Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 40

Thread: pressure bedding

  1. #1

    pressure bedding

    Hi i have a parker hale 1100 lwt in 308. Following on from my thread regarding inconsistency i wonder if having taken the action from the stock and replacing it has caused the problem.

    I understand that the 1100 was made with pressure from the end of the stock directly onto the barrel. How much pressure should there be here. I have just got an air rifle out for the morning picked the 308 up and noticed movement between the stock end and barrel.

    Im not going to go down the route of fully floating the barrel as ive heard this just makes for more inaccuracy in these rifles

    I await your wisdom

    Regards pete

  2. #2
    Trying to bed a wood stock to apply consistant pressure on the barrel is a waste of time. If you want to maintain a constant amount you will need to resort to a synthetic. I have had luck in the past with two screws set in the tip of the forend at about 90 degress from each other once the stock was bedded. they can be adjusted to apply as much pressure on the barrel as you want.


  3. #3
    Pressure bedding only works if you shoot the rifle off the same position every time. If one rests the rifle on the forend, the resting pressure will be added to the pressure on the barrel. In my opinion pressure bedding might be something for a target rifle which is always shot off the same rest or an experienced hunter who knows the flaw and can hold the rifle the same way as when zeroed.
    Hunters who use pressure bedded rifles usually tell other hunters not to shoot live animals at longer ranges...wonder why..

  4. #4

    Thought I would share my experience with my rifle.

    I have a Parker Hale 1200 (I am led to believe) in 308. It shot okay from the start 1moa I fully free floated the barrel - apart from the first 3 inched in-front of the recoil lug.

    It has shot sub 1/2 moa groups with home loads and has been an accurate rifle. However as mentioned above it is hold sensitive, Point of impact will change with position. My general rule with shooting it is to grip or rest it on sticks under the scope objective bell. - The same place. The stock does flex further down the stock so this is where I consistently hold the gun.

    Removing the stock and putting it back should not effect the accuracy it can effect the POI (your zero) In my opinion.

  5. #5
    I've an older parker hale, and have owned several in the past also and I think free floating is a bit hit and miss with these. I find the best procedure to be the following:

    1) Free float the barrel and remove all the pressure from the forend, fully bed the action and see if it shoots straight, if it does - sorted. If not then proceed...

    2) Bed the last 2" or so of the forend - basically replacing the old wood pressure tip with devcon or whatever you choose. When replacing the action into the stock with your uncured bedding in place you will need to hang the rifle upside down. Secure a 0.5kg weight from the tip of the barrel (I gaffa taped a shopping bag with half a bag of sugar in it!). Tighten the action in fully. Allow to fully cure, take out and replace action tightly and see if it shoots straight. If it doesn't repeat but with 100g or so more weight on the barrel and repeat up to about 750g.

    With all the parker hales I've tried this on, if it doesn't shoot well free floated then this has done the trick. Marcbo is right to *some* extent in that wood stocks would swell/shrink and so pressure varies, but then in an older rifle I find this doesn't have any effect as the wood should be pretty stable. It helps to make sure it is very, very well sealed.

    I've got a dickson parker hale in .270 with a devcon pressure tip looking at me now - and I have never ever had to correct wandering zero since I did it several years ago. It shoots very, very tight groups indeed. The groups are the same from bipod, sandbag, and rested at any point along the stock so the idea that resting on the forend somehow knocks it out doesn't hold true in my experience. Shoots very well freehand also. I know - I've exhaustively tried.

    Digs - if yours is free floated why is it hold sensitive? Are you sure this isn't shooter position?
    Last edited by jcf1; 17-05-2014 at 11:43.

  6. #6
    I would hazard a guess that the rifle has not been re-assembled correctly. Hence the problem.

  7. #7
    Thanks for the replies. Rebedding is someting i will look into.

    Brit when you say it hasnt been reassembled properly is there a correct sequense for doing it, screw tightness etc

    Regards pete

  8. #8
    As I understand it the action is put in making sure the recoil lug is against the recoil bolt then the front screw is tightened. The rear, tang, screw in done up but only nipped up it does not need to be tightened like the front one. I seem to recall this was explained in the American "NRA Gun Smithing guide". Well it has worked for me.

  9. #9
    Thanks for that brit.

    Heres a thought. If i wanted to try more pressure from the fore end could i use some insulation tape as a tempery bedding to see if it helps

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by pj1 View Post
    Thanks for that brit.

    Heres a thought. If i wanted to try more pressure from the fore end could i use some insulation tape as a tempery bedding to see if it helps
    Glazed business cards work well for this. My P-H 1200 Super in 7.92mm that I acquired new still in it's box from York Guns had rather poor inletting and didn't group as one would expect. According to the adverts years back in Guns Review these were made as a special export order and some over runs were sold to the trade. Judging by the poor inletting I feel this was a quality control reject. Anyway I tried using some compound to tighten up the bedding but in a rush due to lack of time put too much compound under the action and free floated the barrel. On testing at Bisley on Short Siberia we found that the rifle now shot 8"+ patterns. One could really not call them groups.

    So I cut a glazed business card up and added it under the barrel just short of the Rosewood tip and continued adding card until the group had shrunk to a normal acceptable size. Then the rifle was sent to Bob Harvey who bedded it to have this pressure. Using Privi Partisen 196 SP ammunition the rifle shot groups inline with P-H's normal acceptance standard. The bedding work is not noticeable to the eye unless one removes the stock.

    Of course this was quite some time back as the testing at Bisley was before my relocating North. It took a while to find someone who was able to do the bedding job using the factory Pressure Point bedding method. Some well know "Gunsmiths" were simply not interested, one whom is known on these very forums told me over the phone that the barrel was shot out without even seeing the rifle and suggested fitting a take off Remington barrel. Even when I explained that the rifle had only just come out of it's original box and had not been fired except for proof so simply could not be "shot out" he then changed the "tune" slightly and said it would have to be bore scoped ...................................... well yes I can understand inspecting for damage as it had been stored in a warehouse for many years so rust could be a possibility. He then stated that only a free floatig barrel would ever shot any acceptable groups and that he only ever free floated them. When questioned further it became clear that he had not idea how to actually bed a rifle any other way he also could not answer as why I should pay to have a probably inferior button rifled Remington barrel that had been taken off so that a decent quality barrel could be fitted and why I would want someone discarded barrel on my new rifle. Of course he could not answer.

    Funnily enough a few years later I had a PM discussion with Redmist about bedding and although he prefers to free float when it was explained what I wanted and why, restoration really, he understood. The bedding on the P-H 1200C could do with restoration as it has compressed slightly probably to being over tightened. The intention was to get him to do this for me but of course events got in the way. In truth the 1200C would probably benefit from a new barrel as the bore is heat cracked for about half it's length as Mr Kershaw discovered with his bore scope.

    But I digress many promote free Floating as it's easy to do, if one does not rush it that is pressure point bedding is harder and it seems many simply do not understand the hows and whys. In an old book there is an article on Elmer Keith having a new rifle made and it explains just how the stocker set up the pressure point bedding in the fine walnut stock. of course this was so far back the stock would have been Air Dried Walnut and not the poorer, cheaper Kiln Dried stuff we get today. The stocker used a "Sweeny Collimeter" to set the pressure point as I recall. I would check but not all the books were returned so am unsure as to if I still have the book now.

Similar Threads

  1. A Question of pressure.
    By Andy7mm in forum Ammunition, Reloading & Ballistics
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 16-03-2013, 11:28
  2. Pressure shot
    By www.yorkshireroestalking. in forum Other Shooting & Keepering
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 10-09-2011, 10:17
  3. no pressure then
    By Scots_stalker in forum Training and Qualifications
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 30-08-2011, 12:52
  4. Reloading: Pressure By Any Other Name...
    By jcampbellsmith in forum Ammunition, Reloading & Ballistics
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 25-08-2011, 17:13
  5. Possible pressure sign
    By chickenman in forum Ammunition, Reloading & Ballistics
    Replies: 54
    Last Post: 14-12-2010, 01:37

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts