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Thread: Wood refurb

  1. #1

    Wood refurb

    Not sure if this has already been covered ? Sorry of or has but I'm stripping the stock on a old winchester and was just going to wore wool it however the check on the grip will need stripped back? Is paint stripper the best way to do it ? If so will I get a different colour from the wood ? I was going to tru oil it ? Or is there anything better ?

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    hi try the search box on refurbs on right hand side ,theres a few threads on there over last few months i think cheers doug,

  3. #3
    For the chequering white sprite or better acetone with a stiff toothbrush removes most gunk.

    Stripping depends on the finish varnishes use a stripper oil use acetone to remove it.

    IMHO Tru oil is rubbish fine for file handles and walking sticks but not guns. It looks ok for a few months but a working shotgun or rifle soon shows it's weakness. It's not really an oil it's spar varnish base. A BLO and beeswax mix is best IMHO I make my own but Trade Secrets and Napier do quite good pre made stuff.

  4. #4
    Hi Hulse

    ever thought of cerakote,

    on this link you will see my stock after it was done and read on and you will see the work James jagerSA done to get it back to normal. (but better)


    ps:when i stripped a stock a few years back i used nitromors, then 0000 wool, masked of the checkering and used a scalpel to clean up the edge of it, turned out very well and the rifle is still with a mate, with no complaints.
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  5. #5
    How old a Winchester is it? Does it have the red stain, or is it over the natural blonde walnut? American walnut, used in furniture and gunstocks, is mostly a dark grey-brown, not the straight grain blond wood you would see on a Mannlicher, for example. Winchester finishes changed over the years, from 1866 onward, as new varnishes were developed, then shellacs, then synthetics and synthetic-oil blends, now two-part spray finishes.

    Winchester used, sort of as their tradememark, a red alchohol stain, especially on the Model 71 and 70. The protective finish was a sprayed lacquer, sanded out by hand between a few coats, the same as an automobile of that era would be.

    The modern Winchester Model 70 Classic has some in natural black walnut, some in unstained light walnut ( probably the least expensive Claro from old orchards), and some in red stained walnut ( my Featherweight and Express ). Rifles from the late 1980s, both pre-FN and now, use a catalyzed varnish, which is really a mix, a very durable finish developed for nicer kitchen cabinets, applied with HPLV spray.

    Stripping these modern finishes is much more difficult. The old ones, you can get off with lacquer thinner and some 000 steel wool. Pilkington and Galazan make finishes and kits with stain for those who want to try to duplicate the original look. There are some mighty good, and good-looking aerosol finishes. I know that sounds like heresy, but what finish you put on the rifle depends on how you intend to use it.

    The only paint stripper to use on the modern finishes like polyurethanes and two part urethanes ( Remington 700 - DuPont RKW finish ) is the orange stuff from Walmart. This finish had the same base as their IMRON paint, used for tractors, horse trailers, aircraft, and for a while by Mercedes after the lacquer era. Tough stuff. So is the similar satin finish used by Winchester now.

  6. #6
    Some of this is already covered in the post on Parker Hale stock. If you need to clean out the chequering, a junior hacksaw blade can be used CAREFULLY.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by lochty View Post
    Some of this is already covered in the post on Parker Hale stock. If you need to clean out the chequering, a junior hacksaw blade can be used CAREFULLY.

    Not it the best plan IMHO I repair a fair few stock for people with similar ideas rarely comes out well.

  8. #8
    I try to avoid the checkering area as much as possible. However, if it needs to be done, go lightly. Have you ever done checkering? It should not be too bad to do, since it is already there. All you have to do is go over what they did.

    There are a lot of good Midway videos on YouTube on checkering.

    Also, I NEVER use stripper - it kills the grain.

    I simply sand my stocks and rub in oil, no clear coat. Start sanding in the most difficult areas first too.

  9. #9
    Use a stiff toothbrush and acetone to remove the gunk from chequering.
    I and most people find it much easier to start chequering from scratch than recut another mans lines as you reliant on his being straight and your tool never quite match his so you have to use single line tools.

    My personal view is it's often better to as a professional to re cut the lines for you and not as expensive as most think.

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