From the picture it appears the bottom of the action is not in contact with the stock. The beauty of a big flat bottomed action is the ease of getting a proper mating surface between the action and stock. The lug should not bottom out in the recess, when bedding a stock I normally put a couple of layers of tape on the bottom, sides, and front of the lug so the only contact is in the rear of the lug. This has the added benefit of making the action easier to get out of the stock after the bedded has cured. I would recommend the action be properly bedded, full-length. You may save a little glue using the spot front and rear technique but is just cutting a corner that there is no need to cut. I normally include the first three inches of the barrel on hunting rifles with the remainder floated. For rifles used a lot in wet environs I like to put in a coat of glue (acraglas) on the entire barrel channel. During the bedding process I use 2 layers of duct tape on the barrel to get it freefloated. I often use a two-step procedure, I bed first the guard, the action is installed but not bedded. This keeps everything in alignment. Once cured, I drill out the screw holes to a diameter large enough to accept pillars. Pillars are then cut to the required length. The pillars are then de-greased and coated on the outside with acraglas before being inserted into the holes. The barreled action is then dropped into the prepped stock (acraglas in action area/barrel channel) and the screws tightened very snug. Of course there is a good coat of mold release on everthing I want to take aprt again later!! I usually try to loosen and re-tighten the guard screws every hour or so for the first 8 hours. With acraglas I am usually able to do some good clean-up around the action using a razor blade after 10-12 hours with disassembly and final finishing after 24 hours.
SS