Cleaning brass

wozzad

Member
Fairly new to reloading.

I understand the need to clean brass, but can't seem to find information regarding different methods. I.e tumbler Vs ultrasonic vs solution etc.

would like to keep costs down for reloading, and don't need stupidly polished brass. As long as it's functional.

Can built a media tumbler with no issues....but which media should I use? I read of people using walnut husk.....easily available?

for reference it'll be 22-250 brass I'm cleaning. In bulk(250rds)
 
Fairly new to reloading.

I understand the need to clean brass, but can't seem to find information regarding different methods. I.e tumbler Vs ultrasonic vs solution etc.

would like to keep costs down for reloading, and don't need stupidly polished brass. As long as it's functional.

Can built a media tumbler with no issues....but which media should I use? I read of people using walnut husk.....easily available?

for reference it'll be 22-250 brass I'm cleaning. In bulk(250rds)

I have found joy in ultrasonic cleaning. I have just a small one made for dentures (Holds about 80, 308) and it gets the brass c-l-e-a-n. Not polished, but squeaky clean inside and out, including the dreaded primer pockets. I like Hornady's U/S case cleaning concentrate. Pricey but makes gallons. There are a number of home made U/S fluid recipes in the internet though....~Muir
 
If your fairly handy then I would have a think about making a rotary tumbler yourself - There's plenty Youtube videos to give you ideas and it can be a really simple design. If you can find a small continuous rated motor, about 10th HP 1425 rpm would do. Our local "Pound stretcher" shop has stainless steel drums (Bread bins) about 10" diameter for £9.95.


For dry tumbling I always used to use Walnut shell media - I understand that you can now get this from the pet shop as lizard bedding.
I now wet tumble with stainless steel media.
Here's a little tumbler I made many years ago for .32 S&W pistol cases.
 
The biggest difference I found between using my tumbler and my U/S cleaner is;
I don't have to remove the bits of tumbling media after using the U/S,
The U/S cleans the primer pockets,
The U/S is quicker (about ten minutes per batch of 20 - 40 cases depending on calibre),
I can do a small batch of cases in the U/S,

I do have to dry the cases (easily done either on a warm radiator over night or in the oven at 100C for about 15 minutes).
 
ALDI - Ultrasonic Cleaner

I am off down my local Aldi to get one of these. Only £22.99 and the vinegar will be pennies at Aldi.

Roestalker from on the SD has put a video of his results on youtube.

Cheap Lidl Ultrasonic Cleaner review. How to clean brass / cases for reloading tutorial video. - YouTubeo

My plan is to de-cap the cases clean the primer pocket and de bur using one of these Opticswarehouse Lyman Case Trimmers and Case Reloading Tools and tumble in walnut media, sift as normal.

Then use the ultrasonic cleaner to remove any walnut media and fully clean primer pocket and inside of the case. Rinse in clean fresh water and then dry in a warmish oven standing on an absorbent cloth.
 
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My plan is to de-cap the cases clean the primer pocket and de bur using one of these Opticswarehouse Lyman Case Trimmers and Case Reloading Tools and tumble in walnut media, sift as normal.

Then use the ultrasonic cleaner to remove any walnut media and fully clean primer pocket and inside of the case. Rinse in clean fresh water and then dry in a warmish oven standing on an absorbent cloth.

I use one of those cleaners for small batches of target rounds, very good for what they cost.

After de-capping try not cleaning the pockets then do a batch in the U/S cleaner and see how they look, it might save you some time and effort.
 
I use one of those cleaners for small batches of target rounds, very good for what they cost.

After de-capping try not cleaning the pockets then do a batch in the U/S cleaner and see how they look, it might save you some time and effort.

Cheers for that, I may try a batch using both methods and see what the difference is. I will post some photo's if I remember.
 
Wozzard with tongue firmly in cheek I challenge your opening statement. Within reason there's no need to clean brass but most of us do it for the following reasons;

1. Cosmetic, it simply looks better.
2. Prevents dirt and grit from scratching your reloading dies.
3. You can see any defects in cases easier during inspection and prior to reloading.

You can actually get away with simply washing brass in warm soapy water if you decide to clean it. Personally I have both a small ultra-sonic cleaner and a vibratory cleaner but if I was setting up again from scratch I would think about using a tumbler and stainless steel pins/rods.
 
Wozzard with tongue firmly in cheek I challenge your opening statement. Within reason there's no need to clean brass but most of us do it for the following reasons;

1. Cosmetic, it simply looks better.
2. Prevents dirt and grit from scratching your reloading dies.
3. You can see any defects in cases easier during inspection and prior to reloading.

You can actually get away with simply washing brass in warm soapy water if you decide to clean it. Personally I have both a small ultra-sonic cleaner and a vibratory cleaner but if I was setting up again from scratch I would think about using a tumbler and stainless steel pins/rods.

Any idea where you can get the stainless pins/rods. I have done a google search and found this in the USA. Stainless Tumbling Media | Stainless Steel Media 5lbs.

I assume this is what you mean?
 
That's the stuff. There's someone selling it in the classified section of the site but unfortunately their name escapes me for the time being. If you do a simple site search you should find it. Also CSL made mention of going over to this system for cleaning his cases. He has posted a sticky on the reloading process on the top of the reloading section. Perhaps he has mentioned his supplier.
 
Could always borrow a tumbler for a night,mine does 100 odd 22/250 in a couple of hours,Lyman one if I remember right.
 
I use sonic cleaner with sea clean solution (but I do manufacture it) on all my brass
I find if you use hot water from the tap and sea clean on the first 5 to 10min then empty and refill with clean water for 5mins
 
Thanks for all the comments guys.

I'll buy a cheap us cleaner. Wife likes to clean her ring in one too.............

at at the same time, I'll keep an eye on fleabay for a cheap motor that suits. Used to have a tumbler many moons ago......wish I'd kept it!

anyone use a vibrating cleaner out of interest? (Slower than u/s) with powdered media?
 
tumbler

Me an a mate use a vibrating tumbler just pass it between us as ness,does what its supposed to do as said your welcome to a shot of it.
 
Has anyone used a stainless steel thumbler? From reviews they appear to be the method of cleaning brass and also in the primer pocket
 
anyone use a vibrating cleaner out of interest? (Slower than u/s) with powdered media?

I bought a small US cleaner from Lidl a few years ago, but eventually gave up. It could only cope with a handful of cases, and the maximum setting on the timer (a few minutes) was so short that it had to be run several times to have any effect. So you had to stand over it and keep re-triggering. It also made a peculiarly irritating noise. I never managed to get the squeaky clean results others report. I tried various homebrew potions. The one that worked best used citric acid. However I found I got pretty much the same results just by soaking in the acid solution without any ultrasonic action.

I'm sure my experience was unlucky, and that a heavier duty US cleaner could work well. Perhaps I should try again with the "Sea Clean" solution.

So I bought a Lyman "Turbo Twin" vibratory tumbler for ISTR £70. This has a large and a small bowl. The large bowl copes with about 150 .308 cases, the small bowl half as much.

The small bowl can also be used with liquids e.g. for rock polishing, and if anyone would lend me some SS pins I'd like to see whether it could be used with them too.

You can get away with stuffing more in, e.g. I've tumbled some badly corroded .303 cases in batches of 200. An overnight run got them better than new.

I use walnut shell reptile bedding, which is very economical. The tumbler takes 2 pounds. Each load lasts for at least ten runs (I find it lasts much much longer). It works fine as-is, but I add a teaspoon of jewellers' rouge for a very high polish. Others suggest e.g. a dollop of brasso.

With reasonably clean brass (e.g. nicely polished previously) it only takes about 2 hours to run.

I de-prime before tumbling, and find the primer pockets do get cleaned sufficiently enough that it isn't really necessary to do any further brushing or scraping. No they are not pristine, but what remains is not enough to affect primer seating. Likewise the interior is not pristine, but all loose material has been removed and I see no need to scrape it back to bare metal.

The SS pin wet-tumbling process looks excellent, and if I could justify the cost (about £250 to get started) and was starting again, I'd be tempted. It appears to clean thoroughly inside and out, (which is nice if you are OCD, but not actually necessary) and gives a good surface finish, but not the high polish that can be achieved with a dry vibratory process.

According to the specifications, the 15 and 17lb rotary tumblers have much the same capacity as my Lyman 1200, and running times are similar. With the wet process there is also drying time required.

An alternative supplier to Spud is http://jdreloading.com/ who is also a trade member here.
 
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