.270Win - 130gr Nosler Partitions

Craggan

Well-Known Member
Hello folks,

Im seriously considering reloading in the future for my .270Win, I know that the taking the initial hit on the reloading kit will be an expense however it still seems cheaper than factory stuff, and really the cost of the factory ammo that's making me look at reloading.

im looking at for the moment at 130gr Nosler Partitions, (but have also been put on to sierra grand slams:rolleyes:) has any one used the partition to any success?

Cheers,
Craggan?
 
yes mate in my opinion one of the best bullets available and will happily contend with any animal you find yourself in front of I also use them in the 300 win i am sure others will also give a good account of them, atb wayne
 
yes mate in my opinion one of the best bullets available and will happily contend with any animal you find yourself in front of I also use them in the 300 win i am sure others will also give a good account of them, atb wayne

Cheers Wayne,
Im curious, what brass your using? does it make a difference ect?

ATB
Craggan
 
i started out reloading for my .270 with a lee loader and a few case conditioning tools
£50 outlay on hardware
1kg of powder does 300 rounds give or take
for £200 you can get 300 bullets, 1kg of powder and the beginnings of a reloading kit, enough for a good weekend!

i got better groups than norma factory and with all the brass i had left over from 20+ years of factory ammo it was a no brainer

depends what you want from it.
cost was my issue when 20 130gr norma hit close to £40!

130 gr interlocks are a good option if you dont fancy buying nosler partitions.

you don't need bench rest components and practices to produce better than factory, cheaper than factory and with a better bullet choice
 
As the above posts, you save money in the long run, produce a better bullet in terms of accuracy, performance and cost for your rifle, and your needs, and its satisfying producing your own fodder, another string to the bow. Also you will not be buying what the gunsmith has to sell, but what you want to shoot. deerwarden;)
 
I've used partitions for more years than I care to remember. I've used them in everything from 6.5 up to 375 and they always performed well for me. The 270 with a 130 gr partition would be an excellent choice for most game in this part of the world ( as always, excluding the big bears ) and I'm sure would handle anything in the UK with room to spare.
AB
 
think i will stick to the barnes ttsx, bit dear to buy but once you have the load to suit well worth the outlay for my .270 and only use them to check zero and stalking so do use mass amounts, suppose its what suits your rifle and what you feel comfortable with, :thumb:
 
I use the 130g ballistic tip out of my .270 Wsm and it is an awesome bullet. I do think the Barnes are the way to go though.
 
think i will stick to the barnes ttsx, bit dear to buy but once you have the load to suit well worth the outlay for my .270 and only use them to check zero and stalking so do use mass amounts, suppose its what suits your rifle and what you feel comfortable with, :thumb:

It is no great hardship to work up 2 loads with the same trajectory, one with TSX and the other with cheaper soft points or match bullets for practice. There may be very slight differences in trajectory between the two but it won't be much.
 
i have some 135gr SMK's that are as near identical to the 130gr
the 150's similarly as near as damn out to 300yds
(my 130gr load is slower than factory but the 150gr was slightly faster)

​no longer use 150's though
 
i started out reloading for my .270 with a lee loader and a few case conditioning tools
£50 outlay on hardware
1kg of powder does 300 rounds give or take
for £200 you can get 300 bullets, 1kg of powder and the beginnings of a reloading kit, enough for a good weekend!

i got better groups than norma factory and with all the brass i had left over from 20+ years of factory ammo it was a no brainer

depends what you want from it.
cost was my issue when 20 130gr norma hit close to £40!

130 gr interlocks are a good option if you dont fancy buying nosler partitions.

you don't need bench rest components and practices to produce better than factory, cheaper than factory and with a better bullet choice

130 gr Interlock, sounds promising too, it is quite clear from he initail responses that reloading is the way forward, and interesting to see that there is a wider range of choice than the RFD'd Norma SP or RWS T-Matels
 
I've used the 160 grain Nosler ( Federal ammo) in 7x64. Excellent bullet, with limited expansion and so limited meat dammage. If I would live in Scotland, I would have a light 20" barrel 270 , scope , mod and bipod include below 4kg. This would be loaded with 130 grain Nosler Partitions or Barnes (T)TSX . This combination is perfect for anything.
On U.K deer the partition will certainly be more than sufficient.
 
Lots of choice out there i have a few favourites i keep using I will try copper as well when i get round to it as i have some waiting to be loaded up but i have been playing with another toy and once finished getting the load right for that will turn back to the 270 and work a load again in copper.
loading is a great hobby in itself and its all Muir's fault as i have now got another hobby in casting lead bullets and playing with shiny new toys, as to your earlier question i have a few different brass types from norma to winchester and some remington. but all are seperate and in tubs with the various times i have reloaded
each different type of case had loads worked up till they all matched but wanted to be safe.
you don't need alot of gear to start with and there is a good selection of bullets you just need to match to your intended quarry but a good 130 grain bullet is great i do use 150 grain bullets that are a little slower to good effect also but that is woodland driven game as opposed to stalking, let us know how you get on, atb wayne
 
think i will stick to the barnes ttsx, bit dear to buy but once you have the load to suit well worth the outlay for my .270 and only use them to check zero and stalking so do use mass amounts, suppose its what suits your rifle and what you feel comfortable with, :thumb:

Which weight are you using? I've heard good things about the 110 grain on the US sites, and as my .270 was shortened to 20" wouldn't mind the extra speed!
 
Finnbear seems to make the most logical evolution. The Nosler Partition was 30 years ago what the Barnes is at this moment. Money can not be a reason not to use a premium bullet. How many rounds do you need to zero the rifle and shoot deer in a year ? Not enough to make a diffrence. You can always make a cheaper load to practice. Even if the POI isn't the same, as long as you shoot tight groups you know the shooting is O.K. One or two rounds with the deer load to confirm zero is fine.
 
Lots of choice out there i have a few favourites i keep using I will try copper as well when i get round to it as i have some waiting to be loaded up but i have been playing with another toy and once finished getting the load right for that will turn back to the 270 and work a load again in copper.
loading is a great hobby in itself and its all Muir's fault as i have now got another hobby in casting lead bullets and playing with shiny new toys, as to your earlier question i have a few different brass types from norma to winchester and some remington. but all are seperate and in tubs with the various times i have reloaded
each different type of case had loads worked up till they all matched but wanted to be safe.
you don't need alot of gear to start with and there is a good selection of bullets you just need to match to your intended quarry but a good 130 grain bullet is great i do use 150 grain bullets that are a little slower to good effect also but that is woodland driven game as opposed to stalking, let us know how you get on, atb wayne

Agreed, I reckon the 130gr is the way forward, not sure I gain anything for the 150gr; 130gr I will be using on Roe, Fallow and Reds and it seems work, reloading seems to draw quite the following and some very enthusiastic folk too, thanks for the advice wayne its appreciate, and I will let you know how I get on future once I get tinkering away.
Atb
Craggan
 
If you are interested in some general comments on the partition performance then out of my 308Win I've been very impressed with them in terms of doing a good job on deer though I've not been able to get them quite as accurate as the Hornady Spire Points and am getting a lot less velocity out of the partitions compared to my accurate Spire Point load. I use 150 grain Partitions.

I shoot sika and with the Spire Points had never seen a chest shot sika go straight down without a run, though the 150 grain Spire Point was doing 3000fps and doing lots of damage in the chest. However with the Partitions, at probably only 2700fps, I've been seeing chest shot sika going straight down. Now I can't say every one goes straight down and maybe it is just a matter of a change of luck but so far my experience has been that probably over half of my chest shot sika go straight down now. This saves a lot of crawling about in forestry looking for them and that is a very worthwhile advantage and so at the minute I'm sticking with the Partitions. I also shot one red hind with them and she went down so fast that the stalker with me thought I'd head shot her and was a little taken aback to discover the holes in the chest.

I've also neck shot some sika with them and found that expansion of the front core must have been very rapid indeed - they've all gone straight down as you'd expect and in some cases the only thing holding their heads on was the skin on either side of their neck and there often appears to be several inches of spine that is just "gone" with no trace as to where it went.

I did recover one Partition in a sort of freak shot, it was a downhill shot into the head of a sika stag and the bullet then travelled down the neck where it was located. The bullet appeared to perform perfectly with the front lead core gone in the initial rapid expansion, considerable expansion of the copper jacket and the rear core intact. I will attach some photos:





 
What would be best for Africa (270) 130 grn or 150grn. Hunting Warthog, Impala, Kudu.
Tusker
 
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