Scope mounts distance apart

stratts

Well-Known Member
I've had/got a few rifles in different calibres but never really given much thought about where to position the mounts until tonight after seeing 'that' video about 'that' scope!! :lol:

Is there generally a certain ideal distance to set mounts apart and does it differ between rifles, scopes and calibres?

Cheers

Stratts
 
As far apart as possible has always been my policy, on rifle that give you a choice that it.
As yet not marked a scope while mounting, adjusting or removing.

Neil. :)
 
I used a piece of stock bar from my work shop instead of the scope its self, this way I can set the mounts and settle the rings with out any chance of marking the tube!
If you intend to use a scope mounted lamp then make sure leave room for the bracket it when working out your set up!!
Tim.243
 
I try to set them as far a part as possible but leave at least 1cm of tube free at each end.

I bought a Weaver scope alignment kit with the 25 & 30mm lapping bars etc. and having used it on my own and several fellow shooters rifles I was surprised just how many scope rings were not properly aligned.
 
Last edited:
The original perfect distance was 7.2" this worked so that the old adjustable scope mounts stayed true to their calibrations. Lyman, Fecker and Unertl all made micrometer click adjustable mounts for their long type scopes and 7.2" was the distance to that they really did give 1/4 Minute clicks that moved the POI 1/4 minute.

This information was lifted from some of Col Townsend Whelen's writings.
 
I try to set them as far a part as possible but leave at least 1cm of tube free at each end.

I bought a Weaver scope alignment kit with the 25 & 30mm lapping bars etc. and having used it on my own and several fellow shooters rifles I was surprised just how many scope rings were not properly aligned.

I don't quite understand what you mean about scope rings not properly aligned mate?

It seems like I've been doing the same as you guys ref distance and leaving a gap for my torch mounts though,

Cheers
 
I don't quite understand what you mean about scope rings not properly aligned mate?

Just because you bought the proper rings and bases for your rifle, do not imagine that the bores of the two rings actually line up.
There is always a tolerance in any manufacturing process, and when rifle, bases and rings come from different makers you can pretty
much guarantee the rings will be out of line to some extent.

Neil. :)
 
as tim says by using a bar with the same OD/ ie 25 mil or 30 etc , you locate you base part of scope ring on the rifle this will aline both bases to each other and remove any chance of them not being aligned, if when you have set them up n' locked them down the bar feels tight you know that they are not set up in line or may just need lapping in, if this is the case i use lapping paste and lap the rings until all is well with no snags or other you can tell when you have got it right the bar will slide like a smooth thing lol. Then i clean the bar and make tight the rings on the bar but only at 15 inch pounds. Then after all is set true i replace the bar with the scope . If i am going to use a lamp on top i use set back rings and a longer body scope so the ring is as much in the center of the tube as it can be And allow the room for the lamp ring/clamp

NB: Scope rings are generally torqued to 15- 25 INCH pounds, to convert that to foot pounds is 1.25 Foot pound equals 15 In. pounds, 25 Inch pounds equals 2.08 foot pounds
 
Ah I see thanks I've never done that before I just put the mount bases on 1st, nip them up, slap the scope on, tighten the tops up until they won't do up any more :eek: and away we go (slightly shoertened version but you know what I mean!!)

I think I may have a few nights in the workshop setting things up with a tad more precision and get meself a torque screwdriver,

Cheers
 
:rofl: your get a bad name slapping scopes on lol. its as easy as brushing your teeth feller or crossing the road stop look keep calm and carry on :old:
 
Thanks for that, like I said just slap it on and away you go!! :doh:

Looks like I need to drop into my friendly on site engineering workshop and get some bits made up!! You reckon the lapping bar and alignment bars are exactly the same diameter?
 
Well get your self a digital vernier caliper (around a £10 off fley bay) and then you can check all sorts of stuff!!
The slap it on and away you go....will not let you in the reloading club for sure:old:
Depends if you are a metric pup or blessed with the knowledge of how to divide by 25.4:rofl:
What ever diameter your tube is, a firm will sell you a bit of stock bright mild and spin points on the end and give you the hacksaw to do the rest....
Tim.243
 
as tim says by using a bar with the same OD/ ie 25 mil or 30 etc ,

NB: Scope rings are generally torqued to 15- 25 INCH pounds, to convert that to foot pounds is 1.25 Foot pound equals 15 In. pounds, 25 Inch pounds equals 2.08 foot pounds



Oh dear ...................... oh deary me. Just how many proper 25mm scopes tubes does one see?

Also in my own experience most standard bright metal stock bars are slightly under size. and many are not parallel or have spirals down them from the rolling process.

What one needs is ground stock which is much more expensive.

​For those who may not realise or know 1" = 25.4mm.. 25mm = 0.984"
 
Thanks for that, like I said just slap it on and away you go!! :doh:

Looks like I need to drop into my friendly on site engineering workshop and get some bits made up!! You reckon the lapping bar and alignment bars are exactly the same diameter?

Putting a rail on the rifle is the way to go I think. I'm currently moving over to rails on my rifles and would have saved myself a lot of time and money if I had done that 15 years ago.
Regards
​JCS
 
A rail does not mean your rings will be in line, just makes it easier to swap scopes about.

AN 18 inch length of ground 1 inch tool steel cost me £15 at an engineering supplies, been using the same piece for years now.
Just try to use the full length when lapping or you will in the end thin the working bit down a little.

Neil. :)
 
Oh dear ...................... oh deary me. Just how many proper 25mm scopes tubes does one see?

Also in my own experience most standard bright metal stock bars are slightly under size. and many are not parallel or have spirals down them from the rolling process.

What one needs is ground stock which is much more expensive.

​For those who may not realise or know 1" = 25.4mm.. 25mm = 0.984"

Haha we have gone from a lad asking a couple of questions and a bit of banter. Know you want to turn him into a toolmaker..
Armed with his calliper, one would hope he would check his tube and take advice from the chap at the engineering work shop...
A bit of silver steel would be ideal, however I would guess this lad is on a budget and in truth you only need to take off any potential high spots and if the bright mild was a couple of thou down the tolerance in the medium would take that up. Which in the hands of some one for the first time would not be a bad thing as a size piece + the medium would potentially end up with it going over size...
By rotating his bar 180 degrees then he would even out any tolerance issues much the same as you would cross file something or hand scrape...
Failing that you could send him your set and that would save all this typing....Do you have a set to lend him you made?




It is a shame you are so negative about something that will probably never happen...
Tim.243
 
Back
Top