Adjustable cheek peice conversion

Caberhill

Well-Known Member
Does any one know were I can get the stainless steel adjustable cheek peice kit for converting existing wooden stocks into adjustable ones?

Also I have a plastic stocked Sako 85 and the check peice is fixed but appears to be a separate peice of plastic, anyone know if I can remove this and some how raise it?


Currently using beartooth comb raiser on both, it's fine on the plastic stock but the wooden stock it traps moisture between the neoprene and the wood.


Thanks
 
Seen some on the bay [ stainless steel adjustable cheek peice kit for converting existing wooden stocks into adjustable ones? ]
 
hi try this linkhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-cheek-riser-kit-for-rifle-shotgun-stock-/121000294967?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET&hash=item1c2c2dfa37
 
I have the same 85 stock as yours.
You can remove the recoil pad with a star screwdriver and then remove the cheekpiece.
I dont know if its possible to raise it though.
 
hi try this linkhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-cheek-riser-kit-for-rifle-shotgun-stock-/121000294967?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET&hash=item1c2c2dfa37

Thanks just what I was after, will post a pic when I grow the balls to make the cut in the stock.

I have the same 85 stock as yours.
You can remove the recoil pad with a star screwdriver and then remove the cheekpiece.
I dont know if its possible to raise it though.

Never thought to remove the but pad... :doh!
 
I thought the eBay link was pretty horrendous but if you look at the picture on the wooden stock you can see that the grub screws can be discreetly sunken Allen ones and that the large square metal base plate for the cheek price could be recesed into the stock so all you'd see is the two metal shafts and a Allen head. The only thing I 'm concerned about is the holes for the adjusters and how the wood can be protected there.
 
Have a look at this link, looks good but haven't tried it myself yet.

http://www.waveform.eclipse.co.uk/WEB%20PAGES/TARGET%20SHOOTING/Cheek%20Piece.htm

Bob

Cheers Bob,

He made a neat job of the one in that link. My biggest concern is not the workings or cut, it's reinstating the oiled finished. I'm sure though with a good enough filler and patients it'll be OK.

I've already got sitting beside me 16mm, 12mm and 8mm stainless tubing, also I have the the m6 x 70 ss allen bolts and 18mm M6 long nuts. I like the idea of a swedge more than a grub screw and since I now have the materials I intend to go this way.

Ali
 
Handy linc Whitebeard.

Alis,
If you cover the stock in masking tape and use a fine tooth scroll or band saw you will only need to reseal the cut edges and that won't show up so bad.

One i did earlier.
IMG_2750.jpg IMG_3741.jpg
 
How do you find the hold on the grub screw's for you the one in the picture above?

They hold solid. I went for two ali insert nuts and ss grub screws instead of one like in the waveform link. also used ali rods not stainless just to save weight, they work sweet.
You do need a big set of balls to make the first cut. Then keep everything true and clamped and keep checking that it's all straight.
Good luck.
 
They hold solid. I went for two ali insert nuts and ss grub screws instead of one like in the waveform link. also used ali rods not stainless just to save weight, they work sweet.
You do need a big set of balls to make the first cut. Then keep everything true and clamped and keep checking that it's all straight.
Good luck.

Cheers,

A friend has a reciprocating bench saw that I'll use. Planning to practice first on my old air rifle. I see the benefit of ally and the possibility for a little weight saving, i've got the stainless already bur i can easily "aquire" some aluminium. I was looking at SS inserts and bolts and brass/copper grub screws if I go down that route, theory being the brass or copper would have a better bite onto the vertical rods. I've got another week to mull it over before I can give it a go.

Looking at bedding the action just now but given it shot a pretty little clover leaf the other week I don't know if there is any point.

Ali
 
Ali
If you're going to use use aluminium rods, think about milling flats where the locking screws will clamp. That way if you over tighten the screws you won't deform the rods on their sliding faces making them bind in the stock.
Also there are different front profiles available on grub screws to give different clamping grip - pick the type that won't eat into the rods - smooth rather than toothed.
Copper or brass screws won't be very strong - phosphor bronze is much tougher although it can be difficult to machine to a smooth finish - high quality (black) steel screws will have a good feel in use & last for ever. stainless steel bolts need careful lubrication as they can gall & lock up very easily.

WRT bedding the action - don't mend what aint bust! You could spoil it!

Ian
 
I find a hunters of England cheek pad does the job on my 85 and only cost £35

I've got a similar one just now made by beartooth, now I want something more permenent. The rifle has an oiled wooden stock moisture trapped between the neoprene and wood is not doing it any good. I should be able to convert the cheek peice for less than £10as I've already got most of the components.

Cheers though.
 
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