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Thread: Take Down / Bolt Action For Travelling

  1. #1

    Take Down / Bolt Action For Travelling


    I took the stock off my Sako 85 last week. It has a 22 inch barrel and medium length action. The scope extends over the back of the action and increases the overall length of the barrel / action / scope unit by about 2 inches.

    I was struck by how short the barrel / action / scope unit seems to be when seperated from the stock. If I took the scope off it would be even shorter. I haven't re-zeroed the rifle yet but need to do so in the next week or so.

    I was prompted to think about the practicalities of taking the stock off a regular bolt action rifle for travelling and how much less convienient this would be than using a proper "take down" rifle.

    I understand that the amount of torque applied to the action screws when refitting the stock will make a difference to zero. However, there are small, affordable, torque wrenchs available for rifles. I guess that using one of these, combined with pillar bedding in the stock, could achieve something close to the original zero. I appreciate also that taking the scope off would also potentially alter zero, but using picatinny blocks and rings instead of optilocs would minimise the impact of removing and re-attaching optics.

    Given that most estates or PH's require their shooters to fire some shots to demonstrate zero and competance regardless of whether the shooter brings a bolt action or take down rifle, I wonder how much additional faff there would be in taking apart and reassembling a bolt action. Assuming a relatively short barreled / action bolt action was used the bits would fit in quite a small attache case, especially if the barrel / action was fitted in diagonally.

    Does anybody regularly take their bolt action apart as above and if so, what effect does it have on zero ?



  2. #2
    Bob, I always take the stock off my Sauers which causes no problems at all. I do the same with a blaser and am happy to take the scope off as well. My shooting mate does the same with his Mauser MO3. I suspect that you would have to expect some change in zero on the Sako. Pine Marten on here was on a quest for a take down rifle and I have had a look at some of the offerings but to be honest you could spend lots of money. There are I am sure some good gunsmiths who could make your rifle a proper takedown but again it's the financing it all!not much help really mate.

  3. #3

    All depends on if you are a regular traveller or not.

    You can get "in" at 2200 and be expected out at "0600"
    Now, if you know your travelling rifle well you will be happy. I've never had to adjust my MO3, even when opportunity to check has been available.

    If it's a one off trip to far flung places I would be tempted to disassemble as you will have planned in time on the range.


  4. #4
    SD Regular
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    East Midlands M1/M69 Junction 21
    Holland's "Takedown" models essentially do that except they have one screw in the fore-end that goes into the bottom of the front receiver ring (so like a standard non-take-down rifle) and the back of the action "hooks" into metalwork in the stcok where the tang screw would normally be.

  5. #5
    I had fitted a few different stocks from our production, they all shot within 1/2". Of course they were not bedded but only 22-250.
    Problems get bigger with increasing recoil I would guess.
    A well bedded rifle should make it easier to stay on zero after stock off/on.
    Just try it a few times.

  6. #6
    I have taken the stock and scope off my sako 85 a few times without any real loss of zero,
    Maybe 1/2 inch at most.
    I do use a torque screwdriver.
    My mounts are opti-locks and I just loosen the base screws and slide them off and on again.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by palo View Post
    I have taken the stock and scope off my sako 85 a few times without any real loss of zero,
    Maybe 1/2 inch at most.
    I do use a torque screwdriver.
    My mounts are opti-locks and I just loosen the base screws and slide them off and on again.
    Same experience here except that I don't have a torque wrench. Certainly no more of a variable factor than taking a moderator on and off. Having said that, all of my Sakos shoot to point of aim after cleaning too yet some people seem to need to fire off a weeks wages worth of ammo to get a rifle back on zero after any change, maybe I'm just lucky.

  8. #8
    if .223 rem was enough then something along the lines of the Steyr Aug z would be easy and fairly repeatable. pig ugly though...

  9. #9
    Look for a second-hand Mauser Model 66 , they were made in numerous different calibres.
    With these rifles the scope is on the barrel not the action. Apel also made mounts for these to enable removal of the scope if so desired.
    I had these in 5.6x61 Vom Hofe Super Express and .30-06 calibres.
    Last edited by stag1933; 27-11-2012 at 00:41.

  10. #10
    My CZs have two action screws so it is a simple operation, I use a torque srewdriver and there is no shift in the point of impact.

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