Barrel break-in ,how do you do yours ?

Johno100

Well-Known Member
Barrel break-in ,how do you do yours ?

There seems to be a few schools of thought on this , what system do you use and why?
 
my way is one shot clean one for ten cool down each shot then shoot 3 clean cool down then again for 4 times then 10 then clean then again then another deep clean then i am away to fowl it up zero then 3x each for bottom min top or until i find a happy load then clean use my load to fowl the rifle and only deep clean after every 50 rounds and so on .wrong or right this is how i do mine
 
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Barrel break-in ,how do you do yours ?

There seems to be a few schools of thought on this , what system do you use and why?
Don't mean to me a creep, but this topic is beaten to death about every week. You might try searching back a few days before people like me answer:

I don't. I just shoot it. Barrel break in is a bunch of hooey.

Or someone else puts up a link to the massage therapy school of barrel break in.
~Muir
 
Don't mean to me a creep, but this topic is beaten to death about every week. You might try searching back a few days before people like me answer:

I don't. I just shoot it. Barrel break in is a bunch of hooey.

Or someone else puts up a link to the massage therapy school of barrel break in.
~Muir
What,s hooey sounds like good stuff , dose it came in a Bottle like sweet's 7.62 ;)
 
I don't, just take it slow and easy to start, don't let it get hot.
All that means to me is a minute or so between shots while zeroing a new rifle.
I will clean it after each use to start with until I see if or how badly it fouls, then a good clean every
50 or so rounds, the exception is the hornet, clean every 100 to 150 rounds.
After each trip out I single pull through with a bore snake, just remove loose crud and any dampness.

Neil.
 
i don't, just take it slow and easy to start, don't let it get hot.
All that means to me is a minute or so between shots while zeroing a new rifle.
I will clean it after each use to start with until i see if or how badly it fouls, then a good clean every
50 or so rounds, the exception is the hornet, clean every 100 to 150 rounds.
After each trip out i single pull through with a bore snake, just remove loose crud and any dampness.

Neil.

x2

ab
 
I realise opinion is divided on Barrel Break-in but I will pose the following for those that argue against.
My 6.5X284 came from a well known Builder with a nice and clean Krieger Barrel fitted. I fired 1 shot and was surprised to see heavy copper fouling visible in the muzzle and for several inches back up the Barrel. You could feel the tight spot when pushing a solvent soaked patch down. Now what would the anti break-in people have done? Just kept shooting Bullets down the fouled barrel? It took me the best part of a day of shooting and cleaning to get to a point where the barrel did not copper. It now shoots very well and cleaning is a breeze, it does not lay copper down at all.
I think what I did helped with that particular barrel but my opinion is not entrenched and I am always willing to learn. I am also not entirely sure just what I did to the Barrel that helped it either.
My other barrels, Lilja, Shilen and Walther were all excellent. Couple of shots. no tight spots after powder fouling removed and no blue on the patch. Job done and just go shooting.

Yorkie.
 
I realise opinion is divided on Barrel Break-in but I will pose the following for those that argue against.
My 6.5X284 came from a well known Builder with a nice and clean Krieger Barrel fitted. I fired 1 shot and was surprised to see heavy copper fouling visible in the muzzle and for several inches back up the Barrel. You could feel the tight spot when pushing a solvent soaked patch down. Now what would the anti break-in people have done? Just kept shooting Bullets down the fouled barrel? It took me the best part of a day of shooting and cleaning to get to a point where the barrel did not copper. It now shoots very well and cleaning is a breeze, it does not lay copper down at all.
I think what I did helped with that particular barrel but my opinion is not entrenched and I am always willing to learn. I am also not entirely sure just what I did to the Barrel that helped it either.
My other barrels, Lilja, Shilen and Walther were all excellent. Couple of shots. no tight spots after powder fouling removed and no blue on the patch. Job done and just go shooting.

Yorkie.

I have a 308 that will apparently foul with two different brands of bullet. Bright orange. Other brands, not so.~Muir
 
Love that video... my kind of shooter :D

Barrel break in.... ******** hahaha http://www.6mmbr.com/gailmcmbreakin.html

I have never broke in a barrel, never had any isues up to and including 1,000 yards... I'm also of the opinion that a hunting riflr barrel should be left well alone, pull through before and after an outing but thats it... clean it and oil it and all you will get is 1 shot going where you want it to... and another 5 shots before every shot lands there or there abouts... target rifles where you can push 10 foulers through before you start scoring, fair enough, but my hunting rifle doesnt get gutted until the groups start opening up... which, hasn't happened yet.... on any of them!
 
HOWA UK seem to think its worthwhile breaking a barrel in ...

http://howa-rifles.co.uk/downloads/Howa-Break-in-Procedure.pdf

Total nonsense.
If a barrel is going to 'walk' it is determined at the manufacturing time, not during initial firing. My Tikka 7-08 was fired with 50 consecutive rounds right out of the box in (warm weather) without cleaning. It doesn't "walk" as I shoot it because it's a good barrel. Knowing UK shooters penchant for returning items that don't function exactly as they envisioned they should, it was probably written as an "out" to any complaints about inaccuracy.~Muir
 
1. Take new factory rifle from box.
2. Place in rifle clamp.
3. Coat 2 flannel patches with JB Bore Compound and place squarely over muzzle.
4. Insert wooden pencil into centre of patch and force contact with crown.
5. Spin pencil as if lighting fire for 30 seconds and stop.
6. Wrap an undersized Parker-Hale cleaning jag with 4X2 flannel.
7. Coat flannel with oodles of JB Bore Compound
8. Rod bore with some 40 strokes.
9. Thoroughly clean bore, crown and chamber with solvent.
10. Take to range for zeroing and/or load development.
11. Clean bore thereafter as you prefer.

K
 
just take the rifle out of the box, pull through, zero then go shoot stuff. Well to be fair if you can't then you need to take it back cause it's s&!*
 
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