A shooting seat to go on top of an aluminium ladder

Bavarianbrit

Well-Known Member
Just two pics to show my build progress.
A Bavarian beer garden stool that has been recycled ( it was bent slightly from customers jumping up and down on it. I found it in the local recycling yard along with an exercise frame cross brace) combined the two and here it is, very stable it is too and the drilling does not waver when I aimed it at a daffodil head.
shooting seat1.JPGshooting seat2.JPG
All my new retirement projects.
My next project is building a high seat frame made up from steel plasterboarding U sections to make it easily a "by one man transportable unit" possibly with BMX cycle wheels at the bottom, on CAD it works out at 9.5kg.
As an ex car body designer I am using those principles
Lets wait and see if it works.
Martin
 
Just two pics to show my build progress.
A Bavarian beer garden stool that has been recycled ( it was bent slightly from customers jumping up and down on it. I found it in the local recycling yard along with an exercise frame cross brace) combined the two and here it is, very stable it is too and the drilling does not waver when I aimed it at a daffodil head.
View attachment 69886View attachment 69887
All my new retirement projects.
My next project is building a high seat frame made up from steel plasterboarding U sections to make it easily a "by one man transportable unit" possibly with BMX cycle wheels at the bottom, on CAD it works out at 9.5kg.
As an ex car body designer I am using those principles
Lets wait and see if it works.
Martin

Looks like it will work, I have made several using builders ladders. The challenge is to find the right tree in the right spot with out too much in the way!

Tim.243
 
Just two pics to show my build progress.
A Bavarian beer garden stool that has been recycled ( it was bent slightly from customers jumping up and down on it. I found it in the local recycling yard along with an exercise frame cross brace) combined the two and here it is, very stable it is too and the drilling does not waver when I aimed it at a daffodil head.
View attachment 69886View attachment 69887
All my new retirement projects.
My next project is building a high seat frame made up from steel plasterboarding U sections to make it easily a "by one man transportable unit" possibly with BMX cycle wheels at the bottom, on CAD it works out at 9.5kg.
As an ex car body designer I am using those principles
Lets wait and see if it works.
Martin

If you worked for Rover I wouldn't pin your hopes on it ;)
 
Every car maker except rover & Opel cheeky runt. I do know my business.

As a panel beater/painter I would love to meet the twit who designed weld on hinges with the stupid system of a roll pin you had to beat out and in when taking off a door after it was painted!!


Any way small rant over..lol

A couple of pictures to get you design brain back in gear...


010_zps36ade6c1.jpg
005_zpsdkpbvohj.jpg
009_zpsc215c4fd.jpg
 
All the carmakers want to lower costs, so because the doors are painted off the car then get added to the body on assembly the line some bright spark came up with that idea of rollpins to speed up the assembly process, it was not me, I did the Jensen Interceptor front end (it morphed later into the Aston Martin Lagonda when Jensen cars went down) also the original Audi quattro coupe gear shift system & console, then the Cayenne 2002, Polo 2007 Audi A3 2012 & Disco 405 2012 and Tata indicar cockpits amongst others.
Happy to have left it all behind me now.

Try this web page
leitersitz - Google-Suche

Martin
BTW I just christened the seat this afternoon with a young fox using the seat as a ground blind, was super stable to shoot from.
 
Last edited:
I have just finished the 1.5 metre high stand that I described earlier to put the seat on top of. It has proven out to be as stiff as a teenager on viagra and the seat weighs in at around 6kg.
I am well happy with the result but bushed as it was a lot of bending working to make it.
A picture of it I will post up later.
Here are the pics it weighs in at 18kg
Frame.JPGframe weight.JPG
Martin
 
Last edited:
I did the Jensen Interceptor front end .

When you say "front end" do you mean the body work design or the steering/suspension/chassis type front end?

Whichever...I have to say that the Jensen Interceptor front three quarter view has always been one of my all time favourite car designs...pity the back end does not seem to photograph well...

So congratulations...respect...and all that.

Even if if you did the bits underneath that we don't see, you made the bits we do see possible!

Alan
 
When you say "front end" do you mean the body work design or the steering/suspension/chassis type front end?

Whichever...I have to say that the Jensen Interceptor front three quarter view has always been one of my all time favourite car designs...pity the back end does not seem to photograph well...

So congratulations...respect...and all that.

Even if if you did the bits underneath that we don't see, you made the bits we do see possible!

Alan
.
Front end bodywork = firewall, A-posts bonnet/hood, wheelhouse side inners
 
Well here is the finished article all painted and ready to go it weighs in at 24 kg without a ladder.
Seat bottom height is at 2.1 metres with the 4x added wooden feet.
shooting seat3.JPGshooting seat4.JPG
Now all I need are for the boar to come back.
Martin
 
Last edited:
Well a hunter came by today and asked me to make him a copy of it he was well impressed, oh dear there goes my ego into hyperdrive, maybe I am onto something as a cottage industry???
 
Why not Martin a couple of sales and yours is paid for.Quality sells itself and what looks good in a picture has impressed someone enough to want 1 .Just leave enough time to go and get the boar ,after all the seat is waiting to be christened Atb Iain
 
I have now done the drawings for making a 2.85m to bum height transportable unit without an extra seat so it is to be built as a normal freestanding high seat, my next stage is I will make one up and leave it with my pal in Freiburg who has 350 hectares revier and a high boar problem so he can evaluate the benifits (galvanised steel plus green painted = no rust long lived, light weight ca. 15kg so it is by just one man easily transportable on a suvs roof rack to respond to any particular boar damaged areas, non squeaking due to my own idea, stiff and stable as using steel section versus wood bought or cut out of the forest so it never gets rotten with age and saves time as it can be half assembled in your own garage then transported to the location for final assembly, the PETA/antis cannot half cut the thing up for it to be left as a trap to collapse with the next hunters use of it which happens here often in Germany, it can be delivered as a 3m long 15kg flat pack IKEA style for self assembly or if enough interest was shown a set of drawings could be made available for self builders as the material is worldwide easily available).
Well pleased.
Martin
 
Here it is now almost finished, the two side frames, the cross braces are ready to bolt on tomorrow then I will paint it all green.
High seat steel1.JPG
 
Well the farmers tractor made short crushing type work of it after a year in a field so I saved the seat from it and have just built up another one. I hope the placement now on a woodland edge will help it to last longer so no need to paint it like T38 tanks as they never last long enough to rust out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190525_130030.jpg
    IMG_20190525_130030.jpg
    471.3 KB · Views: 97
  • IMG_20190525_130046.jpg
    IMG_20190525_130046.jpg
    409.9 KB · Views: 97
Took the path of rather less resistance many years ago, and decided to revive the idea, now slightly modified:

129428

Pic of a high seat I cobbled together 25years ago, ably aided by the local smith; plastic school bucket seat (with drainage holes at the low point!) held in place with one strip of leather around the forward rung of the two it sits on.

Today's effort is made without any welding (sorry Tim!), but would benefit from the side 'F' pieces being welded together if you happen to have one, or a mate to do the deed.

This following one is knocked together Meccano-style, primarily because
a) I wanted an easily dismantled/constructed item, that could basically go in the back of an estate car, and
b) It's about the upper end of my mechanic-ing ability!

The original ladder iirc was about £70 back in the day, and available from B&Q; the following is an Amazon £44 jobbie, and perfectly sound (and certified) to 150Kg.

Materials used (mm)

1" box section, 4 x 1000, 2 x 800, 4 x 500
Angled brackets (offcut of angle iron,) 10x,
4 x split pins or nails, to determine shooting rail box postition
22 x Nuts and bolts, and washers to suit

129429

Step (see what he did there!) 1: this ladder is 360mm wide, so 2 holes bored either side appx 320 in, gives a centred position for your rails, though this can be varied or adjusted to suit the point where you're siting the seat, simply by drilling a few more holes; a 3mm or so hole is sufficient to fix in place (here shown using split pins), and judicious use of plastic milk carton or wedges of packing material to quieten any rattling in the space between the box section and the inside of the alloy rung. Please note, I've attached the first angle bracket, but in reality I pre-set most of these on the uprights, as you will see in the following pics;

129431

First side "F" shaped bracket attached. If you are at all able to access a welder then it's probably better to prefab these and not have the brackets, I just did this using brackets because I don't weld. My first one years ago (local smithy made) had bolts welded into the bottom side arms of the "F", which mated to the parallel supporting base bars.

129432

Seat to give you the idea, I've sourced three without the legs (thanks, kids!) for the 3 seats I'm making currently. Notice that the upright stays are drilled at 90degrees at either end, so the brackets help support the top side rails, but again, if you go the welding route then this isn't something you need to consider. A back rest of either flat bar or box sectionhelps to knit everything together, and stiffens the whole edifice a good deal, as well as supporting the small of ones back;

Back in a jiffy with the last couple pics!
 
129435

Back support/stay in place (250mm up the 500mm box section;

129436

Foam cut into 1 x 1000 and 2 x 500mm (i.e. From 1 x2m length, 28mm internal diameter and 13mm thick. You should be able to see some green plastic packing/wedges in between the alloy rung and the support bar where they meet.

Basically, undoing three bolts and removing two of the split pins will enable me to sufficiently dismantle the whole affair to move it to wherever it is to be sited. Didn't paint the boxes on my last ones 25 years ago, the surface rust blends in reasonably.

Relatively cheap, and fairly versatile. At the back of the ladder you can bolt on a plate either side to attach back legs if you want to make it a free standing unit. I'm sure you can figure out the basic idea from the last post first image. There is a bit of flexibility with the height of the front rail, depending on how you set the brackets; you may wish to leave one on a bolt without nut, so it can be swung out of the way for ease of access/egress. Dimensions can also be altered to suit the individual!
 
Back
Top