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Thread: Tikka t3 synthetic stock

  1. #1

    Tikka t3 synthetic stock

    Has anyone tried doing a DIY paint job on a synthetic factory stock for a Tikka t3? I'm thinking about spraying mine as the black stock looks abit 'naff'. Does the stock require and type of prep before spraying? Any advice/info or photos would be hugely appreciated.

  2. #2
    I like the way my T3 Lite black stock looks, but I also like the dipped camo on my Steyr Pro Hunter .308.

    You might look at dipping. There is a recent thread on that in TSD.

    I have painted a few scuffed up stocks. I use Krylon paint made for plastic furniture., which comes in about four US Army camo colors, as well. If the stock has been used, I would gently degrease it with some hot water. A little dish detergent would be better, but make sure you rinse it all off with warm water. The T3 stock is pretty smooth, so you may need to scuff it up a bit with some 000 steel wool. It is a cross-linked polypropylene, and will paint up well.

    You can use leaves and grass, like this video, but do a better job of sharp edges by cutting up bumper stickers, or paper, or one green leaf at a time that you can lay flat, and using those for masks.

    Remember, you have to think in reverse, of not painting, but masking over a leaf shape while you paint the background color. Cutting some digital masks works well. You can paint part of the stock, peel them off, and reuse them. And you can look at some digital camo stocks and copy those for a really good look.

    The biggest thing is to put the pattern so it breaks up the sharp outline. And use more lighter colors of nature, so it will not "close up" at a distance, or in shadows. Make it match nature in daylight.

    Before you do this, you might want to just use the stick on camo or removable archer's bow tape. That is what I do on my T3 Stainless. It is a good, cheap way to try out and find the look you want.
    Last edited by Southern; 03-05-2014 at 21:51. Reason: correction: = polypropylene

  3. #3
    Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I've seen a couple of my pals stocks which they have done in a textured paint from B&Q which looks very smart and also very practical, just wasn't sure how and if the Tikka stock would give a good adhesion.

  4. #4
    Adhesion depends upon the paint as well as the material. ABS, used for the Steyr SSG-69 stock, is also the material of modern car bumpers, which are molded in a color, but also take paint well.

    Buy a paint made for plastics. You don't want a metal or wood paint with a solvent in there which will attack the plastic. To test it, remove the recoil pad and spray some inside, out of sight, let it cure for a week, and see how it stands up to scratching it with your fingernail.

  5. #5
    Southern you are always mentioning that the T3 stock is made of polycarbonate??? I was always convinced it wasn't.
    When I checked a Lite stock it certainly seemed more like a polyolefin, burns like PP/PE and smells like it too.
    I just checked the Tikka Website where it states a glass fiber reinforced coplolymer polypropylene. This makesa big difference when coating. Nothing really sticks to polyethylene, however I noticed when bedding one can achieve some adhesion due to the sticking out glass fibre bits after sanding. Over time most coating will peel of, adhesion is not great. There might be some special polypropylene primers as there is a solution to prep PE/PP for superglue.
    If painting a T3 stock I recon best would be to sand every bit of it to get the glass reinforcement to stick out of the surface somewhat.

  6. #6
    You are right. I knew better, and typed polycarbonate, knowing it was a cross-linked PPE, because I had asked them long ago. I am working on the design of a tool in ABS, polycarbonate and carbon fiber at the moment, so made the mistake.

    Some nylons don't have good adhesion, either, but I tested this Krylon on several plastics before using it on a factory Rem 700 stock, by spraying it on a PPE recycling bin, inside and out, ABS and PVC pipe. All were very smooth, so I roughed them up with 000 steel wool. The bin got a lot of the usual rough use. I put the pieces of pipe in my car and handled them now and again while driving. There are some paints made for painting all kinds of plastics, as used on the interiors of automobiles, but require special volume air sprayers and all that, for long production runs.

    Plastics like PPE are "oily" because they have a mold release agent in them. If you wash the part with some dish washing detergent, use a scouring pad to rough it up a little at the same time.

    If you are careful, you can sweat the release agent out of plastic with rapid movement of a propane torch. Have someone standing by, ready to wipe it off with a rag and some 90% alcohol. Do about 1/4 of the stock at a time, because you only have about 30 seconds to wipe it off. When you see it looking wet, that is the oily release sweating out, so keep moving the torch . Turn the torch OFF, before opening a container of alcohol or spraying it - it is very flammable. Again, best to practice this on a piece of junk PPE like a recycling tub or flower pot. Be CAREFUL!!!

  7. #7
    Interesting, when copolymer (e) guess it depends on the grade. Thousands of different materials available.
    Thankfully I have no thermoplastics to paint at the moment. In the past I was more involved in ultra high filled polymers based on ceramics/waxes/PE used for injection moulding.

  8. #8
    Here are some camo templates.

    The Krylon paint is made for plastic lawn furniture, so holds up well.

    I found this coyote hunter, who painted everything on his T3 with Krylon, only prep was washing the stock.
    How to Camo Paint Your Rifle and Make it Look Great - Predators - Predator Wild

    Here is a T3 paint job I found, painted with Rustoleum brand paint for outdoor plastics:
    Spray Painting Synthetic Tikka Stock -
    Last edited by Southern; 05-05-2014 at 18:19.

  9. #9
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    I had a go myself and I am pretty pleased with the finish; very hard wearing and decent looking, just needs a secondary colour putting over the top. I'm out stalking a lot currently that's why a masked the rifle rather than dropping it out the stock as I can't spare the time to re-zero.

  10. #10
    I recently got mine hydro dipped in autumn woodland camo. I am very pleased with the way it turned out and much prefer it to the standard black.
    The stock was firstly sprayed with a primer, then sprayed with a pale yellow base coat, then hydro dipped to apply the patterned transfer, then dried and finally sealed with four coats of clear matte lacquer. Cost was 85.
    Last edited by paultap; 07-05-2014 at 00:52.

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