Chainsaw pros, advice please

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Malxwal

Malxwal

Well-Known Member
In the market for a decent chainsaw, tired of cheap stuff. Locally, we have a Husqvarna service centre, so I pretty much am settled on that make.
I'm felling softwood for my own use and processing, some of which have bases up to about 24".
Looking at the Husqvarna 545 Mark II, but would appreciate any advice, pros and cons on this choice, and indeed any reason why I perhaps shouldn't go Husky .
Cheers
Malc
 
Good choice Malc. I have the mk1 545 with 13" bar as a private saw. At work we run 550/560/562xpg, all run on Aspen premix. 545 should be fine with 15" bar and a wee bit cheaper than 550.
 
FWIW I always used to be a Stihl fan, however in the last 10 yrs have converted to Husqvarna. From climbing top handles to light/medium groundsaws. Still have an 020T and a 660 though. Just think Huskies are more ergonomic and prefer the motor characteristics. Also have dealers for both nearby.
 
The new 550 is meant to be an exce!!ent saw,
was in an agri dealers the nite on way hame and there 550s come with there new X cut chain.
The saw should absolutely fly with that thin chain on, but I imagine it might blunt easier/quickier and the bars will be quite fragile and easily bent so if u often get ur bar nipped might be better with a standard 325 chain/bar combo.
I've got a couple off smaller saws running 3/8 Pico/low profile which is a similar size and they cut well when sharp and kept sharp.

I think it sometimes depends on the exact model in the Stihl Vs husky debate, I think some huskys are over powered for their size, great to work with can go bang, stinks are a bit slower but last a lot longer.

Which ever saw u buy don't scrimp on a decent 2 stroke mix
 
Any advice on what a decent 2 stroke mix constitutes appreciated. I'm guilty of just using fresh petrol with an approximate splash of 2 stroke oil through it.
And aye, being an amateur, I get the bar nipped frequently, so will stick to normal stuff I've got the hang of sharpening. I've been using a Mitox with a narrow chain on it, and it does cut well, with a dress up every fill.
 
I’m in the same boat as you, I was ready to buy a 550xp or 560xp untill I spoke to a dealer and his advice was to not get one of them unless you are using it most days and it’s not sat idling for to long or not used for couple days then sat in shed for weeks as the electronics would be ok but can sometimes go out of sync. He recommended a 455 rancher.
 
I’m a massive xo fan to be fair!over the years I’ve had 7-8 new xp’s And I’ve never had a issue with timing going out of sync but all of the new saws arnt as hardy as the older ones I must say!the only bit of advice on working a saw I give is when you are cutting make it work hard as low revs and not using it’s full potential and power will do more harm than good(a old professional tree felled told me that)well he actually said Rev the tits off it as it’s made to be worked flat out not faffing about.
 
If you could pick up a decent Stihl MS341 it would be ideal for what you’re wanting, they’re pre electronic everything, last forever, nicely balanced with a 15” bar with plenty of power, all bits can be bought online so not too much issue with having a local dealer
 
Use 560xp cuts great starts no problem has sometimes been sat for 3 months no problem starting or any rough running guess must be lucky but have 550xp mkii and it has been the same get an xp and let it rip happy cutting
 
don't overlook the dolmar saws, we had one on loan all winter, couldn't fault it, the tech might be a little dated compared to the very latest example, but sometimes simple and reliable will get the job done when the latest self tuning complicated masterpiece has gone south.

maybe a ps460 or ps510 comes with 16",18" bar but will pull a 20" with ease.
 
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I have to admit I'm still running quite a few 3 series, which are proper saws with no new fangled electrics.
Now wishing I bought more, still got a new 372 sitting up in the cupboard, be 1 of the last made.

In fact I've just got my old favourite back from chainsaw mechanic, an old 254xp, sat on my bench for years needing fixed. Looking forward to giveing it some abuse

If u can find any decent 3 series possibly a better buy, 346xp or 353.
Don't know much about the 4 series more a farmers saw but that might very wel suit u??

For infrequent use u might be better off running them on Aspen, already mixed and doesn't go off, also no smokey fumes.
U really do want to get ur mixes right with 2 stroke, I was during with a load once and forgot to put the 2nd measurement off oil in and seized his 550, althou they did manage to get it going again.
Really worth getting the mix right, so easy too. I bought 1 of those Stihl 1 litre bottle with added on measurer, bloody brillant and so easy.
If u stick on 2 stroke and know ur saw won't be used for ages, either try and run saw dry or pour petrol out tank and start and run it. Always best to store saws dry
 
I had a shot of a Husky 353 off my pal as my Mitox was playing silly beggars, that was what convinced me to buy a grown ups saw. Perhaps a decent used saw on older tech would be worth considering. Same as most machinery, simple is easier to fix.
 
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As country boy says run it on aspen (easy to deal with, no bad mixes and doesn’t go off, but does cost more - unless you count up the fouled plugs, carbs and rotted fuel lines from ‘wet’ stored saws). If you have to buy new go 550 mk2. Cracking saw for shedding. If you can get a good preloved, 346/349 silver side. Cracking saws that can be tuned with a screwdriver not a laptop. Keep the bar shorter, chain sharp and the rakers down a touch!
 
I run a Husqvarna 550xpg on aspen fuel for my own firewood processing and it’s brilliant, heaps of power, comfortable to use and 100% reliable.
Aspen fuel is well worth the extra cost especially if you are using your saw infrequently.
 
Aye I've still got a couple off 353s running, bloody great saws.
Been using 13" bars recently when the timber suits and makes a great light saw even nicer to handle.

seemingly u can still buy new 353 from USA, it's that old gem of EU emissions is the problem. Mibee look at importing 1, always meant to look into it myself

Any extra cost in Aspen will be tiny really esp when not getting used that much
 
The rotting fuel pipe, reckon that's whats bugging the Mitox. Runs fine but loses prime when you stop it. Leave it to sit for a while and it seems to self bleed...
 
I have been using the same Husky for 20 years. Serviced every year. Sooner sell the wife than my saw.
Tusker
 
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