Another Completed Re barrel

Jager SA

Well-Known Member
Well, it's taken while to get to grips but no complaints thus far! :)

Rebarrel chambered in .243 Winchester...it shoots like a dream!


Any comments welcome, I offer screw cutting, barrel shortening, re crowning, chambering etc at very competitive prices!


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I'll be opening a shop front in the near future if all goes according to plan...
 
Well, it's taken while to get to grips but no complaints thus far! :)

Rebarrel chambered in .243 Winchester...it shoots like a dream!

Any comments welcome

The muzzle thread and crown look nice. I see you are using a 4 jaw chuck, which is good. How close do you dial your tolerances, and how do you support the other end ?

Show us some photos of the re-barrel please, I am curious to know your method for cutting the tenon and the chamber.

Regards.
 
How can this 243 be "shooting like a dream" if you haven't yet cut the extractor slot?
 
The muzzle thread and crown look nice. I see you are using a 4 jaw chuck, which is good. How close do you dial your tolerances, and how do you support the other end ?

Show us some photos of the re-barrel please, I am curious to know your method for cutting the tenon and the chamber.

Regards.

I clock in as close to zero as I can...maybe 1-10 of a thou using my DTI of my pin gauge, the rear has a 4 bolt spider attached to the spindle bore or I have used alloy sleeves which I bore out, this has worked very well.

I use a 60' (partial form) single point threading tool for the thread, I also use a positive tip to turn my depth and then a parting of tool for my under cut. For the chamber I take my measurements from the action and bolt face and the old barrel if it's the same calibre...I made a floating reamer holder from a no3 morse taper which works flawlessly! I use my No go/go gauge for final fit allowing for a couple of thou when tightening the barrel.

My lathe is a very tidy Harrison M300 with metric lead screw, the dials show very little back lash so haven't bothered with a DRO.

Ill sort picks out ASAP.
 
How can this 243 be "shooting like a dream" if you haven't yet cut the extractor slot?

Because it's the second one I've done!

just to clarify, I had 2 model 70s I picked up cheap for the projects!
 
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Looks like tidy work there buddy what barrels are you using may I ask, was looking at getting my Tikka T3 rebarrelled in the near future, a few people have said begara barrels are a good value barrel what do you think of them?
 
Looks like tidy work there buddy what barrels are you using may I ask, was looking at getting my Tikka T3 rebarrelled in the near future, a few people have said begara barrels are a good value barrel what do you think of them?

Thank you...im hasnt to add I am self taught, im not claiming to be a riflesmith ex sniper or Para or any kind of engineer! this is very basic stuff here, barely first year apprentice stuff. I am but a gun plumber, but hey, it works perfectly! :)

I had Pacnor and Border Archer at the time but I have used Bergara and they do seem to shoot well. I visited Bergaras plant some years back and it's an impressive set up. I would certainly consider Bergara, they do machine well.
 
I would want my action beed blasted also to match or maybe cerakoted maybe also, barrel would be 6.5x55

Whilst the look of stainless is very nice it can rust, a coating over it the barrel and action is by far the best way for weather proofing, reducing glare and heating of the barrel surface! Since starting in 07 I've done 100s, lost count so I can safely claim the coatings do work.
 
My lathe is a very tidy Harrison M300 with metric lead screw, the dials show very little back lash so haven't bothered with a DRO.

Ill sort picks out ASAP.

Nice lathe, and well up to your use.
As for a DRO, why, rifle work is all one off's, no repeat stuff so no real gain.
Back lash is not an issue if you use the hand wheels as you should, apart from which a DRO scale is not without error anyway, ask anybody who plots holes over more than about 8 inches on an old Bridgeport.

Neil. :)
 
Nice lathe, and well up to your use.
As for a DRO, why, rifle work is all one off's, no repeat stuff so no real gain.
Back lash is not an issue if you use the hand wheels as you should, apart from which a DRO scale is not without error anyway, ask anybody who plots holes over more than about 8 inches on an old Brid.

Neil. :)

Exactly why I didn't bother...I read a bit and asked a few people in the know! The Threads are never the same and using a partial form tool you almost feel you way! :)
 
Whilst not essential, a dro does make it easier to cut the tenon to the right length, no need to use a carriage stop or the compound, especially if you've set it to 30 degrees for thread cutting. Just face off, hit the zero button, then turn down the tenon and the dro will get the length right.

Looks good :)
 
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