bluing prep

adrian0100

Well-Known Member
Ok so i have stripped all the old bluing off rubbed metal work down and now I need to polish it so whats the best way to do it and the best polish and mops to use?
 
i use a bench grinder and fabric polishing wheel. but then I am a heathen

gradually move to finer grade sand paper
I also did a show shine action on the barrel with a thin strip of 1500 grit paper to get a nice finish.

be aware any polishing compounds set in wax need to be well removed as they leave a residue
 
go to a motor factor or any body shop and get some wet'n'dry 1000 and 1500 and polish useing the hand made method ;) try to keep the movement all the same way up and down up and down :eek: then use a good panel wipe get this also from you body shop etc or a heated tank of de-gresser at a chrome platers will do even better, then do the deed or get it coated my jagger in colchester
 
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As a point of interest and with no desire to hijack this thread, is there a do-it-yourself cold bluing kit out there that significantly improves on the old Birchwood offering?

K
 
pass feller i used a hot blue old s/s bath a long time ago now thay are all s/s actions and barrels or coated but try brownalls or midway uk
 
Clod Ox blueing kit is better IMHO but nothing beats a traditional rust blacking cuastic black for accessories is second best.
 
So my initial way was right then 1500 grit and lots of time any nicks or dinks strike back with a small file then sand sand and sand cheers guy for your input. thought I was going to get another option but hay the labour intensive way it is. Poulo i dont want to use a hot dip as its a old sxs and dont fancy damaging the solder but I like your thinking on newer guns thats deffently a way to go
 
Micromesh did it for me.

We used to use it for polishing aircraft transparencies to retain optical quality. Works equally well on metal.

Available in grades from (IIRC) about 800 grit to 12000.

Which is smoother than a very smooth thing.

There's a guy on British Blades selling kits most of the time.
 
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what are you bluing? and what bluing technique are you applying...I mean seriously, don't take anything said above onboard until you know if it works with your method and part!!!! (barrel, action, small part),,(hot caustic, slow rust, browning, etc. etc.).

tell us HOW, WHAT, etc. or expect only answers that can guide you down the wrong path..
 
"I mean seriously, don't take anything said above onboard"

In what way could my information on Micromesh to achieve a final polish be misleading?
 
"I mean seriously, don't take anything said above onboard"

In what way could my information on Micromesh to achieve a final polish be misleading?

ok, let me ask you this,,,what type of bluing method is the OP using, and why would he/she wish to polish the steel prior to applying the bluing/blackening?
 
The bluing / blacking method is irrelevant at the preparation stage.

The better the polish the better the final finish.
 
Pkl I dont want a high polished finish what I want is a smoth evenly finished metal with no blemishes. as the saying goes the better prep work the better the finish what is wrong with that?
 
Pkl I dont want a high polished finish what I want is a smoth evenly finished metal with no blemishes. as the saying goes the better prep work the better the finish what is wrong with that?

ah, excellent, we're getting somewhere :) Adrian, in bluing, a 'perfect' polish will not always lead to a beautiful bluing job, it really depends on the type of bluing method you are applying as to how it will react. slow rust bluing for example, you really don't need to take past 300grit... but then I suspect you are perhaps cold bluing at small part?

tell us more about what products you have, what parts you're trying to blue and what your objectives are :) I'd genuinely like to help, and yes, I do know what I'm talking about too.
 
Adrian,

​If you wish, I will scan and send you the relevant pages of "Firearm Bluing and Browning" by R H Angier, a respected authority on the process.

Let me have your email by pmail if you think it could help you.
 
Pkl I am cold bluing as I havent as yet sorted out exactly what I need to set up for rust bluing but I shall although people dont seem to be overly forth coming with help on that matter. But I am bluing a set of barrels for my self from a old bakil nothing special but would like the satisfaction of being able to do it right or as best I can with what I have avable to me at this time! So feel free to offer all the pointer you can ill take all advice on board if I feel its good ill try it if not not. Lol
 
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I think the bakil can have its barrels hot blued certainly the rest of the metal work can be. This will look better than cold DIY kits.
 
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