This topic has been covered in quite a few earlier threads, for some technical reason (I've long since forgotten) peculiar to the Blaser neck sizing doesn't give the same benefits as it does to a conventional B/A.
I don't own a Blaser but I have owned a lot of non-bolt guns and if they don't have a bolt that cams the cartridge into the chamber, I FL resize. It's pretty much standard practice with single shots, straight pulls, autos and lever guns.
You won't gain much neck sizing anyhow. If you read Lyman's new 49th reloading manual they indicate that they don't recommend neck sizing any more and promote FL resizing for all loads. I forgot how they worded it exactly, but basically said that the benefits of FL resizing outweighed those of neck sizing. I know that accuracy doesn't suffer. I FL resize all my target and hunting loads these days and accuracy is superb and consistent.~Muir
can anyone please enlighten me as to reloading for a straight pull Blaser.
Ive heard you have to always full length resize but can't see why? Thoughts please and could we please stick to the question.
However it's worded I also believe F/L resizing is the way forward. Having done both over many years, I'm sure if one determines the true headspace dimension correctly and sets their full length die to produce +/- .001" of that dimension, with all other things equal relative to the brass i.e. age/times fired/anneald etc etc being used, you will make your reloaded ammunition workable & as good as it gets. Especially if you finish it off with a 'factory crimp'. ATB
I run my fired cases through the chamber....... ex-.22-250, 2x.243's and 7mm RemMag - any that feel tight get a full-length otherwise they just get a neck-size dipped in locksmiths graphite in a little pot full of No7 lead shot.
Works for me..... same with my turn-bolt .17Rem and .20Prac too.
Cheers
Fizz