Parallax Adjustment

novice

Well-Known Member
A question for those using scopes with parallax adjustment.

How often do you have to alter the parallax setting? Every shot? Given that most scopes are set to be parallax free at about 100m, I was wondering whether in reality most people leave the parallax at 100m and simply alter the magnification between shots.

Also, does an extra parallax adjustment turret offer any real advantage over a parallax adjustment ring on the front objective bell?

Novice
 
To answer your second question first - my view is that side parallax is simpler and quicker to adjust than the AO version - and with less movement, which may or may not be critical.

As to the first, I find I adjust it often (a) on longer shots and (b) with night vision - in both instances the image can be sharpened considerably. The can be some interaction with magnification too, so the two things work hand in hand. It really shows its value with the higher magnifications (greater than 12).
 


Parallax adjustment is not just about focussing. It is an additional benefit to initially correcting the parallax.

This video explains this in good detail.
 
Agreed - it is the act of focussing that removes the parallax error that can be created by the diffraction through the lenses at longer range/higher magnification. I was responding more in the vein of the OP's post regarding parallax free - one of the most obvious manifestations of the error is a blurred picture (the cross hairs moving on target as you move your head being the other)
 
Good question and its a real pain when shooting foxs at night. My Leupold Mk 4 has very precise P/A adjustment and on x14 sharply snaps into focus. Normally on x10 set it at about 150yds so its OK but if I was using a scopre at night for lamping I would use a non P/A scope which are infact set to be P/A free at 100yds.

All brands can be quite different as to how precise the P/A is and generally as mag goes up then P/A is more imprtant.

If you ever get to the MGF go and watch the field target guys as they use very high mag scopes with P/A which they use for precise range measurement.

D
 
As Cyres says with his Leupold, some 'scopes can be very focus fussy and not give a lot of leaway.

For example my Swaro Z6i 2.5-15x56 was a bit like that in comparison to my Zeiss 6-24x56 when foxing.. the Zeiss is more forgiving and has a bigger turret meaning you have more control over the speed of change, certainly with gloves on.

I tend to set it between 100/150m and leave it at that....... much the same with the Drone Pro 10x night vision. Unlike the doublered Yukon Photon I had... that would go out of focus just with a slight headshift for me. :confused:

Having said that, the guy who bought the Swaro is knocking 'em down like a good 'un.

Fizz
:cool:
 
Agreed - it is the act of focussing that removes the parallax error that can be created by the diffraction through the lenses at longer range/higher magnification. I was responding more in the vein of the OP's post regarding parallax free - one of the most obvious manifestations of the error is a blurred picture (the cross hairs moving on target as you move your head being the other)

I was not having a dig at you, you know that mate ;)
 
A question for those using scopes with parallax adjustment.

How often do you have to alter the parallax setting? Every shot? Given that most scopes are set to be parallax free at about 100m, I was wondering whether in reality most people leave the parallax at 100m and simply alter the magnification between shots.

Also, does an extra parallax adjustment turret offer any real advantage over a parallax adjustment ring on the front objective bell?

Novice

Set it for the range you normally shoot at.~Muir
 
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