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Thread: Tikka M595 Stock Retaining Screws?

  1. #1

    Tikka M595 Stock Retaining Screws?

    I've noticed the barrel on my m595 appears to be touching the stock at the very tip of the forend and I can't get a sheet of paper down between the stock and barrel, which I used to be able to do with ease.

    I intended this afternoon to take the action out of the stock and have a look (I've never had the action out of the stock in the 5 years I've had the rifle).

    Screw in front of the trigger guard came out reasonably easily. The screw behind the trigger guard remains in situ, although slightly chewed

    Couple of questions:

    - can anyone confirm that both these screws need to be removed to take the action out of the stock (it appears so from the manual I've downloaded from t'internet)
    - any tips on freeing a seized screw in such circumstances?
    - does anyone know where you can buy a replacement screw for a m595


  2. #2
    Gmk are the sako and tikka main dealer. So you could get one through them off your rfd. As they only sell to the trade.
    Tho im sure there are some gunsmith around who make after market hex screws for them so might be worth looking into

    As for your stock. Maybe some damp has got into the wood and its swollen. Just get some sand paper around abit of wood and carefully take abit off till you got a good free floating barrel channel. Then put some stuff on the exposed wood

  3. #3
    This week I got a quote for a set of stock screws 18!

    Theyre just M6 so got someone on a lathe to turn down some stainless bolts to the same head size and they look great with the stainless action and cost a few pence.
    I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy!
    Another 7mm08 shooter!

  4. #4
    1, both screws need to come out,

    2, try screwing the offending screw in a tad first.

    3, if still tight try some releasing oil in and around the screw that is tight.

    all the best with getting it out,

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  5. #5
    From memory, the hole that the rear action screw is screwed into actually goes all of the way through the action on the 595 and emerges in a slot that the bolt cocking lever slots into adjacent to the safety catch. I'd fill this with penetrating oil and leave standing horizontally overnight to allow the oil to soak into the threads, then as in previously thread, try to rotate clockwise first to get the screw moving and hopefully you will then be able to unscrew if you're carefull with what's left of the remaining slot, if this fails and you've destroyed the screw, you might be able to get it started by tapping it clockwise with a hammer and punch, after that you're down to drilling the head of the screw off and then removing what's left from the action. However my advice would be to try the first suggestion and as you've had to ask the question, if that fails I would leave it up to a gunsmith as you've probably insufficient experience and are likely to cause more damage to other components.

  6. #6
    Yes, you do need to remove both screws.

    Don't go putting penetrating oil or other releasing fluids on this, it will soak into the woodwork which is not good...

    It sounds as if the stock has got rather damp, both because the fore end is touching the barrel and because the rear screw can't be removed.

    Before you resort to oil and need a replacement stock, try putting the rifle somewhere warm and where you can secure it for a while to see if you can get th wood to shrink back enough to release the screw.

    For future reference, rather than use a screw driver, take a trip to Halfrauds and buy one of their professional 1/4" socket sets, then use the ratchet with the larger flat screw driver bit, it will allow you to put pressure on the screw and use leverage to turn the screw.

    if the screw head is totally buggered the be VERY careful if you are going to drill it out - safer to go to a gunsmith and ask him to drill it out from the top if possible - it won't need drilling out completely as a hole down the centre should relieve the pressure sufficiently to allow the screw to turn.

    When you put it all back together the front one is the one that should be tightest as this is the one that goes through the recoil lug.

    Good luck.

  7. #7
    Thanks for the rather late reply to this thread. Good advice, although I can confirm that I did get the action out the stock. Given the soaking the rifle got today, I'm gonna have to keep an eye on the forend. Worth it though, managed to find 2 roe that hadn't read the weather forecast


  8. #8
    Can someone confirm these are m6 as would like to replace mine with a alan key head stainless bolts

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Tuck View Post
    Can someone confirm these are m6 as would like to replace mine with a alan key head stainless bolts
    Yep but you will need to turn them down to fit.
    I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy!
    Another 7mm08 shooter!

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by bk View Post
    Yep but you will need to turn them down to fit.
    Not sure if they will still ship to the UK or not but MT Guns in the states do hex bolts with the correct taper on them - have bought several sets from them over the years as well as a contoured aluminium guide for the Master Sporter stock (allows you to feed the magazine straight in wit no fiddling).

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