stalking car repair questions (for mechanics)

User00003

Well-Known Member
my stalking car (Pajero) as per previous thread (sorry to bring it up again boys)...seems to have blown the radiator (now replaced), but the mechanic argues it's not worth taking the engine out to investigate further (thanks for putting in a new rad!! suss..), says the manual labour involved just for removing the engine and investigating the damage to the cylinders will be a few hundred quid easy. He reckons one or more cylinders will need to be bored out and sleeve/lined with new head gaskets and pistons. Says 99% of cars subjected to that kind of heat/pressure will have blown engines, and therefore, only option to avoid wasting money is to scrap it (esp. being an import where parts may not fit from the UK).

so, not trusting my mechanic (for many good previous reasons! LOL), is it possible to take the top of the engine/cylinders apart without lifting the engine? ie, from the top/bonnet?

also, I have read about using JB weld to smooth out scores in cylinders, to do a makeshift repair job...anyone able to comment on feasibility based on experience?

I'm thinking if possible (without removing engine), I could try to repair it as a 'home project'.

Here's the other one...would anyone then be willing to lift/tow from Hawick to Duns in exchange for a few days stalking on my ground? ie. someone that has the relevant truck access?...that is, if it seems a 'home' repair could be facilitated of course...
 
mate what extent of damage has it?. has it been pressure tested? i would not even bother trying to fill scores it will cost you in the long run. gaskets will be in the region of £100 plus the head skim then thats if you dont need pistons and rings and then it would be debateble if you go to that expence then why stop i would not do all that without changing big ends so a full job. my advice would be to buy a recon engine and swap then strip the old one down and work on it and do a full rebuild. Thats just me but you try and do it on the cheap it will come back and bite you, atb wayne
 
I have worked on old v8 range rovers with the engine still in place, its easy enough to take the heads off. The biggest problem I found was the height you have to work at
 
mate what extent of damage has it?. has it been pressure tested? i would not even bother trying to fill scores it will cost you in the long run. gaskets will be in the region of £100 plus the head skim then thats if you dont need pistons and rings and then it would be debateble if you go to that expence then why stop i would not do all that without changing big ends so a full job. my advice would be to buy a recon engine and swap then strip the old one down and work on it and do a full rebuild. Thats just me but you try and do it on the cheap it will come back and bite you, atb wayne

yep ..what he said
 
Have to agree with mereside.
having played with engines in the past it soon becomes apparent that unless you either have lots of money or lots of time (or both!) you just end up chasing one problem after another.
if you do get it home and intend working on it from above build yourself a ledge about a foot high all round the engine bay, your back will thank you.
if your truck is still stuck in hawick next weekend ill be able to tow it for you as ill be around there
 
I would also suggest getting a replacement engine and flushing ot the coolant pipe especially the heater matrix. As it sounds like something was clogged up.

Also find a decent mechanic and not just a spanner spinner like the one used so far.
 
your mechanic is right it's a few hours work taking out the engine and stripping it to see what exact problem is even then your into gaskets and head bolt sets to put it all back together not worth the trouble for a car of that age .
if it was mine i'd look for an mot failure or similar that you can see running and drive (cough cough ) then find someone to swap the engine for you if your not adept enough to do it there should be all the parts needed between the two cars to put it back on the road
 
First let me say its easy enough to lift the head on these vehicles with the head in situ, and parts are no problem for these vehicles either, Milner offroad is the place to look check them out on line. How hot did it get unless you seized it I would not expect there to be any damage to the cylinders or pistons, the head will probably be warped it will depend how much, whether you can get it skimmed or not 20 thou is max that can be removed on these heads, it may even be cracked requiring a new head, not the end of the world. Does it start? if so how does it sound? there will be back pressure in the radiator and there may be a whistling sort of sound from the head area. but doubt the bottom end will be damaged. Worst case scenario if you did seize it and there is bottom end damage, I would just change the unit for one from a breakers, Dalcrue at Perth usually have a few or evil bay should be able to pick up a good one for £600 ish easy enough to change over if you have somewhere to sling a block and tackle, though a pit and an assistant would also be good. If you can the work yourself its got to be a better bet than buying another vehicle it.
 
First let me say its easy enough to lift the head on these vehicles with the head in situ, and parts are no problem for these vehicles either, Milner offroad is the place to look check them out on line. How hot did it get unless you seized it I would not expect there to be any damage to the cylinders or pistons, the head will probably be warped it will depend how much, whether you can get it skimmed or not 20 thou is max that can be removed on these heads, it may even be cracked requiring a new head, not the end of the world. Does it start? if so how does it sound? there will be back pressure in the radiator and there may be a whistling sort of sound from the head area. but doubt the bottom end will be damaged. Worst case scenario if you did seize it and there is bottom end damage, I would just change the unit for one from a breakers, Dalcrue at Perth usually have a few or evil bay should be able to pick up a good one for £600 ish easy enough to change over if you have somewhere to sling a block and tackle, though a pit and an assistant would also be good. If you can the work yourself its got to be a better bet than buying another vehicle it.
Sorry can't edit on my netbook first line should read its easy enough to lift the head with the engine in situ.
 
your mechanic is a thief

no-one pulls engines or heads without a leak down pressure test or identifying any symptoms well in advance of lifting spanners

plenty of engines cook and boil over without warping heads or "blowing engines" lord knows I have tried!
Drove a vauxhall cavalier with no coolant until it hit approx 150-170 deg C, lasted about 5 years of abuse after that!
cooked a renault fuego, an audi 90, vauxhall nova, Nissan Patrol, Audi A6, Rover 200. Peugot estate of some description

few spares and head gasket fixes and they all ran without removing an engine

yours was a diesel wasn't it?!
They were designed to run on liquified coal dust for christ sake
just because its water coolant went sky ward why do you think the oil/lubricant was compromised?
why would the cylinders be scored? (other than as expected!)

does it run now?

JB weld is a temp fix for coolant leaks (which you man should have checked already as part of a rad fix)
why did he replace the radiator at all before checking if the engine was cooked!?
why the hell is he going to do a coolant system rebuild before doing a head gasket build I have no idea! coolant is the first thing you have to take out!

I will happily tow it, but as its my ground too it will cost you more than a few days stalking!! :D
 
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your mechanic is a thief no-one pulls engines or heads without a leak down pressure test or identifying any symptoms well in advance of lifting spanners plenty of engines cook and boil over without warping heads or "blowing engines" lord knows I have tried! Drove a vauxhall cavalier with no coolant until it hit approx 150-170 deg C, lasted about 5 years of abuse after that! cooked a renault fuego, an audi 90, vauxhall nova, Nissan Patrol, Audi A6, Rover 200. Peugot estate of some description ​ few spares and head gasket fixes and they all ran without removing an engine yours was a diesel wasn't it?! They were designed to run on liquified coal dust for christ sake just because its water coolant went sky ward why do you think the oil/lubricant was compromised? why would the cylinders be scored? (other than as expected!) does it run now? JB weld is a temp fix for coolant leaks (which you man should have checked already as part of a rad fix) why did he replace the radiator at all before checking if the engine was cooked!? why the hell is he going to do a coolant system rebuild before doing a head gasket build I have no idea! coolant is the first thing you have to take out! I will happily tow it, but as its my ground too it will cost you more than a few days stalking!! :D
A man who talks sense, a pain in the arxe it may be but you don't scrap a vehicle because of a blown cylinder head gasket.
 
and if the engine is goosed you just buy another. even at £2-300 with a limited scrap man warranty you are quids up

plenty of bent or rusty shoguns knocking around with perfectly good engines
pulling heads is easy peasy, you could do that in an afternoon over beer and biscuits with some basics tools and some cheap parts
pulling pistons and rods, rebuilding the associated bearings etc...ballache on a beater like that
 
exactly that was my first post pressure test it and go from there, there is lots you can do my point was what is the extent of damage?.
even if you need to do the engine properly you could do it on a budget and still have a super motor, just had a look on flea bay the parts are not too bad if you found you had to bore the cylinders and get oversize pistons MITSUBISHI PAJERO SHOGUN CANTER DELICA 2.8 D TD 4M40 ENGINE PISTON 0.50MM | eBay
but if you need to go that far then replacing the shells is must as well as checking water pump and oil pump
I also agree your chap is a tool as why would replace the radiator if the engine is goosed,:cuckoo:
 
Out of interest
at wot point do you stop wasting money on investigations when paying some one to do all the investigative work
having just gone down the same route with a L200 that had engine probs
​how much money is enough
 
I presume it boiled when the rad and now has head gasket problems. First thing why on earth does the mechanic want to remove the engine to investigate the problem unless he knows some thing I don't. If the head gasket has gone its a fairly easy job to do on that engine. I would remove the head then inspect the engine and take it from there. But I would expect a skim maybe a pressure test gaskets and bolts I have reused the boots before I would on my own but not for a customer.
 
If your not sorted for a tow! give me a shout and I can tow it for you no probs, (want nothing in return)

​George.
 
Lift the cylinder head, take it to an engine reconditioner and have it pressure tested, it will either pass or fail. If it passes it can be skimmed (not the case with many 2.8 as they have ceramic combustion chambers). If it fails, a new head ready to go on a 2.5 c/w bolts, belts and gaskets is about £700 (from me anyway, but that's decent kit, probably cheaper at Milners).
Whilst the engine is off, turn the engine over via the crankshaft pulley bolt to inspect the condition of the bores. You could also leave some diesel sitting in the bores overnight to check if it is seeping away past the piston rings. If there are no scores in the bores you can feel with your finger you should be fine.
As has been said, cary out a flush of the heater matrix and the engine block, before rebuilding, and also check and/or replace the water pump and thermostat.
 
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These motors are a dawdle to lift the heed and check the bores.
But as has been said, a pressure test will tell all.
I burst the rad on mine and completely blew the motor, fitted a second hand unit for a grand and it ran fine. no great shakes.
Unless some serious damage is apparent, I would imagine that a heed gasket and a heed skim will sort it out, at around 350 bucks or so.
Plenty places down your way that could sort that out, not least S and I Thomson at Gala
 
Out of interest
at wot point do you stop wasting money on investigations when paying some one to do all the investigative work
having just gone down the same route with a L200 that had engine probs
​how much money is enough

If any mechanic planning to do the work charges you for a pressure test walk away!!
 
Lift the cylinder head, take it to an engine reconditioner and have it pressure tested, it will either pass or fail. If it passes it can be skimmed (not the case with many 2.8 as they have ceramic combustion chambers). If it fails, a new head ready to go on a 2.5 c/w bolts, belts and gaskets is about £700 (from me anyway, but that's decent kit, probably cheaper at Milners).
Whilst the engine is off, turn the engine over via the crankshaft pulley bolt to inspect the condition of the bores. You could also leave some diesel sitting in the bores overnight to check if it is seeping away past the piston rings. If there are no scores in the bores you can feel with your finger you should be fine.
As has been said, cary out a flush of the heater matrix and the engine block, before rebuilding, and also check and/or replace the water pump and thermostat.

and if the block has a hairline fracture...!!!
​wot would the symptoms be
 
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