Just wondering what peoples pro's and cons are for stainles vs blue rifles ?.
fraser
fraser
Why stainless ?
- Thread starter private fraser
- Start date
My pro is i can rust a blue gun in a day as my skin ph is strongand blood won't damage it aswell
Yup... +1....go one better than both and get Ilaflon coated....
blued looks good, stainless only looks decent if it's on a synthetic stock. hot caustic blueing wears off and comes off if you get blood on it, it also rusts. stainless also rusts contrary to popular belief.
decent bluing, ie. slow rust bluing (my personal favourite) cannot rust, and will not come off if you get blood on it, it's what SS wishes it was, AND it looks good..it's proper bluing.
spray/bake on coats are horrid IMHO. they don't look 'right' and yes, they do eventually start to flake and chip...so just get a proper rust bluing once and for all
decent bluing, ie. slow rust bluing (my personal favourite) cannot rust, and will not come off if you get blood on it, it's what SS wishes it was, AND it looks good..it's proper bluing.
spray/bake on coats are horrid IMHO. they don't look 'right' and yes, they do eventually start to flake and chip...so just get a proper rust bluing once and for all
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But how do you tell proper blueing?
ps...still sorry I missed that cz you were selling.
you'll usually find rust bluing on high end guns only as it cannot be done on an economy of scale or factory line basis, it's often a more deep carbon grey without the blue shine, and when oiled it takes a deeper black appearance. if carded at higher speeds and polished with finer wet/dry in preparation, it can take a more high shine finish like those on fine H&H or Purdey sidelocks. the oil mixture you use to submerge the barrels in can also play a role in the exact colour.
Rust bluing converts any metal capable of rusting into magnatite, which means they literally cannot rust more
also very useful for older and vintage guns with brazing as the temps used in caustic can cause them to break or become so weak usage becomes dangerous.
once you've seen a few you'll know what they look like.
..that said, there are private individuals who offer rust bluing commercially in the industry, myself included from later this summer. Many smiths take over £200 to dip a barrel into caustic bluing, IMHO that's pretty steep for what it involves, I am looking to deliver a proper barrelled action slow rust blue at around £250, I think prices elsewhere can reach up to over £650.
Rust bluing converts any metal capable of rusting into magnatite, which means they literally cannot rust more
also very useful for older and vintage guns with brazing as the temps used in caustic can cause them to break or become so weak usage becomes dangerous.
once you've seen a few you'll know what they look like.
..that said, there are private individuals who offer rust bluing commercially in the industry, myself included from later this summer. Many smiths take over £200 to dip a barrel into caustic bluing, IMHO that's pretty steep for what it involves, I am looking to deliver a proper barrelled action slow rust blue at around £250, I think prices elsewhere can reach up to over £650.
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Spay on coatings in particular ceramics do last and last well, I've done 100s with no complaints since 2007. Depending on how well they done, they can look superb.
I too am in the process of looking at offering rust blueing to go along side the other projects.
I too am in the process of looking at offering rust blueing to go along side the other projects.
funny how you just came to mention that! LOL
As did you....
Indeed, and it was said tongue in cheek and without judgement, hence the wink. On another note, and not saying JagerSA is guilty, what I find so amusing about some people on the SD is that if someone mentions they offer XYZ services or sell ABC, then suddenly other people jump in and go 'Oh so do I, so do I and even cheaper,'...LOL..
I don't judge, I just find it funny. My favourite is Saddler (and others), seems every time I used to advertise my fine leatherware items on here, the next post on the SD was one from him (or others) funnily enough advertising leatherware, at cheaper prices, almost using my advert as a means to generate sales by offering lower quality (and cheaper) products when the subject is prevalent.
hence I've now cut my Trade membership off for a while whilst I consider if it's commercially viable.
jungle_re
Well-Known Member
To be fair many non stainless modern rifles (in the cheaper sporter end) don't have proper blued barrels but some paint or other coating (often not very good either!).
Stainless is just easier to maintain and less to worry about in adverse weather. Its amazing just how quickly a moly barrel will rust even during use sometimes and certainly quickly after. If its honking it down and blowing a hoolie I;d rather be able to chuck the rifle in the case and sort it once home something that when previously done on blued rifles has caused rusting just in 30 mins transit. Stainless certainly does still rust but you have to be tardy in your upkeep in most circumstances for this to occur.
Blued barrels arnt blued internally are they? but stainless is stainless throughout
Stainless is just easier to maintain and less to worry about in adverse weather. Its amazing just how quickly a moly barrel will rust even during use sometimes and certainly quickly after. If its honking it down and blowing a hoolie I;d rather be able to chuck the rifle in the case and sort it once home something that when previously done on blued rifles has caused rusting just in 30 mins transit. Stainless certainly does still rust but you have to be tardy in your upkeep in most circumstances for this to occur.
Blued barrels arnt blued internally are they? but stainless is stainless throughout
Sorry if that offends but I've been working in coatings since 2007, I've already done cold blueing but found it to be almost temporary. I've always maintained with my customers and at their advice to get in to Rust blueing as it will run along side my other stuff especially barrel making.
im more than happy to delete my post or edit but I do understand what you mean as I've suffered the same by others with my work.
totally agree I have two winchester 94's and they are supposedly bad for this - nothing to do with a poor finish - just the way they are!
Regards,
Gixer
Dawnraider
Well-Known Member
Not sure what my blaser barrel is coated with but it's though as hell,might be phosphated, I don't know, but seems resistant to blood and sweat and looks good too,not shiny like blue and stainless.
Hornet 6
Well-Known Member
I find it less than amusing that you have the cheek to post this at all.
You are the "Johnny come lately" here, the other have a proven track record, they are also paid up trade members, you no longer are but are still touting for business.
Personally I'll stick withe Saddlers proven quality, and when I want something coated I'll go see James having seen his work first hand.
Neil.
Surely there is enough business for all you guys to have a bit. Without descending into knocking one or the other? One man may be willing to pay more another may not be able to. That's why the car industry has cars from £5k -£100K. pietasvenatores. I think you have done yourself no favors here.
PointBlank
Well-Known Member
Hornet 6
Well-Known Member
6pt-sika
Well-Known Member
I actually like blued and stainless equally .
I prefer blued in leveractions as well as single shots and bolt guns if the bolt guns have nice walnut or maple .
I like stainless in synthetic stocks . Some folks around here have gotten into stainless barreled actions in nice walnut . Not my thing at all , but to each his own .
When I was what I called hard core and hunted about every day I wanted stainless synthetic bolt actions . Also when I go for Sika on the Eastern Shore it was good as I hunted around brackish marsh .
Lately I don't have a stainless gun . For the Sika I use a Savage 10ML and a Savage 220 . Both are blued and synthetic . And both seem very good for what I do with them here and at the Eastern Shore .
Now with all this said if I ever build another 6.5-06 I suspect I'll get a Shilen stainless barrel for the rifle . It'll be screwed into an older Remington 700 blued action and most likely put in some sort of synthetic stock in all likelyhood an HS Precision stock with the aluminum bedding block .
I prefer blued in leveractions as well as single shots and bolt guns if the bolt guns have nice walnut or maple .
I like stainless in synthetic stocks . Some folks around here have gotten into stainless barreled actions in nice walnut . Not my thing at all , but to each his own .
When I was what I called hard core and hunted about every day I wanted stainless synthetic bolt actions . Also when I go for Sika on the Eastern Shore it was good as I hunted around brackish marsh .
Lately I don't have a stainless gun . For the Sika I use a Savage 10ML and a Savage 220 . Both are blued and synthetic . And both seem very good for what I do with them here and at the Eastern Shore .
Now with all this said if I ever build another 6.5-06 I suspect I'll get a Shilen stainless barrel for the rifle . It'll be screwed into an older Remington 700 blued action and most likely put in some sort of synthetic stock in all likelyhood an HS Precision stock with the aluminum bedding block .
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