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Thread: Application of heat to threadlocked muzzlebreak

  1. #1

    Application of heat to threadlocked muzzlebreak


    I need to remove a muzzlebreak that's been attached using a small bead of Loctite 278 threadlock. Loctite claim that half strength can be achieved at around 200 deg C, or complete loss of bond strength at 350 deg C.

    Just wondering if localised heating of the muzzle break, and the muzzle itself, to 200C, could cause damage to the barrel structure, or strength? I'm guessing that a barrel can easily exceed 200 deg if shot rapidly with sufficient number of rounds (especially if used with a moderator), so I don't think the temperature is an issue, just maybe the uneven heating?

    Any expert advice welcome,


  2. #2
    Why not insert a rod through the holes in the brake and simply torque it off ? I've never come across any loctite that can't be undone with a bit of leverage.

    P.S.... Im no expert in these things !!



  3. #3
    Torquing blue (or green) loctite is one thing; red is quite another.

    I think a barrel is normally tempered at around 540C, so I can't imagine 200 - 300C doing anything bad to it.


  4. #4
    I might try shooting the barrel until it gets too hot to touch, but is heated fairly uniformly, then apply additional localised heat to the brake, along with a longer rod in the brake holes, and give it a whack. Maybe I'm worrying about nothing, I just remembered that on some US made AR15 type rifles made during their assault rifle ban era, they welded the muzzle brakes on, so that's well over 1000 deg C, and that process didn't seem to destroy the barrel!

  5. #5
    Just heat it up and undo it. If it won't undo when very warm, get it hotter, you'll need to get the barrel seriously hot to do any harm.
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  6. #6
    Distinguished Member Ronin's Avatar
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    Oct 2014
    Lancs / Cumbria Border
    Apply heat gently and evenly holding the barrel in a protected vice jaw.

    If the brake has vents spaced evenly you could put a lever through to apply pressure or use grips (the locking kind) with the brake protected with brass strip.

    Apply enough heat to get the loctite "bubble" - you'll see a bubble and a puff of smoke at that point the loctite should be weak enough to break the joint..

    Thats what I would do anyway.

  7. #7
    As previous, apply heat in increasing amounts evenly, turn off using a small drill bit passed through holes in brake, seeemplles.
    (The Unspeakable In Pursuit Of The Uneatable.) " If I can help, I will help!." Former S.A.C.S. member!

  8. #8
    Try the 200 degrees first by immersing the muzzle in boiling water. Then grip the barrel, not the stock, in one gloved hand and the MB in the other and and twist off.

    If that fails, use a butane cigarette lighter applied right to the joint, rotating the muzzle, until you see the Loctite soften. That little flame won't risk overheating. Don't use a propane torch or such.

  9. #9
    Secure barrel in soft jaws - Get a means of applying unscrewing torque to the brake (rod, spanner or grips). - Heat with a hot air gun only pointed at the brake - (not the barrel) whilst applying firm unscrewing torque - All heat is then going into the loctited joint before it gets to the barrel. As soon as the Loctite softens the brake will unscrew. Use a wire brush to clean off old Loctite residue - Job done!
    Have fun & be bold. Remember use brute force with intelligence & finesse!


  10. #10
    by coincidence my .222 thread protector which takes the form of the original foresight and barrel piece became stuck on!
    had to leak some WD40 into the joint and crack it off with a spanner!!

    tiniest bit of rust had formed on the last thread

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