Bedding A Wee Stutzen

Klenchblaize

Well-Known Member
I'm about to correctly bed what henceforth will be known as my Freezer & Large Screwdriver Rifle.

Given its of stutzen configuration I am toying with the idea of FULLY bedding the barrel.

Does anyone have first-hand experience of such an approach?

Thanks

K
 
What make is it, and why would you want fully bed the barrel ? My stutzen has a fully floated barrel
 
K

You could be asking for trouble! Knowing how tweaky stutzens can be to get barrel either fully floated or nose pads tuned, You could be playing for ages!

What rifle is it?

Where is the barrel bedded now & wot's wrong with it? & does it shoot straight now?

If it really NEEDS re-bedding - sure do that - under the action & replicate any original pressure point contacts - but let the barrel have some of its natural freedom to "ring". Full length contact invites all kinds of stress & damping interference problems.

If it ain't bust - don't mend it!


Ian
 
Having done a few I have a recipe that usually works. I bed the action and a couple of inches of barrel down tight. I put a couple of layers of duct tape on the rest of the barrel to provide some breathing room for the barrel channel. I cut a long groove in the barrel channel that will accept a piece of threaded rod extending to as near the muzzle as possible. If the rifle has a metal tip I eihter modify it to remove contact with the barrel or make a new free-floating version of rosewood or ebony. When the stock is ready for bedding I fill the channel for the rod with epoxy, drop the rod it and then fill the other areas to include the full barrel channel for bedding with epoxy before setting in the barrel/action. If I have properly coated the metal parts (to include the duct taped barreL) everything comes out easily and I have a properly bedded stuzen with room for the barrel to move and no other contact with the barrel. The entire channel is now sealed with epoxy and it is virtually as stable as a fiberglas stock but with the warmth of wood.

SS
 
Thanks for that. If I've interprited this correctly you're decribing a draditional action bedding procedure with a cunning approach to whippy forend stiffening?

Cheers


K
 
Would a tubular section of carbon fibre perform well enough to be used instead of the metal bar? I'm thinking this might upset the balance less?
 
Just to throw in an alternative view, Craig Boddington in accurate rifles in a whole chapter on bedding recounts how with a Mannlicher stocked rifle free floating etc didn't work. What did work was positive pressure bedding about half way along the barrel at the point where the forend normally is. You can try this easily by packing a business card or two under the barrel at that point and try it.

I fully glass lass bedded my 22rf and it works beautifully. I think the key is consistency. If the barrel is full bedded make sure it's properly bedded with a pit of pressure. If it's floating make sure it is truly floating. What causes problems is a barrel that's meant to be floating, but is sometimes touched by the forend, or fingers etc.
 
Would a tubular section of carbon fibre perform well enough to be used instead of the metal bar? I'm thinking this might upset the balance less?

Probably and using. Some closed cell foam down the middle of the carbon tube would stiffen it even further.
 
I don't know what's wrong with you, Klench. Everyone knows that stutzens are rubbish and that you'd be irresponsible to even consider stalking with one.
 
christ .222 stutzen....mthats rung a bell

im sure my old man has a BSA .222 stutzen with double set trigger in his cabinet that i bet hasnt seen light of day for years.....
cracking thing if i remember right...have to ask him dig it out for a nosey

paul
 
stocks famous for their rigidity.....

i suspect your metal reinforced wood is significantly more stable than the host of hollow "dildo" stocks out there

You are right with some, but not all. Fitting a stiff object in the centre of a stock or forend is exactly where one does not want it.
edi
 
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christ .222 stutzen....mthats rung a bell

im sure my old man has a BSA .222 stutzen with double set trigger in his cabinet that i bet hasnt seen light of day for years.....
cracking thing if i remember right...have to ask him dig it out for a nosey

paul

Remington 600 Mohawk.
 
Now why is it necessary to try and improve the perfect rifle design with rods and stuff unless the original bedding has been damaged by over tightening the action screws.
 
Remington 600 Mohawk.

Very cool little rifles , I missed one in 308 a while back , but I'm still looking. Are you still using the original trigger guard / floorplate assembly ? I only ask because there's a local guy who makes steel replacement units for a very reasonable price . One of the members at my gun club has one on his 600 , it's a definite improvement . If your interested drop me a line .

AB
 
Very cool little rifles , I missed one in 308 a while back , but I'm still looking. Are you still using the original trigger guard / floorplate assembly ? I only ask because there's a local guy who makes steel replacement units for a very reasonable price . One of the members at my gun club has one on his 600 , it's a definite improvement . If your interested drop me a line .

AB

Thank AB

I've been looking at what's still available by way of replacement for the horrid plastic unit but until I determine if it has the capacity to shoot groups of an acceptable size I'll put your kind offer in my "On Hold" file please.

Love to see a picture though and does he make them from steel or aluminium?

Cheers

K
 
Thank AB

I've been looking at what's still available by way of replacement for the horrid plastic unit but until I determine if it has the capacity to shoot groups of an acceptable size I'll put your kind offer in my "On Hold" file please.

Love to see a picture though and does he make them from steel or aluminium?

Cheers

K

No worries , drop me a line anytime . As far as I know , they're steel , but I'll check and find out . I'll try and sort out a picture for you , the one I looked at was almost identical to the factory floorplate and had a flat finish . It could be anodized aluminum or glass beaded steel, I'll make some inquiries and keep you posted .

AB
 
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