.
 
The T8 also has a rear bush as well that needs 'profiling' normally done by the gunshop too.

Thats okay then! Ill def be mentioning it to them, as I said the lad advised me to leave it off but again not only would it gather crap inside it, it also doesnt give any support for the mod.

Is there anyone for the bushs ready to go, ie already been profiled, its on a tikka t3 lite which surely all have the same size barrels?
 
In my opinion if it is not touching it is not doing anything,so why have it?? both of mine are tight on barrel, the only thing is it will leave a mark on the barrel.
 
The gap/space is so small but it is there to support the Mod if it gets touched or knocked in use.
Like that it takes any pressure from sideways movement from the threaded end of the barrell.
If you have a tight fit when you first put it on it will get tighter once a few shots have been put through it.
That may not make a lot of difference for the odd shot when stalking but it will make quite a difference when zeroing or checking ammo.
 
The gap/space is so small but it is there to support the Mod if it gets touched or knocked in use.
Like that it takes any pressure from sideways movement from the threaded end of the barrell.
If you have a tight fit when you first put it on it will get tighter once a few shots have been put through it.
That may not make a lot of difference for the odd shot when stalking but it will make quite a difference when zeroing or checking ammo.

+1 on that mine has about a 2 thou clearance. As already said, without this collar, bash the mod and the rifle threading may be compromised.
 
I think what ill do is try and find a number for wildcat and give them a ring, see what they have to say. Although on there website is does mention " Rear of the moderator is supported on a derin bush" which would imply that it should be tight.
 
I cannot believe some of the comments on here in this thread :rolleyes:.

Am I to believe that everyone who has commented with the tight option believes that the bore of the barrel is perfectly central to the out side diameter ALL THE WAY THROUGH IT'S LENGTH?

Those that do should perhaps have a chat with Steve Kershaw and ask if he still has the cut off length of barrel from that "German" rifle with the bore hugely off centre at the cut ;) .

The moderator should be supported by the shoulder and/or the spigot at the muzzle as this is cut concentric and in line with the bore so the moderator is aligned with the bore. One reason why a decent shoulder should be present at the rear of the muzzle thread.

I know my ideas do not find favour with some whom must have larger threads which leave little or almost no shoulder but Oh well never mind. I have never been one to follow fashion.
 
Kev, can't see how concentricity would be a factor over the small length involved, as the bullet leaves the muzzle & only travels through the last 4 inches or so, the moderator would need to be canted wildly to affect clearances on baffle plates,?
 
Problems will have appeared long before 'wildly' has entered in to it - never heard or seen the problem with a loose moderator?
OSW if you cannot 'see' it leave it alone is the best advise.
Brit is correct in that shoulder and or spigot should align the moderator.
I will normally fit a soft 'o' ring to the barrel bush or if it is one of my own mods machine a groove for said 'o' ring,
all the alignment is done at the thread / shoulder.

The soft 'o'ring provides a small amount of support and when greased does not damage barrel finish.
 
The bushing is only there to stop a baffle strike if the moderator comes loose. It doesn't need to touch the barrel, .2mm is recommended by Jacksons for clearance on T8 mods now, and it works fine, no shiny marks on barrels.
 
Kev, can't see how concentricity would be a factor over the small length involved, as the bullet leaves the muzzle & only travels through the last 4 inches or so, the moderator would need to be canted wildly to affect clearances on baffle plates,?


As I said speak to Steve Kershaw and ask him just how far out that bore was. I say this as somehow I do not think people would believe me if i said just how far out it was.

I just happened to call in with my job for him just after he had cut the barrel bit off so he showed me. he was a bit stunned himself at how far off from being concentric it was and this was not off a cheap rifle either.

Your assuming that the bore is straight in your barrel, admittedly it ideally should be, but very few actually are dead straight. This is not the first one I have seen where the bore tracks an arc through the length of the barrel.
 
Back
Top