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Thread: Saur 202 Advice

  1. #1

    Saur 202 Advice

    Hi guys;

    Just bought a 2nd hand take down case off here. My rifle is not the new all singing dancing take down model. Cutting to the chase, i have never completely taken it down before, change barrels a few times but never removed the stock. Its a simple enough task using the long allan key thats used to remove the foreend. Whats disconcerting for me is that when you replace the but, on my rifle the allan key doesnt lock up tight, little or no resistance. I'm no gun smith nor engineer, it appears the holding alun screw is barely holding the butt so to speak. Its the same when removed, its as if the key is "Stripping" the thread, tho i cant really belive thats the case. It appears just enough bite. I'm planning another trip abroad for boar in the near future, i have visions of getting there, assembling the rifle and this failing on me, i.e, the butt will not lock up tight.

    Any advice or experiance. I am considering taking it to a local riflesmith, to be fair it appears locked up well enough, but its not the same as the forehand of which you can "feel" the key tension.

    Thanks very much in advance.


  2. #2
    Hello Steve,

    Not sure what's going on with your rifle but the butt on my 202 locks up nice and tight just like the foreend.
    It does not take many turns to tighten it, so I don't think the bolt goes into the action that far, but it does feel tight. Best get it checked out!



  3. #3
    Thanks Tom, I'm thinking somethings not quite right. Ironically as i say its only recently be removed. Agreed, i think i will get it checked out, just for peace of mind.

  4. #4
    I would have thought that if when you have the stock removed and you inspect the thread that is exposed (you may need to have the allen key inserted to make the thread protrude in oder to do this), you ought to be able to see if the exposed thread is looking worn (even if you suspect the stripping of thread is on the female part on the thread it would show wear on the male component?) I normally find that when I put the stock back on I get the thread to bite while the stock is about 5mm off being snugly fitted and I then tighten it and watch it being drawn onto the action, it definitely tightens up to a convincing-ish stop point. That said, my forend I have to be careful with, if I over tighten it it closes the gap between the forend and barrel and can make it touch, I tighten fully and then release a quarter turn to prevent this.

    Hope that helps.....

  5. #5
    The action on my 202 is steel, so I would assume less prone to wear or stripping threads than an alloy action? Maybe this could be the issue, just a thought.

    Good luck



  6. #6
    My 202 was quite sensitive to alignment - I could get the stock butted up to the action without actually having the thread engaged - I seem to recall that I had to use the log allen key to make sure the threads were engaged before the stock was touching the action - as deerstalker.308 describes above. It was a while ago I sold it though

  7. #7
    Thanks very much guys for the advice, had this rifle 11yrs or so now, when i used to do a lot more stalking all sorts of weather had nothing but trouble with the the foreend "Warping", had to sand quite a bit out to remedy that, apprently it was a common fault. Dont get me wrong, a good accurate rifle, just seems i have been "Dogged" with a few issues. The butt appears tight enough to the action for now, its just as outlined above it doesnt fill me with confidence. Deerstalker .308, doesnt appear any signs of wear, the Allan key is showing a little, I belive the cost of replacing is ridicoulous, 50 or something. I'm kicking around the idea of a new scope, ilumi reticle hopefully one that will be suitable for both stalking in low light & maybe driven likewise. I'm going to see my local gunsmith and have him check it out. Odds on a "Fat" bill is waiting at the end of this saga. Thanks once again

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