Can't get your moderator apart?

Donkey Basher

Well-Known Member
Top tip for anyone with an A-TEC Maxim or any other modular type of moderator who finds they can't separate the individual elements for cleaning just using their hands to grip it.

Find an offcut of 1" thick plywood and cut two pieces about 6"x3". Get a suitable sized hole saw and put a hole (1 3/4" for my Maxim, 1 1/2" for the CMM) at one end on both and then make a 'V' shaped cut from the other end up to the hole.

This will allow you to get extra purchase on the moderator and use a bit of leverage to assist in undoing it.

If this doesn't work then next stage is to clamp one piece in a vice and then use an 8" or 10" G clamp on the other piece - you don't need a lot of compression force, just enough to stop the wood turning, but the extra leverage the clamp gives will get most seized moderators apart.

I also have a pair of these for A-TEC CMM moderators as they are steel and are prone to rust especially if used in humid or wet conditions... even when given a blast of WD40 after being used.

 
Or you could fire 2 shots through it to warm it up and unscrew it then apply grease to the threads of each section then you wont have any trouble in future !
 
Or use a hair dryer to heat up the moderator then try unscrewing with rubber gloves on for more grip.
 
Whats wrong with using just a strap wrench? Putting thin alloy in a vice and using a g-cramp sound like a recipe for disaster to be honest.
 
I have two for an Atec moderator I used to have.
They now sit in the tool box doing nothing, mainly because I would never again own a strippable moderator.

Neil. :)
I would appreciate knowing the reasons why you will not have another strippable moderator. I have a T8 on the 30-06 and a T4 on the .243 and keep them well oiled however I was thinking of getting something lighter. I don't want to make an avoidable mistake.
 
Whats wrong with using just a strap wrench? Putting thin alloy in a vice and using a g-cramp sound like a recipe for disaster to be honest.


Exactly what I use don't matter what grease I use there is always at least 1 stubborn baffle
 
I would appreciate knowing the reasons why you will not have another strippable moderator. I have a T8 on the 30-06 and a T4 on the .243 and keep them well oiled however I was thinking of getting something lighter. I don't want to make an avoidable mistake.

I used to have an older pess t12, the original strippable one, after finding the thing about to come apart afer a range session I said never again.
But I did, I then bought a CMM6, after a 100 rounds on a range day it never came apart again, seized solid at all but two of the 6 or 7 joins.

Neil. :)
 
I would appreciate knowing the reasons why you will not have another strippable moderator. I have a T8 on the 30-06 and a T4 on the .243 and keep them well oiled however I was thinking of getting something lighter. I don't want to make an avoidable mistake.

I agree with Neil ! I used to have T8's then bought a SL5, its lighter than a T8. But it looks like its heavier.
So then I bought a CMM4 as I was seduced by the light weight and its strippable, which it was for 6 months. All threads have been greased from new but one section will not come apart.
It also gas cut quite badly to start with but that seams to have stopped.
And the rifle I bought it for did not like it at all and would not group with it on. So it was back to the SL5 and sub 1" groups
 
Glad you like the SL5, I'm waiting for mine to arrive now.
I would have liked to go lighter, but all the lighter mods seem to be either strippable or alloy, or both :doh:

Neil. :)
 
I've had 2 A tec cmm 4's for a few years now loads of shots through them on the range out in the field in all weathers, not a single problem take them apart and they are like new small amount of burnt powder on the inside which you can wipe of with a cloth.So light you don't even know its on the end of ya gun
 
small amount of copper grease on the threads sort it out for you, leave on radiator for half hour then separate:thumb:


Spot-on, was going to mention this in response to the PES mod post above. Struggled with mine the first time for stripping to clean Cu grease liberally applied to threads and that sucker came apart with no issue.
 
Or you could fire 2 shots through it to warm it up and unscrew it then apply grease to the threads of each section then you wont have any trouble in future !

FYI, I tried this recently (it appearing to be the easiest method) and I still couldn't get the last two blighters undone to put any grease on the threads. It's my fault for leaving it so long but I feel I wasted three rounds and lost a case in the process. I'll be trying the radiator or hair dryer technique next. I would say for anyone trying hard with your hands to undo them, be careful of slipping on the leading threads when they do come undone - I did and it was b deep cut left with gunk in it.
 
If you loosen the threads on the baffles after cleaning and re assembly ,remembering to tighten again before use! They wiill not seize...
 
I have just bought a new A-Tec CMM4 and it has a label stuck to it by Jacksons the importer stating that it should not be taken apart by unauthorised persons as that may void the warranty.
Perhaps someone has cross threaded one while reassembling one ;)
Incidentally, I noticed, and it has been said before, that some mods improve their ability to reduce noise after a certain amount of carbon has lined the inside so perhaps all this modular business is just a sales ploy.
 
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I used a strap wrench for my Roedale Delta; it worked perfectly and with no damage to the finish.
 
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